Printable View
Hi guys !
I'm replacing dome off my none excistion radiator joses but need some help.
I cacan't figure out what size the hose that goes from the radiator to the recovery car/tank ?
This hose:
http://kandtmotors.com/wp-content/up...PHOTO-3253.jpg
Does anyone now that size ? :)
Kind regards
Assuming it is for your '73 Impala, it should be 1/4" (6.35 mm) inside diameter.
Amazing! Do you have some kind of charts, or is it just something you know ? :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
And its for the Impala :-)
No charts, but 50 years working on cars as a hobby. Older cars generally have the same size hose for that application. To be sure, I checked spare hose in my garage. There's a possibility it could be 5/16 also. That's the standard universal size sold in our auto supply stores. Can't you measure the OD of the parts?
Thanks alot Henry !Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
I have order one of each now.
Have a nice day :)
Hi again
I simply loves this forum, it's fantastic for a new guy like me, there know close to nothing about small block's :)
I therefore got a new question :)
I want to afterinstall a water temp. gauge, and a oil pressure gauge. Both of the sensor's come with a 1/8" npt.
Can i mount those straigt in the block? I want to mount the water sensor above the sparkplugs on the drivers side, and the oil pressure below the distributer.
Do i need some kind of adapter, and what size ? :)
The block is a #3970014 if it tells any of you something :)
I think of adapter like those:
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet.../9848/image/3/
Kind regards, and have a nice day :)
Your engine is a relatively low horsepower 350 Chevy small block. Check THIS WEBSITE
You will get different opinions about the location of the water temperature sensor. I prefer the intake manifold, and have been doing it this way for 40 years. Read THIS ARTICLE and see what you think.
I have always installed the oil pressure gauge sender in the block on the driver's side (LH drive cars) just above the oil filter. Others like the port by the distributor. In my opinion, either will work.
I prefer AutoMeter gauges, but that's just me. They usually come with 1/8 NPT (National Pipe Thread) and an adapter from 1/8 to 1/4 NPT. The adapters in your link don't look right to me. NPT fittings don't have washers because the threads are tapered and tighten by compression.
Hi Henry ( or Jack?)
Thanks for the quick reply! Yes, i have read a lot of different opinions regards the location. My intake manifold doesn't seemed to have an option for the install, so i think placing it here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1312333319
I have already order some gauges, but the only come with a 1/8 NPT sensor, and no fittings/adapter. Is there any place i cant see the bolt size i need? - Without disassembly my own? I prefer have all the thing before getting started :)
I will try to find the oil location on the drivers side, can i find it when the motor is in the car? :) And, maybe a dumb question, does all the oil run out when i remove the bolt?
I've never mounted an oil pressure gauge by the distributor or a water temp gauge in the cylinder head, so I'm going to have to pass you on to someone with more experience for the rest of your answers.
The location above the oil filter is 1/4 NPT, I believe, so you would need a 1/8 to 1/4 adapter. Check THIS WEBSITE Depending on clearances, you may need to use an elbow or other miscellaneous fittings. The distributor location may be best for you.
Oh, and yes, oil will drain if you pull the plug above the filter.
It is Jack, by the way. The "Henry Rifle" screen name is a reference to my great-great grandfather who was a soldier in the 7th Illinois Infantry during our Civil War. Many of his compatriots carried Henry lever-action repeating rifles.
Hi again
I just wrote to Jegs and they told me it's a 3/8 bolt in the cylinder head, i try buy an adapter :)
Do i need some kind of Fibre washer/gasket when mounting? Or is it not necessary?
Thanks for the clarification with the oil drain, i will then mount the pressure gauge at the same time as a service/oil change :)
I thought about the 1860 Henry Rifle when i saw the screen name - Funny !
Have a nice day Jack, and thanks for all the help :)
It's not a bolt - it's 3/8 NPT. Summit has them on THIS WEB PAGE
You also need a pipe thread sealant. THIS WILL WORK or you can use teflon tape. If you use the teflon tape, just don't use too much. Other folks will tell you not to use it, but I've never had a problem with it.
Hi Jack
I though an bolt an NPT was the same, in my world everything you can use a wrench on its a bolt - As i said, i'm new at this :)
I got some teflon tape somewhere, can i also use regular sealant i use when doing the plumbing under the kitchensink?
Not everything you can put a wrench on is a bolt. There are hundreds of types of nuts, bolts, fittings, etc., that take a wrench. I would not use standard plumbing sealant on an engine. Check THIS WEB PAGE for what I use.
NPT = National Pipe Thread; it is a tapered thread meant to be "self sealing", meaning that the deeper it turns into it's opposite fitting, the tighter it gets. However, in practice, we always use an application appropriate thread sealer on pipe threads. The sealer that Jack referred you to will work fine on both sending units. Here is a Wikipedia treatise on NPT:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread
If it worked, I have attached a picture of an Edelbrock Small Block Chevy intake manifold. In the picture, on the left end of the manifold is the thermostat housing, and slightly below and to the left of that is a small hole at the end of a runner that goes to the thermostat housing; that is where the temperature sending unit goes, and you will need the correct NPT to NPT adapter bushing to fit it in there. The next picture is what the adapter bushing will look like, and the correct size will be 1/2 inch male NPT to 1/8 inch female NPT. One thing to remember when installing these sending units is that hey operate by grounding through the place they are screwed into the engine; if you use a sealant that insulates them electrically, they will give you an incorrect reading, or no reading at all. I have always used anti-seize on them because of the dis-similar metals, and it has a metallic component in it's compound that does not cause electrical interference.
