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Thread: 383 build for Scout
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Agree with Jerry. What's the casting number on your heads? I'll help you find pistons if I can figure the static compression ratio and to do that I need the chamber volume.

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  2. #2
    Earthquake's Avatar
    Earthquake is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Tech
    the head casting # is 14102193, They are a center bolt valve cover style head. they are unmodified NOS heads, they have a large combustion chamber but I don't have any way to measure them right now.
    I was thinking about using these...
    http://www.amazon.com/Chevy-Flat-Pis.../dp/B00D9T5Q2G
    I know Amazon is probably not the best place to buy pistons but the price seems pretty good.
    I will look into the late model block with adapter, it would be nice to use the stock roller cam parts instead of retro fit kits.

    Casey
    Last edited by Earthquake; 11-04-2014 at 10:26 PM.

  3. #3
    Earthquake's Avatar
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    As long as we are talking heads, I have a brand new Edelbrock Performer intake [part # 2101] that I got before I got the later model heads [I got a great deal on the manifold, thanks Craigslist] I have heard that I can make it fit if I make some wedge shaped washers for the center bolts, I know it sound like I am being cheap on this build but I am disabled and only make about a third what I used to and you have to cut me a break, I have been wrenching on VW's for the last 20 years and still do.

    Casey

  4. #4
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthquake View Post
    Tech
    the head casting # is 14102193, They are a center bolt valve cover style head. they are unmodified NOS heads, they have a large combustion chamber but I don't have any way to measure them right now.
    I was thinking about using these...
    http://www.amazon.com/Chevy-Flat-Pis.../dp/B00D9T5Q2G
    I know Amazon is probably not the best place to buy pistons but the price seems pretty good.
    I will look into the late model block with adapter, it would be nice to use the stock roller cam parts instead of retro fit kits.
    Casey
    Casey, the heads are 65.3cc chambers. You would need a 24cc piston dish to lower the SCR to ~9.0:1. The flat-top you linked would put the SCR at 11.00:1, way, way too much for iron heads and pump gas and you'd have to use a cam that operates between 3200 and 7000. The cam would just be coming on as the heads were signing off. Bad idea. Get rid of the heads, no matter how little money you have in them. Invest in a set of Pro-Filer 185's (70cc chambers) (under $1100) and a set of 18cc dished pistons to arrive at a ~9.20:1 SCR. Then install a cam with an intake duration of 204-210 degrees @0.050" tappet lift.

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 11-09-2014 at 08:17 PM.
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  5. #5
    Earthquake's Avatar
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    I would have thought those chambers were bigger then that, they look bigger.
    So what about this set of pistons...
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stl-h890cp30

    Let me list what parts I have so far...
    "010" 2 bolt block
    "14102193' heads
    Edelbrock Performer [2101]
    Scat Crank 9-350-3750-5700
    Rods TBD [5.7 bushed pin]
    pistons SP H890CP30's?
    Cam TBD [roller would be a +]
    Mag. Corvette Center bolt valve covers
    Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
    Stainless "block hugger" headers [2" off the collectors into a single 3" out the back]

    I know I need a lot more but I am trying to collect it a little at a time. I also know the heads are going to be a limiting factor but I would really like to use them, I will be looking for some thing better once I get it back on the road.

    Casey

  6. #6
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthquake View Post
    So what about this set of pistons...
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stl-h890cp30
    Casey
    Yep, those will work. I'd use something like a 110315-10 Howards retro hydraulic roller cam with 91164N Howards hydraulic roller tappets.
    You can order the cam from Howards with a reduced base circle to clear the 5.7 rods, or you can use a full base circle cam and Scat 25700P rods. You can also use stock Chevy rods and grind some material off at or near the bolt head to clear the cam lobes, but I don't advise grinding on rods.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-25700p/overview/
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91164n/overview/
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...5-10/overview/
    These springs would work.....
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-98212/overview/
    Estimate SCR at 9.2:1, DCR at 8.33:1
    Use a steel shim gasket to set the squish between 0.035" and 0.045". Gasket thickness added to piston deck height equals squish.

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 11-05-2014 at 07:49 PM.
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  7. #7
    Earthquake's Avatar
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    How about these pistons...
    Sealed Power H859CP30 Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons with Coated Skirt - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS
    There a bit cheaper and they list the comp ratio at 9.6 to 1 with 64cc chambers?

    I have a block question, would it be worth it to me to use studs on the mains of the "010" block [2 bolt main] for this build or just bolts? Like I said I will not be spinning this motor very high RPM's, I am buying new main and head bolts regardless so a set of stud for the bottom end is not a big deal, I am using bolts on the heads in case I ever have to change a head gasket or come up with a nice set of heads.
    Thanks for the help guys!

    Casey

  8. #8
    rdobbs is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I put studs thru-out on my 383 when I built it. Was about 475 HP and I gave
    it h#ll. Don't think I really needed the studs at this HP, but I went with them
    anyway. You should be ok with just good bolts.

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