Any Opinions on This...???

What is yall's thoughts on this???

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150100

Thanks

Especially Techinspector, because he told me to use this dimension block, etc... Thanks again

well price is ok but you would be better to buy a short block were all your parts are machine to fit the block .if its not as good as they say your playing the game of sending it back or more machine work .were a 4.030 bore could be more or less then you want and i have seen this alot i bore blocks every week:D were from make to make of pistons they can be off 001 or more in one set of pistons .so if you have no way to check all this stuff .it can be hard with out all the tools.were a short block would help with this alot of the hard work is done. were alot of guys screw up is think they buy a block and crank kit after checking some of the name brand kits there not as good as they could be for balancing or the bearing size are not good.. and not check any thing just put it together now this may work some times it may not. were a engine builder that has a machine shop to fit the parts where they need and machine the block were it needs to be as well as put the bearings size were it should be helps.this i do and can ship you just a block done or short block as well .i have a transporter to ship engines that leave my shop. P.M me if you want a hi quality machined block or short block

thanks..
Question 1: If I"m about to spend about 4 months of hard earned money to build an engine...should I start with a built short block and go from there???

Question 2: Should I buy the rotating assembly I WANT and give it to the machine shop to install, because I don't want some booboo parts?

well your better to have a short block or long block built and machined by someone that knows what parts work and what parts he likes to use.... this will save you money.....if you send your machined parts to a machine shop to put together and parts you did not buy from them they may tell you to hit the road

I have purchased a block like this from summit some years ago and it was the best engine i have ever had. But like pat said i had all the tools to check the clearances of the block. I also had bought all new piston and crank and rods. as far as buying the rotating assembly it needs to go to machine shop for balance anyway. The machine shops i always use will check your clearances for almost nothing. ( I did say check not make right but check ). hope this helps.

well yes if you buy a crank it will need to be balance .what i should of said is the roatating kit that you paid for balanced crank... were alot do not get them very close this you can not check less your going to re balance the crank and if you buy pistons for 030 over bore and they need to be at 4.031 or the bore need to be 4.029 were a forged piston a bigger bore would not be the end of the world it will for a cast piston or a hyper piston. not all pistons come in at 4.030 needed bore size ?? then its back to the machine shop for a hone $$$ but if to big of bore for a smaller cast or hyper piston.as for there blocks are the best well they could of been or still are or not then what ?? they do not machine the blocks ? they buy them and may use more then one shop it all comes down to how cheap they can get them from the rebuild shop and how much money they can make on them

so even if I were to buy this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B12108030/

and this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150100

I would still need an expert opinion on whether it's safe to run as is or not?
So basically I should just go to my local machine shop and buy a block off the floor and have them build me a short block to my parameters such as forged crank, forged rods, forged pistons, 10:1 static comp. ratio and that would be the safest and cheapest way to do it????

what are you trying to build ? how much power ? how much rpm ? what heads ? Nos ? blower ? turbo? them kits do not get under 10 grams end to end on the crank. all this stuff needs to be fitted and check .as for a local machine shop? i could not tell you are they going to deck plate it hone and hold bores under 0005 tapper . are they using the BHJ tru -deck to get the deck less then .002 can they blance the crank and keep it under 2 grams end to end . are they going to check all the rod bores and main bores and put to size if needed ? what can they do ? how good are they ?do they build engines like this ? not a hard engine to build. i built many strokers over the years but some shop only want to build stock stuff more money alot less time

well i need you to build me this then..dammit, lol. Just a wicked street car that can handle regular beating on the strip and drift track/road course.
about 440hp, no blower, no juice, n/a all day. but need STRONG parts
Forged bottom end, hydraulic roller top end, budget 6,000