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Thread: Lifter questions
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Southgrain is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1978 Chevy Monte Carlo
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    Lifter questions

     



    So i basically have two questions first what do you think a ticking in the motor would be it ticks when its cold and right before the oil gets to it like right when i start it in the morning and then it goes away until i drive it for a about 30 minutes then it starts to tick again i was thinking it was a lifter that was failing so i was going to change the lifter and if i could figure out which one it is can i just change one or do i have to change them all and do i have to do the 2000 rpm breaking again.

  2. #2
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    try putting cd2 (oil aditive) in it , usally cures it .
    302 c.i. of knowledge power

  3. #3
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    It may have the wrong oil filter, check to see if it has a relief valve in it.

  4. #4
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1969 GTO 455 78 FLH 37 Pontiac
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    Do you have roller rockers?

  5. #5
    HOSS429's Avatar
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    mite just tighten it a bit also
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  6. #6
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    might be better to just adjust them as changing them could make things worse
    Charlie
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  7. #7
    Southgrain is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yes i do have roller rockers and i run rotella 15w40 oil. Also what is the best way to adjust the valves?

  8. #8
    Trjohn57's Avatar
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    There are formulas on the net. I've never had to do my roller rockers. But I have found sites that explained how to adjust my other rockers. Pull off your valve covers and check to see if you have a loose one. If they seem tight, then click your motor over a few times to recheck and recheck. Just trying to help.

    Google it.

  9. #9
    suprstock's Avatar
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    youll need a diagram is it hydraLIC LIFTERS
    302 c.i. of knowledge power

  10. #10
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    302 c.i. of knowledge power

  11. #11
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    Or you can warm up the engine---then remove a valve cover--start the engine--one rocker at a time loosen the lock until it clatters, tighten til clatter just goes away, go to next rocker in turn, switch to other side and do the same

    Caution--can be messy, oil will smoke from the exhaust manifolds,however you will set the running valve train for your oil and pressure---

    Also if you have any flat cam lobes you will notice that the rockers don't move as much as others
    If the pushrods aren't rotating you have a flat cam/lifter issue

  12. #12
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Or you can warm up the engine---then remove a valve cover--start the engine--one rocker at a time loosen the lock until it clatters, tighten til clatter just goes away, go to next rocker in turn, switch to other side and do the same

    Caution--can be messy, oil will smoke from the exhaust manifolds,however you will set the running valve train for your oil and pressure---

    Also if you have any flat cam lobes you will notice that the rockers don't move as much as others
    If the pushrods aren't rotating you have a flat cam/lifter issue
    Jerry - been a while since I did a Chebbie - but loosen each to clatter, down til it stops then another half to three quarters turn is my recollection. And I do recall the oil bath.

    But since I've already been wrong once this year.......
    Dave W
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  13. #13
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    Dave

    I didn't go into the so much of a turn deal because everybody has there own ideas---for me, the issue was to make absolutely sure that the lifter was at the very extreme end of its travel so as not to have lifter pump-up which would keep the valves from closing----and maybe even valve/piston contact

    this method usually was good for another 500-1000 rpms

  14. #14
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Dave

    I didn't go into the so much of a turn deal because everybody has there own ideas---for me, the issue was to make absolutely sure that the lifter was at the very extreme end of its travel so as not to have lifter pump-up which would keep the valves from closing----and maybe even valve/piston contact

    this method usually was good for another 500-1000 rpms
    OK - I understand what you were trying to accomplish now - and agree
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  15. #15
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    At hot idle, sometimes they sounded like solids--been protested several times over that

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