Thread: What do you guys think about this combo for my 355

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Originally Posted by LURCHBIOTCH

I want something with good power but also want decent road manners etc. its gonna kinda be a daily driver.

OK, I'm going to take you at your word here and put together a nice little daily driver 355....

Deck the block to 9.013" block deck height. Using a piston with a compression height of 1.561", this will set the piston deck height at 0.012" and square the block up. We'll use a GM 10105117 head gasket that compresses to 0.028" for a squish of 0.040". Squaring up the decks end to end (parallel with the main bearing bore) will also go a long ways toward insuring that the intake manifold/cylinder head interface will be square to prevent vacuum leaks.

Keith Black hypereutectic pistons #KB142 18cc D-cup. You miscalculated the static compression ratio with an 18cc piston. With 64cc heads, the static compression ratio is 9.1:1 and that, in my opinion, is close to the perfect scr to run with iron heads and a modest cam. (Remember, daily driver).
http://kb-silvolite.com/performance....tails&P_id=154

CompCams #12-208-2 flat tappet hydraulic cam, using stock ratio 1.5 rockers. 1.6 rockers will only add unnecessary stress to the cam/lifters and will show only single digit hp and torque gains. (Remember, daily driver). Install the cam advanced 2 degrees (intake closes 33.5 degrees ABDC @ 0.050" tappet lift).
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=104&sb=0
Use Comp #981 springs that incorporate a spiral wound damper spring to control spring harmonics, #742 7-degree retainers and #648 7-degree locks. Install at 1.700". See post #6 on this thread for suggestions concerning the installation of flat tappet cams....
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/cam-...ht=Racer+Brown
It caused quite a lot of controversy, but somebody had to do it....extreme pressure lubricants have been removed from motor oils for the most part and I see more and more roached cams as a result.

Alternately, use GM Z-28 springs, retainers and locks. Scoggin-Dickey has these in a spring/retainer/lock kit under part number SD1004. Install at 1.735". They are a little less money than the Comp pieces and will do the same job.
www.sdparts.com

Edelbrock #7116 RPM Vortec intake manifold with 600/650 square bore carburetor of your choice. Polished is #71161, Endurashine is #71164. I'd like to use a high-rise, dual-plane Vortec intake mounting a Quadrajet on this build, but nobody makes the manifold to do it. Alternately, you could use a Professional Products Crosswind Vortec high-rise intake manifold, #52028 satin or #52027 polished in place of the Edelbrock manifold. It's a little less money and will do the same job. There's a used 7116 on ebay right now, item #120457563835.

Fel-Pro has a new intake gasket set for the Vortec heads that is supposed to be the hot ticket....# MS98000T. For best results, use Scoggin-Dickey intake manifold bolt kit #SD12550027.

Use full-length, long-tube headers, 1 5/8" primary tubes with 3/8" thick flanges to reduce warping. Install an "X" pipe right after the collectors, before the mufflers. Run 2 1/4" pipes (no need for any bigger on a 355) to the rear of the Jeep. Terminating the pipes under the Jeep will make you nuts after a while from the drone noise. Use any mufflers you want, but I like glasspacks. I'd use 3" core X 36" long like these....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HEART...Q5fAccessories

Use this 8" rebuilt damper on the crank snout. Wrap it with a degreed timing tape after you have verified that the notch on the inertia ring is at absolutely TDC at your timing tab with the #1 piston at TDC.
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHE
Here's a tape for an 8" damper....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/1591/10002/-1
Or use a ProForm damper cover like this....never mind that it says Big Block, it'll fit the 8" damper on your Small Block....
http://paw-engineparts.com/shoppingc...568&catid=1249

On trial assembly, follow the instructions here to make sure the heads and manifold are parallel in both planes. I wrote this for the Crankshaft Coalition wiki....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ak%2C_internal

I'd use a standard GM HEI distributor, although if I started with a used one, I'd tear it down and rebuild it, tightening up the end play.
http://rmcavoy.freeshell.org/HEI.html
Vortec heads have a very efficient chamber, so the motor will not need as much total (initial + centrifugal) ignition lead as other heads. Use an advance curve kit to put 20 degrees centrifugal lead into the distributor and begin your initial advance at 12 degrees BTDC for a total (initial + centrifugal) of 32 degrees BTDC. Dial in a little more at the crank one degree at a time and see if the motor likes it. You shouldn't need more than 34 degrees total with the Vortec chambers. Use a vacuum advance can and connect it to manifold vacuum.

Pin the rocker studs with a Mr Gasket kit....#806G.

If you have any money left over, Scorpion roller rail rockers would be a nice addition. The needle bearing trunnion will lower oil temperature and free up a little hp from reduced friction....#1035
http://scorpionperformance.com/newsi...1_no_%20MD.jpg

On your trial assembly, make sure the pushrods have clearance where they come up through the head, through the full travel of valve lift.

RPM HP TQ
2000 144 378
2500 181 381
3000 231 405
3500 283 425
4000 329 433
4500 361 421
5000 373 391
5500 335 320

Static compression ratio 9.1:1
Dynamic compression ratio 8.08:1
Volumetric efficiency 91.1% @4500
BMEP 183.5 @4000

There now, a nice little high-torque daily driver 355 that should run happily ever after on cat-piss pump gas.