Thread: Starter Grind: Flex plate Tooth / Starter or Battery?

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Hey,

So I have a '74 small block in my Scout II and lately it's occasionally started to make a horrific grinding noise for a few moments when I go to start it.

It does not happen every time, and some times is more severe than others, even when the engine is warm.

I am scared that some teeth may be missing off the flex plate, the starter was loose for a while and it had a few hard starts until I tightened it back up again. Is there any way to see without dropping the transmission?

What do you guys think it could be?

Thanks

If you don't have the support strap that goes from the starter to the block the starter will loosen up on occasion. You could have damaged teeth on the flywheel/flexplate and the bendix.

Is there any chance its just damaged teeth on the bendix and not the flexplate?

The only way to know for sure is to pull the starter and to look on the bright side there might be no damage to either and I hope that's what you find. If you don't have the starter brace I would seriously consider getting one.

At least make sure that the starter bolts are the correct ones-they should have a knurled section where they join starter to block for positive alignment------
also drop the flywheel lower cover and look at teeth-you'll need to rotate engine to see all of them so suggest that you mark the ones you can see and then turn engine to look at unmarked teeth and repeat as necessary til you've seen them all (plus the ones on starter)

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

At least make sure that the starter bolts are the correct ones-they should have a knurled section where they join starter to block for positive alignment------
also drop the flywheel lower cover and look at teeth-you'll need to rotate engine to see all of them so suggest that you mark the ones you can see and then turn engine to look at unmarked teeth and repeat as necessary til you've seen them all (plus the ones on starter)

Thanks guys, I'll open it up and see whats what

153 vs 168 tooth starter - ChevyTalk - FREE Restoration and Repair Help for your Chevrolet

That is just one of a whole bunch of stuff I got by "googling" "Chevy small block starter problems". Lots of reading available.

Now, when you get the starter out and examine the teeth, finding no damage, the next problem is getting it right. There are two different mounting patterns for Chevy starters, and several aftermarket starters that have "universal" fit; you already know your starter fits, so, if no damage to the teeth on the gears, make sure you have the correct bolts - new ones would be a good idea, and a set of shims, available in a blister pack at most generic auto parts stores. Since you are working upside down under the truck, keep in mind which direction things need to move when you are checking clearances and shimming; it can and does get confusing sometimes.

I prefer to remove the solenoid from the starter to make it easier to engage the gear to the flywheel for checking; bolt the starter up snug with the new bolts, engage the starter gear into the flywheel, and using a number one paper clip that has been straightened out to an "L", check the clearance between the drive gear and the flywheel at the sides and tip of the gear teeth, and add or adjust shims until it is right - it can get to be a pain in the butt, but it is what is needed.

Here is a thing I found on a search that describes the shimming process. In it, he recommends a clearance of .020, and if you have an .020 wire feeler gauge, that is fine; I never had one, and found that a number one paper clip, wire diameter is .033, worked fine.

Chevy: starter clearance to flywheel and what..small block

Oh yeah, find a starter to block support bracket - pretty much a must have thing.

Go digging on "the net", there is a lot of info if you look hard enough.

Good luck.

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