Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Front cam cover seal oil leak
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    seattlematt is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1

    Front cam cover seal oil leak

     



    Since I installed a remanufactured engine I've been having a difficult time with an oil leak on the front of the engine behind the harmonic balancer. It drips about 1 drip per 2 seconds.

    The original engine had a plastic timing cover which didn't fit the remanufactured one so I went out and bought a shiny cheapo one for $17 with included seal. I followed the leak with my fingers and It seems to be coming from the oil seal. I've been working on this problem for quite some time, here is what I have done so far.

    I've replaced the seal 3 times, sanded the seal surface on the balancer (600) and added an speedi-sleeve, seal still leaks.

    My next idea is to install another new timing cover with seal, but I fear it will still leak. I'm out of ideas and frustrated, any idea what I am doing wrong?

  2. #2
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    well are you sure that block did not need the plastic cover? older tin cover needs dowel pins to line up the seal up to hub. the front of new block. has no pins to help center it up. it has shoulder bolts to help center the plastic cover so at this point with the tin front cover if you block as no pins. the hub centers it up on seal you need to keep cover bolts loose till damper is on this helps center it up then draw all cover bolts down
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  3. #3
    hotrodstude is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    pendergrass
    Car Year, Make, Model: 2006,ford,f-150,v-6,5-speed manual
    Posts
    245

    dose the damper have a groove worn inti it??? a sleeve can be found at any good parts store that slipps over the machined part of the damper it will last for about 30,000 miles before needing replacement if your going to keep the car install a new damper.

  4. #4
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    he has a speed sleeve on the old damper i would not bet alot of money on a cheap chrome cover that the size or any thing else is on the money .i used some were the fit was so /so and had one that would not hold a new seal it would fall out on the floor no press fit i would use a stocker and seal the crank to hub were the key way is can weep out i use RTV for this
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 06-22-2010 at 07:12 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  5. #5
    northern is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    pulaski
    Posts
    1

    They do make an oversize seal for the timming chain cover, I had this same problem and it worked for me.

  6. #6
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,639

    Don't know about this particular engine but, a lot of them use a slinger that goes on first to help keep oil away from the seal. Maybe yours needs one and it's not there?

  7. #7
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    newer sbc do not used a slinger
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  8. #8
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,639

    Well. It was a good thought! LOL...

  9. #9
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Well. It was a good thought! LOL...
    yes it was right now i building a engine that as no rear main seal no rope no rubber not one thing i spent sometime looking it over as i did not take it apart.... it has a slinger on the crank hub and a U groove in the block and cap the main cap is drill with a drain tube for run off dumps in the oil pan. hard to think they never used a seal ? its a first for me good thing is i did not have to play with a rope seal .bad thing is i spent more time making sure it did not need some kind of felt or leather or rope seal
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  10. #10
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,639

    Quote Originally Posted by pat mccarthy View Post
    yes it was right now i building a engine that as no rear main seal no rope no rubber not one thing i spent sometime looking it over as i did not take it apart.... it has a slinger on the crank hub and a U groove in the block and cap the main cap is drill with a drain tube for run off dumps in the oil pan. hard to think they never used a seal ? its a first for me good thing is i did not have to play with a rope seal .bad thing is i spent more time making sure it did not need some kind of felt or leather or rope seal
    It sounds like the ones we have at work, our centrifuges don't use a rope or rubber medium either. It has what's known as a labrynth seal. Works fine as long as they maintain a slight negative pressure inside! Keep a good PCV system in that motor!
    Last edited by 34_40; 06-27-2010 at 07:59 AM. Reason: missed 1

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink