Thread: Delayed overheating problem

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Originally Posted by 36 sedan

Keep in mind you are seeing a delayed reaction on your gauge when the thermostat opens. The temperature it reads is the elevated temperature at the sending unit (exit point) just before the coolant from the radiator reaches it (reading the heated block coolant first). There will be a temperature rise from the coolant in the block before the coolant from the radiator reaches the sending unit after the thermostat opens.

A 190° thermostat could easily read 210° at the sending unit prior to the coolant from the radiator reaching it, then settling down to normal temps which could still be 10-30° higher at the exit point of the motor than at the radiators exit (entrance to motor).

High flow thermostat;
180°
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16401/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-4364/overview/

160°
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16400/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-4363/overview/

Originally Posted by MelloYello

Sounds like you're gaining on it, Megaman. The better thermostat may help considerably also. These other members are much more knowledgeable than myself but I had just gone thru what you are dealing with and wanted to mention the things I had noticed to see if they might help. I would also like to mention here that you are a very polite, informative and appreciative poster. The special effort you take to thank and acknowledge each member that has offered a suggestion for you is very commendable.
Good Luck with your project,
meller

Originally Posted by 34_40

Mega, in the provided examples of thermostats, the 16400 and 16401 are the sleeve type, and it seems my memory of pricing is skewed!

And Meller is right, you should be commended for your approach to dealings in this forum. So thanks for that! Good Job!

Originally Posted by Whiplash23T

A lesson this cranky old bloke should take on board at times too, be polite and mindful of others. Back to the subject on hand, you mentioned checking the bottom radiator hose and decided it appeared soft, I would recommend you replace it and make sure it has the coiled spring inside. When I read your original post I thought of the hose sucking in itself straight away but the other guys have all feed you good information to try. Your Camaro is my all time favourite model above the sixties models even but then, some people say I'm sick in the head.....

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

It's actually a cheat, but you could add an oil cooler.

Summit has some nice diverter kits which mount under the oil filter, and have a thermal bypass to bypass in cold weather.

I really appreciate the kind words, I can't believe the posters online that are rude to the people that are trying to help them. But you guys truly deserve the appreciation, you're offering me advice that you could basically charge to do. It's extremely helpful, I thought I understood the drive train after rebuilding everything with my dad, but there is so many nuances that I think it's practically an art and I'm very grateful for all the help you've given me.

Update: I bought a new thermostat today, the sleeve style that the company, Mr. Gasket, makes and installed it along with a new gasket (only after entirely removing the old gasket). I then fired it up and took it for a test ride. Ironically, now it's a little too cold, haha. It stays at around 140-150 F, even after applying the old lead foot. Perhaps the old thermostat was just sticking? But I'm not sure, perhaps there's more to this than I originally thought. Or maybe I should just throw on some performance upgrades that will make it run hotter to make up for it. Just kidding (sorta, haha).

Originally Posted by megamax42

Update: I bought a new thermostat today, the sleeve style that the company, Mr. Gasket, makes and installed it along with a new gasket (only after entirely removing the old gasket). I then fired it up and took it for a test ride. Ironically, now it's a little too cold, haha. It stays at around 140-150 F, even after applying the old lead foot. Perhaps the old thermostat was just sticking? But I'm not sure, perhaps there's more to this than I originally thought. Or maybe I should just throw on some performance upgrades that will make it run hotter to make up for it. Just kidding (sorta, haha).

What was the heat rating of the T-Stat that you purchased?

This just in- are you certain you didn't have the old tstat installed backwards?