First stroker build

First time. I am looking for info, tips and tricks or just your personal opinion. So chime in if you want. So here is what I'm thinking. I've bought some parts. Other are still up for debate. Which is why I'm here.

Block = 350 4 bolt main 3970010 69-79 vette car or truck. I pulled it out of a 74 half ton pick up. was rebuilt a time or 3. But it had pink rods so Im guessing it didn't come from that pick up. But who knows?

Crank = I went with the scat 9000 pro comp light weight internally balanced. 6 inch rod and 3.750 stroke.

Rods = Scat 4340 forged pro stock I beam

Pistons = KB Silvo-lites

Heads = Going with the old "camel back" or "fuelie" or "double hump" heads 194 valves. 462's They will be rebuilt.

Intake manifold = weiand stealth

Carb = Holley double pumper 750

As far as everything else. ARP Bolt kit. I plan on clearencing the block myself. Have it bored thirty over. New freeze plugs Cam bearings. Hot tanked etc. So my first question. Due to the clearance issues. What would be a good cam and valve spring combo?

It sounds like you went with a packaged stroker kit.

Are you sure those rods are not stroker clearanced all ready??.

Many people want to turn back the clock and use the older heads.That's fine,but understand how much your giving up over the many good deals of aftermarket heads.Pat listed a whaling deal on SPH 180cc heads this week for only $600.And he has the shop with tons of experience to fill them out to make a real ba$$ torquer 383 along with the tech support you would get from him in parts selections.Look in the parts for sale section.Might want to PM him.
Ya know there is certainly good reasons why yrs ago the aftermarket head business came into being.In short it was to see how limited stock heads are.

I agree with Gary. By the time you completely rebuild a set of 40 year old heads, you could have purchased a set of superior flowing aftermarket heads. Those old heads will flow 160 at best and any respectable 383 will need at least 180 or better yet, 190 in order to breathe efficiently.

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Originally Posted by wannt77

What would be a good cam and valve spring combo?

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You cannot intelligently choose a camshaft for a motor until you have figured the exact static compression ratio. The SCR must match the intake valve closing point if you want to do it properly.
I know most of you fellows don't understand this and that's why we end up with so many of those "I installed a hot cam and now my car is slower than it was".
The camshaft by itself will not improve performance like you think it will, unless it is matched to the intake valve closing point. Here's a chart that I wrote for the wiki on another forum, maybe it will add to your knowledge.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

Other thing is, it seems a shame to use those old tech heads. Here's a set of cast iron 200cc intake runner heads from Racing Head Service that I would use on a 383. Less than $1000 for the set, ready to bolt on. You'll have close to that invested in those older production heads by the time you have them magnafluxed for cracks, new valves, seals, springs and retainers, milling and drilling for guide plates and screw-in studs, precision valve job and cutting the exhaust seats out of the heads to install hard seats for unleaded gas.
RHS, Pro Action Cast Iron Chev SB Head, Stage 2, Pair-Competition Products

I didn't know Pat McCarthy had heads for sale at that price....look into them....

No didn't but a complete rotating assembly. Part for part. Slow build over the next year. And I know people will frown upon the older heads. I know they flow just as good or about the same as the stock vortec. But I think its a nice touch. A little retro part thrown in the for the cool factor. I've already decided to put them on. Hardened valve seats. Magnafluxed and shaved. I've got qual racing valves to go in them. Call me a sucker. But I like the idea. And in my opinion. Is pretty freaking cool.

Honestly my suggestion is no one will recognize the older style heads unless they see the effort on accessory brackets needed to mount things like the later yr alt,power steering pump because the early heads don't have the holes for that.I do suggest your going to be spending time explaining oh those are double hump heads and not have any of the performance to show for it.

Before you make that move on the heads,might I suggest the following.Your spending all this money for a stroker and then limiting it's output on a topic your going to have to explain to people.To compare them to the Vortec's is a bad example because those stock Vortec heads given how limited they are as well would not be a good choice.Either the Vortecs or the older heads are a bad match for the 383.We leaned alot since the first 383's where built and the how and why you see the difference in ET times from yrs ago.Bottom line is the head are counter productive in building a 383.

So that said,maybe you would be better off not building the 383 and rather build a 355 which isn't a good match either but alittle closer.

Oh I think it was Richard that posted once the formula of .5 X CU= the needed intake runner size.So for a 383 it would be .5 X 383 =190 CC's.Or in that range and if you wanted to tailor the torque output with a lower torque curve in abit smaller intake runner.If you check that out on line anywhere on the net,you would find how dead on that formula is.

I wanted to pass on to you that these things are not guess work.It is more over yrs of R & D in development in the SBC's.

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Originally Posted by 1gary

Honestly my suggestion is no one will recognize the older style heads unless they see the effort on accessory brackets needed to mount things like the later yr alt,power steering pump because the early heads don't have the holes for that.I do suggest your going to be spending time explaining oh those are double hump heads and not have any of the performance to show for it.

Before you make that move on the heads,might I suggest the following.Your spending all this money for a stroker and then limiting it's output on a topic your going to have to explain to people.To compare them to the Vortec's is a bad example because those stock Vortec heads given how limited they are as well would not be a good choice.Either the Vortecs or the older heads are a bad match for the 383.We leaned alot since the first 383's where built and the how and why you see the difference in ET times from yrs ago.Bottom line is the head are counter productive in building a 383.

So that said,maybe you would be better off not building the 383 and rather build a 355 which isn't a good match either but alittle closer.

Oh I think it was Richard that posted once the formula of .5 X CU= the needed intake runner size.So for a 383 it would be .5 X 383 =190 CC's.Or in that range and if you wanted to tailor the torque output with a lower torque curve in abit smaller intake runner.If you check that out on line anywhere on the net,you would find how dead on that formula is.

I wanted to pass on to you that these things are not guess work.It is more over yrs of R & D in development in the SBC's.

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C'mon Gary, the guy said clearly

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I've already decided to put them on.

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He's made the decision, right or wrong, and seems to understand the limitations. Sounds to me like a done deal, so why beat the drum?

Wannt77, if you're set on that combo I'd call the tech guys at Comp Cam, explain exactly what you've got, including your final compression ratio, and let them guide you to a cam selection. You're obviously not searching for that last foot pound or last couple of horses in this build. What's this engine going to be dropped into, and what's the rest of your driveline going to be?

Roger,your right.That's what he posted.

Nothing wrong with a bit of retro on an engine, especially if you're not really concerned with wringing every last bit of torque and horsepower out of the engine! I've seen too many guys max out an engine then not have the driveline, suspension, or brakes to handle it. Especially on the street it's very easy to overpower the limited traction that is available. Your setup, with the right goodies in the valve train, should be fairly street friendly and still have respectable performance!

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I've seen too many guys max out an engine then not have the driveline, suspension, or brakes to handle it. Especially on the street it's very easy to overpower the limited traction that is available.

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Ain't it the truth Dave? That's why I still preach that all these younguns start at the wrong end of the car.