Thread: ZDDP questoins

Tweet

well there is no zddp in most all oils made now .it will plug the cataytic converters. that is why most race oils have the zddp and will say not for pollution controlled vehicles you can added all the whizz bang stuff you want .but it can also sit in the bottom of the oil pan. may or not mix then you get in to a oil clash. may work and may not at the time needed . i use a oil made for the job brad penn or joe gibbs .hi detergente oils can block the zddp from bonding .a fast burn zddp is what you want for break in that will go in to the micro valleys of metal parts bond and turn it to glass like micro finsh this is what the fast burn zddp will do .it will not work if a hi detergent oil is used as this will block zddp from hooking in to the metal part and stripping the zinc if it makes it there .diesel oil may not save your butt as the load from the hi cr has a slower burn rate then most street engines and were you may need it the zzdp may not be working for you .so there is more to this then just saying a oil has zinc but to say a oil has zinc that will work for the job at hand . this is what lake speed from joe gibbs was telling us so i will take has word for it . why be cheap? or spend money on oil and a mix that makes you feel like your doing some thing good for your engine when it just may not do any thing ?oil is not home made soup you can mix at home ? when i build a engine i want the oil that works

I have done as much reading on this subject as I can find. I also have some personal experiance with the oils commonly available today. What this research found is a very high failure rate for Flat Tappet Cams. It has gotten so bad that when I had Pat build my last motor a SBC I used at Pats recommendation a roller cam. I also have built a couple of BBC Chevys and have learned by listening to guys that really know there way around BBC's that a roller is really the only way to go in that engine period.

I also talked to just about all of the Cam manufacturers. Without a doubt what all of them told me was that a stock motor or one close to stock can get by with a additive pack of as low as 850 PPM they would prefer 1,000 PPM of Zinc Phos. But if you are using an aftermarket cam that requires a higher pressure spring and a more aggresive cam profile that nothing less than 1200 to 1300 PPM has any chance of letting the cam live.

paul274854, If you are using Rotella and think it is giving you protection than thats fine with me. I don't think it is, and I am not trusting my investment to a oil that at best is borderline by the recommendation of the guys building the cams.

RS

pat mccarthy,Hombre259,rspears,buzz and evryone else who replied.......Thank you so much for your advice!! Can't wait to get this thing going. Just waiting on the trans (freshly reworked 200r4.) Hooking that up to a new crate engine (GM # 19210009) Putting that in a beautiful black 87 Cutlass Supreme. Thanks again to everyone.......Rich

Rotella is CJ-4 oil now too and has been for a couple years along with Del-vac and all the others. All of the CI-4 oil was bought up very quickly by the diesel truck guys in store cleanout lots when the standard was changed. Every one of us diesel guys constantly check out oil in the stores to see if we can find CI-4 so you won't see it in the common stores. I use Lucas in both the streetrod and the Cummins.

STOP BUYING UP OUR DIESEL OIL FOR YOUR HOT RODS. We need it for our trucks. There is no advantage to running 15-40 in a streetrod. 10-30 or 10-40 works just fine unless you are loose as a goose. Just add any ZDDP additive.

schaffers has moly in it, bonds the the metal good stuff. along with zinc and all the other good stuff holds up well in te circle track cars. but i know drag racers that use it to.