Balancer Advice and Angle Milling?

i'm building a pretty hot 350 for my 1960 chevy truck. it's about 11.5:1 compression, solid roller cam, ported aluminum heads, etc......i'm looking for quick revs and upper rpm horsepower ASAP so my whole rotating assembly is the ultra lightweight eagle with mahle pistons and 6.125" rods, etc....i'm looking at ATI Super Dampers and i need help decided whether it's worth it or not to spend an extra $75 to get the light weight aluminum ring as opposed to the all steel damper. This is just a "street" truck but i do have very steep gears and a 4 speed and this engine should make power to 7000 rpm. i would like to know if it's worth the extra money, how much this will benefit quick rpms, less stress on the the engine? i would like to know anything at all about these two dampers. pros and cons of going either way.

also, on another note, i've been thinking about getting my heads angle milled. i've talked to a lot of circle track guys that say go on ahead and do it. i understand that the more the valve angle is stood up, the more power produced. But on my "street" motor, would it be worth it? i can deal with the higher compression but is the airflow really worth all the work? my heads are already ported...

thanks

i would and have used the steel ATI.s why would you want to angle mill your heads ? you have alot of cr now for the street ? or do you want more ? i flat mill heads rolling the heads your going to get more cc off this way but your intake will need to be re cut your head bolt holes need to be re spot faced $$$ it realy not worth much as i see it less its the only way you can get the CR you want and its worth the $$$

Your piston valve angles will change. Depending on the dome of your pistons, you'll need to redo some work in that area.

well i'm at elevation so compression really isn't that big of an issue for me. the more the marrier right?! but i'm really looking for more head flow. i figure if out of the box 18* heads flow 300+ cfm my ported 23* angle milled to 20* probably should flow close to that hopefully. i'm trying to squeeze every oz. of power out of this little engine.

oh and my pistons are already stamped 21* from mahle and they're flat tops. flat tops with 58cc chambers, a .038 thick gasket @ 4.100 bore and a 8.99 deck height would put my compression now at around 11.5 correct? it's 3.48" stroke and 4.065 bore. yes, i'm using hardblok :)

well it would have to do with how deep the valve fly cut is and how much room you have for valve size to roll it if any thing you could loose some PV or you just have to re fly cut them been there done that . do not forget that you have to add the ccs for the intake pocket that could be about 4cc

alright, thanks for all your help guys. i got the steel damper and probably won't angle mill my heads unless i have that much extra money when i'm done with everything else..haha yeah right. i guess i don't NEED more compression.....is there some kind of formula or something you guys know (i know formulas aren't exact but i'd like to get an idea) to see whether a certain combonation can run on pump gas or not? like using octane rating, valve timing, overlap, LSA, intake/exhaust flow/efficiency. i'm not worried about it too much with the cam i have currently (106 LSA w/75* of overlap) but i do want to mess with my cam timing with this cam, and eventually swap to something a little bigger (lift and duration) with a 112 or so LSA @ about 65* of overlap. BTW i'm at around 4,500 ft elevation.

Thanks again for all your help.