Regarding the oil pressure sender, I have most often used the 1/8 inch NPT port next to the distributor, primarily because it was usually the easier one to get to, and it didn't dribble too much oil out when the plug was removed.
I hope this information is helpful.
.
If you're not running a heater that would be a good spot for the sending unit, but normally that hole is used for the return from the heater core and the hole on the right of the thermostat housing is where the temp sending unit would go. The indentation to the right of the hole for the distributor, looking from front to rear of the manifold, is where many folks install the oil pressure sending unit which of course is in the block.
Thanks alot for all the inputs ! That helped alot :)
Now i just have to wait to get the gauges :) And the size of the radiator hose was correct, this thing is now mounted :)
Hi again guys :)
Henry Rifle & Rrumbler:
Thanks alot for the clarification - i got a long way to go :) Now i got the Gauges, now i just need time to mount them ;)
I don't have the hole right for the termostat housing, and i'm running a heater, so now way it's goes with the water pump :)
I got a new question - dumb ass hell is suppose, but I never learn unless i ask :)
I had remove my old upper radiator hose, and replace it with a new. BUT: It's still leaking a bit from the hose mounting on the radiator. It's only leaking while the engine is turned off. When i squese the hose, i can hear little "burps" from the hose, and i can se the water is comming from the hose.
What can i do? Some sealing or what? I have tighten the hose clamps - but afraid to tighten it more if i breake the plastic "neck" on the radiator.
Thanks for all our help and guides :)
Sherlock,
Hopefully you have not already deformed or cracked that plastic fitting on your radiator by over tightening. It should be snug, not too tight.
When the engine is running the thermostat controls the flow, keeping the temperature relatively constant, but when you shut down the engine the flow stops and the coolant "soaks up" all of the heat built up in the block & heads creating enough pressure difference to "burp" fluid into the coolant recovery tank, expelling any air remaining in the system too. With the proper cap, hoses and coolant recovery tank plumbing this coolant will be pulled back into the radiator when it cools.
It sounds to me like someone may have put on the wrong radiator cap at some time, or the one you have is simply not working right. I believe that the OEM cap for your Chevy was 13 pounds, but I could be wrong. A lot of radiator shops put on a 7 pound cap for older vehicles not running 195/205/210 thermostats common in the newer engines for improved efficiency. Check the numbers on the top of your cap, and if it's above 15 pounds consider buying a new cap to relieve at a lower pressure.
I've put two clamps side by side on fuel lines but never on radiator hoses but it might work - - - just thinking out loud.
Also the hose should fit snuggly on the outlet connection and if it doesn't I would recommend getting another hose that did.
Em
Hi both!
Thanks for the reply :)
Roger: Hope not, but it's the same problem i have before changing the hose. I got water running out from the engine outlet and the radiator outlet. Now, it's only at the radiator outlet.
I tried to use a little bit of sandpaper to the the roughness from the outlet.
I have to understand correctly: If there is no air in the system, it will maintaince correct pressure and not leak/burp out? I now i have a lot of air in the system right now, haven't done a prober "airing" of the system yet.
Em:
I only got one clamps right now, the hose was hard to get on, it fit perfectly :) Sorry to ask, but where is the optimal place for the clamp? Right now it's placed 1 inch from the end of the hose, i figure placing another clamp where the hose end also? - I can post a picture if it would be better for understanding?
Hope you guys understand my poorly english :)
A photo of both the radiator neck and the clamp would help. Is there a part of the radiator neck that is slightly enlarged? If so, the clamp should go right behind that.
Is this the type of clamp you're using?
http://www.carid.com/images/omix-ada...s/17115-01.jpg
Don't apologize for your English. It is infinitely better than our Danish, I'm sure. :)
your English is getting the job done and that's all that counts - - - - hang in there and these Guys will get you going, OK?
Em
Sherlock,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherlock_Holmes
Once the system goes through several heat & cool cycles it should expel all of the air in the system, leaving it filled with coolant and eliminating oxygen from the loop to minimize corrosion and maximize efficiency. This assumes that you don't let the coolant recovery tank level fall to the point that the radiator sucks air back in when cooling. You will still see the level in your coolant recovery tank rise when you shut down hot, due to the residual heat in the block increasing the system temperature, expanding the coolant volume a few percent. This is why the coolant recovery tanks have two marks, "Full Cold" and "Full Hot". When working properly you should see no leaks, hot or cold.
Hi again guys !
Nice to know you can understand my english :)
I finally got time to look, at the car today :) There is lot's of fluid in the recovery tank - does that mean my cooling system is full / working fine?
I tighten the clamp for a few days ago - maybe that has done the trick? It's still says the small burp sound whjen i squeze the hose.
Here a couple of pictures:
http://i61.tinypic.com/t0szyg.jpg
Have a nice weekend - maybe watching Tour de France? - or is it just us in the EU ? :)
Thank for the clarification - always nice with a walkthoug - you guys know alot :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I think it's safe to say that the Tour de France is not the main sports attraction in the US this weekend . . .
I was able to get your picture to come up after several attempts. Looks to me like your clamp is over tightened. The hose is wrapping up around the edge of the clamp, and oozing through the slots that act as threads. I'd say that there's a good chance your radiator neck is deformed and getting it to seal may be difficult to impossible. You could straighten it out with a well shaped internal dolly and some very light, careful hammer work, if it is indeed deformed.