Thread: few chevy smallblock questions

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As I read your list of potential changes I agree 100% there are several places where you can save some money and increase your long term reliability, IMO. When you look at converting from mechanical devices to electric the power required to generate the electricity (alternator load) is going to be at least identical to the power to drive a mechanical device direct, with no energy conversion costs. Your list:
-put an adjustable electronic fuel pump in the tank - An electric fuel pump is not going to improve efficiency or reliability, and is not necessary unless you're switching to EFI. A good, OEM mechanical pump is more reliable long term and as Firebird says it's variable with rpm. Consider that when (not if) that pump motor or rubber parts fail you're dropping the tank to replace it unless you make an access panel.
-electric cooling fan - Again, your OEM mechanical fan with a good shroud will be more than adequate, and you don't have the worry of the electric motor failing at the most inopportune time. The electric fan, close coupled to the radiator, is going to actually diminish your free air flow at highway speeds, when you don't need the fan anyway.
-oilcooler for the engine - Unless you are pulling a trailer, you likely do not need an external oil cooler. Your oil needs to get up to engine operating temperature in order to "cook off" the lighter contaminants that tend to form acids in your oil, and an oil cooler without any form of thermostatic modulating control may well prevent that, especially considering your climate.
-oilcooler for the tranny - Same as the oil cooler, unless you are pulling a trailer you don't need a tranny fluid cooler.
-use two old airfilterhouses to make one with a double intakepipe and use a flexhose to get to the grille to make some sort of ram-air system - More air to the filter is always a good thing, and the ram air doesn't hurt.
-change the front suspension for one from a chevy g30(stiffer) - Good idea, if you want the harsher ride cruising.
-use two flexhoses from bumper to the backplates of the frontbrakes to get forced cooling on the brakes. - Not a bad idea, but unless you're doing a lot of extreme braking, like long, long downhill runs where almost continuous braking is required then you probably don't need this feature. A good set of sintered pads will deal with normal braking heat.
-lose the ugly sounding glasspack cherrybomb for a flowmaster deltaflow 40series and some descent headers - Good idea, but you'll pay for the Flowmaster name....

I'm not trying to be critical of your plan, but having recently come back from a trip to NZ where I talked to a bunch of gear heads I have a new respect for the costs and delays of importing parts from the USA. You're right on target to make a plan, then work that plan to the finish, but I'd suggest that you plan based on the value of the payback you'll realize and what is truly "needed" for improved efficiency and reliability.