Printable View
My new truck has a SBC 383, cam, Edelbrock carb.
No emissions, no sensors.
I would like some input on the correct temp thermostat to run.
I have a flex fan and an aluminum radiator and does not seem to
have a problem with overheating. Keep in mind that I live in Phoenix, Arizona.
I guess I'm trying to decide to use a 180 or 195 degree and what brand?
I am replacing a Motorad Failsafe that fails trying to get the air (steam)
out of the system.
Thanks! Joe
The old standard was 180*, but most SBC's can be happy with 195* Tstat's. It will run a little cleaner, less carbon on internals and such.. Given you live in AZ, you may consider a 180*, but 200-212* operating temperature is pretty good
you sure you do not have a air lock in the rad ? 180 would be a place to start you may want to look at a robertshaw stat .you will have to work the air out some set up can be hard.make sure the fill point is at the highest part of the cooling system let engine run till the stat opens up can by very messy and watch out not to get burned..... but that is the only way to work air out sometimesQuote:
Originally Posted by curmudgeon
Pat,
I will take alook at the robertshaw stat.
I do think the problem getting the air out of the system is the fill neck in the radiator
is off to one side and probably 3" lower than the crown of the tank as it fits the shape of the deuce grill shell.
Make sure you get a sleeve type and not a poppet style thermostat. A poppet style costs cost five bucks or less, a sleeve type costs 8 to 10 bucks. Sleeve type can outflow a poppet style and will give a uniform / even temperature in the motor. Poppet style is always wide open then closed tight, you can watch it on your temp gauge - always up and down. I think in Summit or Jegs they call the Sleeve type a high performance thermostat. I know Robertshaw makes both types.
If you run the poppet style drill a small hole, around 1/8" in the flange before installing. That little hole will let all of the air in the block bleed out during fill, instead of having to fill it as much as you can, then starting the engine and trying to "catch" it when the T-stat opens to burp air. The little hole makes the process sooooo much easier.
i think they have i check valve in the popet ones if not a 3/16 hole or two would not hurt . if he as a big air lock they can be a bitch to get out i had one in the chevy went around and around with the guy at stewart i had just a shim on stat . he kept telling me i had a air lock in the rad ? well he must of been right .at the time i could not see how he was right but he wasQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I like the idea of the flange hole, sounds like something the factory should make standard
I tried a 1/8" hole in a thermostat once and the car just wouldn't warm up. Barely any heat from the heater!
the robetshaw as a check valve?? .but do you need heat in AZ ?Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
If they are in the mountains of AZ..??..?? then I'll bet they do!
hell stay in side ?Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I've decided to go with a 180 degree Stant Superstat w/a 3/32"
hole in the flange.
On the Stant websight they stated that the thermo would fully open
15 to 20 degrees above temp on thermostat (195 to 200) that,s
partly why I chose a 180.
Thanks guys! Joe
Let us know how it works out! It's always better when we hear the outcome.
Exactly what I'm running, Joe. My dash gauge reads right at 180F, migrating up to maybe 195F in really hot weather going slow in traffic, and my ECU temp input right at the head outlet will be 192F to 203F at the corresponding temps. My electric fan goes to high speed at 210F, and seldom gets there. Haven't had any problems with it warming up fully within about five minutes, even in the winter temps. I think you'll be happy with that approach, but let us know how it does in the AZ sunshine!!Quote:
Originally Posted by curmudgeon