350 start

assume i know nothing. i just want guidance.
i bought a 350 block for $100.
the only thing i've done to it is mount it to my engine stand.
the casting number (14016479) tells me its from '77-'79.
and by observation its a four bolt.

the block itself has a bit of rust.

i would guess the first step is to haul it to a machine shop and have it inspected and such. i would like to know what to ask for when i bring the block to them. and im hoping i didnt spend money on scrap metal.

so i want to know what my options are on different routes i could go with this block.
and with those routes, what brands to go with/avoid.

im pretty sure i dont want it to be an everyday driver; i probably want it to produce the most power i could get. i dont have a budget so far, all this will be done over a huge time period. but i want to go at the pace my wallet allows, and do it right.

yea, if you could provide me with steps, that would be appreciated.

thanks in advance.

If your just starting out on this and the block is all you have---------get rid of it-cast iron 350----and either go for maxium cubic inches (big block) or lightest weight ( ls ) if big block, use aluminum heads, if LS you can even look at supercharged-------out of late model camarp/vett

Jerry makes a good point. Consider strongly what he said.

Begin with knowing what quality of fuel is available. If this will be a daily driver where you are limited to pump gas, then the max recommended static compression ratio with iron heads is 9.5:1, with aluminum heads, 10.5:1. The static compression ratio determines the camshaft timing. If you have other fuels readily available, like E85 or ethanol or methanol or racing gasoline, then the sky is the limit on static compression ratio and cam timing. You could build a motor that is 15.0:1 and run it on the street.

Most newbies will run right out and buy a cam without knowing anything about the rest of the build because there is a certain mystique about a cam. This is a common mistake and I will counsel you.....DO NOT BUY ANYTHING until you have the entire build finalized and recorded. Building a motor is all about a COMBINATION of parts that will work well together toward a common goal, so buying anything before you have a complete build plan will paint yourself into a corner and make the build cost more when you have to change parts that do not work together.

Now, let's begin with a few questions:
1. Do you have a car or truck in mind for this motor?
2. Are you thinking daily driver 100% or weekend drag warrior 100% or maybe 90% street and 10% drag strip?
3. Understanding that a motor will cost about $10 per horsepower in the upper hp ranges, what do you see spending on this project in total and what horsepower range are you seeking? (Any kind of a decent build will include about $1000 worth of machine shop charges). If you're more interested in a tree stump build, where $1000 might have to cover the entire build, then get this book.....
How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy: David Vizard: 9781557880291: Amazon.com: Books
4. What fuel will you use?
5. Do you have tools to do this build?
6. Do you have a place to work that is out of the weather?

.

oh ok, thanks jerry and techinspector

1. i dont have a vehicle in mind
2. i think im now thinkin daily driver 100%
3. i want to see at least 350 . maybe 400hp. and i expect to spend whatever it calls for to build quality and strength.
4. i'll use pump gas.
5. i have basic tools.
6. i do have a place, in my garage.

Welcome to CHR!

In that you have not started with the build, consider Jerry’s words and think long and hard about what it takes to build an engine yourself. If you opt in – you may want to consider a 383 build.

I have posted this several times before. It’s a 383 combination that I know works very well together and makes in excess of 400 horsepower with “off-the-shelf” parts installed in a properly prepared block. The only difference is that I would definitely use a roller cam. In the past I had very good success with flat tappet cams but modern oils do not have the additives necessary to protect them so if I were to do it today, I’d go with a roller. I like the looks of the Lunati 270-278 Voodoo (but have not personally used it – others on the site may have firsthand experience with this cam) and they sell a kit with the cam and lifters (Part Number 60111SK).That means your block has to be set up for a roller cam and lifters. Rollers are a bit more money up front – but with the changes in oil, it’s worth considering as the break in with flat tappet cams is critical and a new cam can be ruined in short order if not done properly.

First and foremost – find a good machine shop where you can talk to the machinist who will be doing the work. The prep on your block is critical. The 383 can be a screamer if built correctly, but heaven help you if clearances are not correct as the whole thing will come apart and you’ll have one very expensive door stop! Make sure that the machinist has built many 383 motors. I know everyone has to learn somewhere – but you don’t want it to be your engine.

That said – have the block cleaned and tested – no need to build a block that has cracks or cannot be squared. Make sure that the machine shop understands that you’ll be building a screamer so you want to have the crank journals align bored and the decks cut to 9.003”. Have the machine shop install new cam bearings and new brass freeze plugs. Also have the machinist go over the location of all the galley plugs with you so you know where they are and that they have been properly installed. When you get the block back from the machine shop make sure you really scrub that baby down with hot soapy water. I like Dawn dish washing liquid and water straight from the bottom of the water heater. Put the block on the engine stand and dry with compressed air really well.

