SB chevy advice

I own a 92 mustang currently which I am selling. It's a nice 12 second streeter but for my next car I want more. I am looking at getting a G-BODY next and putting a 350 based motor behind it. Ok, so here are the questions.


I want to run 10's N/A but still be streetable....Possible?

I want to build an auto...Which one? I want a 4 speed (overdrive) I was thinking of a 200r4, where can I get good kits for these? ]

What rear end should I go with? I would guess and say a 12 bolt, but I haven't read too much on chevy stuff. Thanks guys! :D

It would be a lot easier and probably less expensive if you went with a big block. 11's, okay, that would be do-able. 10's, naturally aspirated, that might be difficult if you want a car that is streetable.

You didn’t say “which” G-Body you’re after but I’m thinking Monte Carlo, eh? It doesn’t really matter as the Buick Regal, Olds Cutlass or Grand Prix are all very similar. They’ll all weigh somewhere between 3200-3300 pounds depending on options and everything interchanges. They all were manufactured with TH-350 and 200R4 transmissions and with some work they can all handle a 12 bolt GM rearend (although you’d be surprised how bullet proof a 10 bolt can be built!)

Ten seconds is a challenge as you’ll need 650 horsepower to push 3200 pounds through the traps in the 10 second range. You can get 350 out of a normally aspirated 350, but the likelihood of it being anywhere near “streetable” will be slim to none. You’d also have well over $10K in the engine and need to have access to race fuel to support the necessary compression ratio. Trust me; you wouldn’t want to drive it to church as the rumble in the parking lot would convince the parishioners that the second coming was eminent. The 650 horse requirement will also limit your transmission choices to a very well built (read professionally built) 200R4 with a matched TC.

If you really want to be able to run this car on the street (without attracting every Gestapo in NY) and have it go through the ¼ in 10 seconds you may want to think big block as there is no “reasonable” substitution for cubic inches. Pat McCarthy builds BBC motors for a living and he’s forgot more about making horsepower than most on this site ever knew. Give us some more specific details about what you want to see in the finished product and Pat will help with suggestions. Techinspector is also a well spring of knowledge and has access to some computer modeling software that will help in deciding components and will also help you develop a budget.

Good Luck and welcome to CHR!
Glenn

You hit it on the head with the monte carlo. And, I want a nice streeter that can smoke nearly anything on the street (that I roll up on...) and run good numbers at the track. I said small block because if I have a big block, people will expect more out of it. I want to race some people for a few $$ too and when they see big block they automatically think race car. What could I expect out of a street driven BBC? Gas mileage wise and numbers wise. I also wouldn't know what big block to put behind it. I'm a ford guy, remember. It's not that I care so much about gas mileage, but I don't want to drive something that I have to fill up 329612 time a day. Thanks! :D

For every 100lbs it is the same as 10HP.So light is a answer.Tons easier to lose 100lbs than pay for 10HP.Thing that honestly struck me when I read you wanted a N/A 10 second SBC is for the street light to street light racing,it doesn't account for you to really know what the other car is.A N/A or not.So what do you do???.Get out before the light changes and ask the other guy if he is playing by the rules with a N/A car.:LOL:My point is the cars that are a 10 second N/A car on the street are rare.More likely more boost additive cars that are being sprayed in that 10 second bracket.And why worry about a 10 second car for the street when you know going in there aren't that many of them.
anyways.

The other thing is nothing changes.The old saying is how much money to you want to spend and how fast to you want to go??.With World Products big inch SBC's you might get close and then spray it to get you closer.But your going to paid to play there for sure.;);)

To do this with a small block, you'd have to run so much static compression ratio and so much cam that guys would be saying "race car" from a block away. The converter and gear that you'd have to run also would not be street friendly.

I'd start by stripping 500 to 600 lbs. out of the car and going Lexan for windows, then install a aluminum-headed 454 or larger with a TH400 trans, 3000 stall converter, Moser 9" housing rigged for ladder bars with 4.56 gears and a locker. You'll need a full cage and tubs.

It's easy to say 10 seconds. It's a whole other thing to RUN 10 seconds. Trust me. I've been hanging around drag strips since 1958.

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

To do this with a small block, you'd have to run so much static compression ratio and so much cam that guys would be saying "race car" from a block away. The converter and gear that you'd have to run also would not be street friendly.

