Building a 302 on a 350 block

I'm looking at ordering up parts to build a modern 302 on a 350 block. The crank's straightforward, Eagle 435030005700 3.00" stroke. Hoping to use my stock 350 rods, and but need a little advice on pistons. I can find the various 302 chevy options, SRP etc, but just want to have some of you folks look over the parts before I click order buttons. Looking to build a mild street motor with decent MPG, ran 350's too long and after something different, also slightly reduced torque due to drivetrain limitations is welcomed. This is mostly about a nice little smallblock with a good sound that gets decent mileage.

Looking at:

Eagle 435030005700 3.00" crank
Aluminum heads, 2.02/1.60 valves
Moving over my Edelbrock performer 500cfm carb and manifold (not taking this motor above 5500)
SRP 302 pistons 202890 (?) Likely going 30 thou over but need to pull my 350's heads still.
Stock rods
Running 87 octane (may have to drop compression slightly with the SRP pistons... advice sought).

Thoughts appreciated.

If you want more piston options, pick up a set of L99 (4.3L baby LT1) rods. They are 5.94" long powdered metal. With these you can use pistons from a 350. I'm using these in my 302 although mine will be built for high RPM's.

If you want decent mileage I would use 1.94/1.5 heads and for the most bang for the buck I would also use Vortec heads. The 2.02 heads are really too big for a mileage engine. They will hurt the low end torque---less MPG.

It just baffles me that guys buy the bottom of the barrel parts like Eagle which is off shore junk that has a history of QC issues and then don't think it is cheap junk for a reason thinking they got "a deal".Ya just got to know ya get what you pay for................

The physics work like this.Smaller C.I.= a need to spin the engine up in a higher rpm range to get into the power band of the engine.The exception is the LS series engines with the supporting EFI system.

Why don't you find an old 283 or 327? They had good gas milage and reasonable torque. A lot less expensive if you can find one.

High rpm and powdered metal rods = disaster. They are not strong enough to spin the kind of rpms normally associated with 302's. If you are going to spin that puppy to 7000 rpm, you'd better be looking at some aftermarket connecting rods like SCAT H-beams.

this guy not building any thing he signed up 11-13-2011 made 1 post on 11-13-2011 and last activity 11-13-2011 he never even bothered to check in .....ted

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this guy not building any thing he signed up 11-13-2011 made 1 post on 11-13-2011 and last activity 11-13-2011 he never even bothered to check in .....ted

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Nice welcome for someone new. No, I haven't been here since I signed up. And just think, 399 posts ago you had only made 1 post. I've just started to read posts. It amazes me how some people think that they can know everything about someone while they know nothing about you.

I could go through a list of everything in my engine but I already know from your reply that it wouldn't matter. If this is the way you guys are here then I don't need to stay.

Chevy says that the PM rods are stronger than the pink rods so I think I will be just fine. My 302 will see only street driving with occasional 7000 RPM shots. I doubt it will ever see a run at the drag strip.

While it is true that PM rods are stronger than the OEM pink rods, the bolt is the weak link. I would highly advise replacing the stock rod bolts and having them resized before putting them in your engine. I would still feel more comfortable with forged H-beams at 7000 rpm, but that is my own personal opinion. Ignore the obnoxious message. Most of us on these forums are more interested in sharing our expertise with others.

Troll (Internet) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

My rods already have been magnifluxed, resized and have ARP bolts.

Well, don't judge the whole membership of CHR by a few random responses...

As for the rods.... There's a number of sealed motor classes in the circle burners running these rods, from talking with a couple of the guys that run them the rods do hold up amazingly well. If the 7000 rpm shots were the exception, not the rule based on what some racers dudes have said about the rods, you're probably going to be fine! There was certainly a ton of sbc's with pink rods that went 7,000 quite often, guess they worked good then cuz we just didn't know any better!!!!!:LOL::LOL: The new manufacturing technologies on some of these OEM parts is really fantastic, getting more ponies out of a stock engine then we got with "race" engines---and they come with a 3 year warranty!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Well, don't judge the whole membership of CHR by a few random responses...

As for the rods.... There's a number of sealed motor classes in the circle burners running these rods, from talking with a couple of the guys that run them the rods do hold up amazingly well. If the 7000 rpm shots were the exception, not the rule based on what some racers dudes have said about the rods, you're probably going to be fine! There was certainly a ton of sbc's with pink rods that went 7,000 quite often, guess they worked good then cuz we just didn't know any better!!!!!:LOL::LOL: The new manufacturing technologies on some of these OEM parts is really fantastic, getting more ponies out of a stock engine then we got with "race" engines---and they come with a 3 year warranty!!!!!

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Yeah yrs ago we used to run pink rods in super gas cars.So if the powder are better than they are.My comments/suggestions are more related to the imported junk.Hell yrs ago we used to run Buick rods machined to SBC sizes to get just alittle longer rod.And we spun the hell out of them.

High RPM is in the valve train not the connecting rods

and V8Carrea---your acting like this is about you?????

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V8Carrea---your acting like this is about you?????

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No, it was just the comment from ted dehaan, that's all.

And I agree, RPM is in the valve train.

Most rods break because of material flaws, detonation, bad bolts or improper tightening of the bolts. Magnaflux, use good bolts and tighten using a bolt stretch gauge.

Well Ted was right--he ain't been back since he posted

And most rod failures will be because of cylinder wall failures or lack of lubrication--of course that will result in material failure or bolt streching or breaking