Paint the inside of the engine with Glyptal. Its $50 a quart from Eastwood – buy the brush on and a quart will do the job real nice. Also paint the exterior at this time too with some good high temperature block paint. I like VHT brand in the rattle can and have had good success with it over the years and their Chevy orange is spot on for color. Let everything dry real well. If you don’t have heat in your garage, you may want to opt for a small portable unit (with a sealed heating element) to assist in the drying process. I mention sealed heating unit as you never want to promote a flash-fire with a glowing element near any combustible vapors.

Rotating assemblies are really your choice. Eagle makes a kit that includes crank, flexplate, damper, rods, bearings, pistons and rings for $850. (Some here hate the Eagle components and others have had issues with Scat. I’ve used both and not had problems and believe either to be fine if you take your time and measure everything as you go.) Part number from Summit is ESP-B13005E030. It’s probably fine for your application – uses a -7cc flat top and with the deck height recommended above (9.003”) should keep you in a 10-10.5:1 compression ratio with a .041 head gasket. Have your machinist press the pistons and rods together – it’s a bit tricky if you’ve not done it a lot and you need a press.

Use lots of good assembly lube (I like Red Line). Keep your hands really clean and wipe thing as you go (remember I told you to paint the engine? Lot’s easier to keep nice and clean with fresh paint inside and out!)

I like the Milodon lubrication components and have used several variations of their pump. I used to use the 18750 high volume/high pressure pump but have reverted back to the 18756 high volume/standard pressure and it works just fine with a Milodon 30901 seven quart pan that fits stroker motors. The pan may need a bit of adjustment with Eagle rods. Use Milodon 18756 oil pump with a 18314 pickup. Use Milodon 23050 oil pump drive shaft and 41000 one piece gasket. Milodon 81300 is an oil pan stud bolt kit – worth the $20 for ease of assembly.

Top the engine off with the components listed below:
AFR 1040 195 Street Eliminator heads
Double roller timing set - Summit is fine
Edelbrock 2102 cam and lifter kit
Edelbrock 7104 Performer RPM manifold
Summit 210216 Summit Q-Jet, 750 CFM
Fel-Pro 1205 intake manifold gasket
Fel-Pro 1003 head gasket
HEI Ignition - stock Chevy is a good unit - pair with a MSD ignition

Remember that this is supposed to be fun so stop when you’re tired or if things start to become irksome. Write everything down as you go and you’ll end up with an engine diary for your build. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve references previous builds and you’ll be able to share your experiences with others who ask.

Let us know when you start the build so we can share in your project!
Glenn

Lots of good information given, and of first importance, welcome! I think that you'll be surprised to find that by the time you buy the special tools that you need to complete the build , and then pay retail prices on all of the pieces and parts that you have to have, your out of pocket cost is going to be approaching the cost of a complete engine that comes essentially ready to go, but also has a warranty along with it. I think it would be a fun project to build an engine from scratch, but I don't see it as a way to save a bunch of money. Just my $0.02, and you may want the experience.

ok so i should just get rid of this block ? maybe i'll do that then.

oh and thanks for your response glenn

Roger is spot on!

My last complete build was a few years ago and cost north of $4,500 when it was finished. I had the machine work done but I have all necessary tools for assemmbly including a half dozen special measurment instruments that are a bit on the pricy side for a single use not to mention tons of bench stock in polished stainless steel and chrome for the finish. I enjoyed the build as it was with the son of a good friend and there was some great fellowship, good food and drink involved; however, $4,500 buys a pretty decent crate motor with a good warranty.

Don't know where you're at age wise - but I loved building engines up to my late fifty's and would still be doing some if asked but I work at a bit slower pace now. Somewhere along the line those cast iron heads got heavier as well!

We're here to advise - let us know where you decide!

Regards All,
Glenn

i decided im going to ge rid of the block.

ive always wanted to build engines.

im just gonna start going to school for CNC machining if that will do anything.
and try to find work at an auto machine shop. im 24 years old.

thanks for all the advice.

That's a great choice for education! CNC is a good career and good operators are worth their weight in gold. Study hard and let that engine building dream continue to grow in your heart as you gather more skills and a bit-o-coin in the bank!

Best Regards,
Glenn

thanks glen. do you think i should get into cnc before trying to get into an auto machine shop? or do they still guide the machines manually?

I think they dovetail nicely - If you ask nice, I'd bet a local machine shop would love to give you a tour of their shop and explain what's done manually and where CNC processes are best used. I know at local 2 year colleges many of the CNC instructors are machinest that work shops and teach part time. This one could really open up for you if you do a bit of looking and ask for some advice from local machine shops as to just what they're key factors are in hiring entry level people. If you find a good shop that's looking for entry level help they may even help with your education. Are you a vet by chance? That's also a huge plus.

America really is the land of opportunity if ya just go out and find it!

Keep in otuch with us ol' guys - we'd be interested in how this will play out for you!
Glenn