I'd start by stripping 500 to 600 lbs. out of the car and going Lexan for windows, then install a aluminum-headed 454 or larger with a TH400 trans, 3000 stall converter, Moser 9" housing rigged for ladder bars with 4.56 gears and a locker. You'll need a full cage and tubs.

It's easy to say 10 seconds. It's a whole other thing to RUN 10 seconds. Trust me. I've been hanging around drag strips since 1958.

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^^^ I can see you come frome experience...But I want overdrive, and probably 4:10's, not some crazy gear like 4:56's. I've seen SBF's run high 10's with a 302 so I figured a 350 would be easy...

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Originally Posted by SBchevy350

I figured a 350 would be easy...

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Go for it.

there are 10 second sbc's all over the track but on the street its gona be tough to drive on the street.you can do anything with enough $$$.but theres no way to hide that much power.when it comes to hp you can build a big block cheaper than a sb. after you pass 450 hp or so on a sb it gets costly. the big block is cheaper to build after that point.but you can get carried away with either.i think the big block will last longer too.not bein as radicaly built.you can get 500 hp out of a big block purdy dang easy.if you want a sb go for it. its your $$ and time.

As for the rearend, they make bolt in 9 inch housings that are very reasonable. Much easier to swap out gears, and stronger IMO too.

As for not wanting guys to know you have a big block, why even open the hood? We never did, or have the rules of street racing changed? :LOL: I even had some of my hoods chained shut and padlocked. :D

Don

I know you want N/A 350, but 650 HP and 10 seconds in the 1/4 mile and streetable, that will be tough. How about an LS motor with a Paxton or Turbo. I think your goals might be achievable.

Keith

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Originally Posted by SBchevy350

^^^. I've seen SBF's run high 10's with a 302 so I figured a 350 would be easy...

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Well now, see that is the difference........you are now talking CHEVY! :eek:

(Oh oh, is that sabre rattling I hear from the Chevy camp???? :LOL::LOL:)

Don








BTW.............JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!! :D

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

As for the rearend, they make bolt in 9 inch housings that are very reasonable. Much easier to swap out gears, and stronger IMO too.

As for not wanting guys to know you have a big block, why even open the hood? We never did, or have the rules of street racing changed? :LOL: I even had some of my hoods chained shut and padlocked. :D

Don

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Well, when we're about to run they'll ask "stock block? Small block or big block?" So no one really opens hoods, just gotta stip em' the way they sit.

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Originally Posted by blwn31

I know you want N/A 350, but 650 HP and 10 seconds in the 1/4 mile and streetable, that will be tough. How about an LS motor with a Paxton or Turbo. I think your goals might be achievable.

Keith

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^^^ I was thinking about doing this....But LS motors cost a good amount of dough. And then the turbo/blower kit is even more. I don't know. I have so many things running through my head. The only thing I really have set is the fact that I want to run 10's or faster on the street...Not necessarily ON the street, but it would be nice if the car was streetable.

Turbo or turbo's on a small block is the way to go if you want to run it on the street and see 10's at the track.

OR go with a big block.

It's not going to be cheap either way. If it was, everyone would have 10 second street cars.

I thought about it. Goal is to be as fast as I can out of a turbo LS motor. Most likely an LS1 or an LS2. Gonna be a 70 something turbo and looking for 650RWHP or more. What rear comes in a late body camaro? (98'-02') I think a 12 bolt..

That reared in stock condition will not hold up. They don't even hold up to stock horse power.

Keith

i use to make up ford 9s for the G body and A body GM made up a jig to do them and that used the stock 4 link points can be made to work i would not throw that out less your going tub out but you can do a min tub and keep the stock link points

Really? I thought 12 bolts were strong....Well what would you guys reccomend? That I should build up that rear? Or fab up a 9 inch...And aren't LS1 internals not strong? I've seen mixed reviews...Some say 550RWHP is the limit with the stock rods..And others say 600RWHP

12s are strong but GM never made one to fit a G body cars from he 80s . but can be made to fit my freind mark had one in a G body . i allways made 9s up for them .ls1 are a good engine i did some work on one that was a road race engine still holding up with stock bottom end 500+hp. now on the street after many mist shifts still holding .but better rods would be wise