New here / need cam help.

[Jack60]

Have 350, Brodix heads and intake, I wiped #4 exhaust valve cam lobe so need a new cam.
The cam that is in the car now, was in when I bought the car and I don't know brand or grind, {No build sheet with motor} just that it is a solid lifter and would rev to the MSD rev-limiter 7000. It was really too much for the street and that's where my 60 Vette is most of the time.
I was thinking of going to a roller cam because of the new oil not having enough zine, or at lease ISKY special oiling solid lifters, I know it will not rev as high as the old cam but I should have abit more on the lower end.
One problem is my intake is Brodix HVH1003 RPM range 4000-8000, if I put in a more street friendly cam, how bad will my intake hurt me?
When I'm on the highway doing 75 I'm only taching about 1900rpm, have TKO-600 and 3:70 gears
Have not taken her apart yet so I still don't know what cam is in her. Motor was built for reving, Scorpion 1.5 roller rockers and valve train stud girdles.
Thanks for any help....... Jack

[techinspector1]

You need to get inside and take some measurements. If the motor was optimized for the cam that's in it and was meant to run on pump gas, then a change to a milder cam could change the intake closing point enough that you may experience detonation due to the higher cylinder pressure. You must know the static compression ratio before you go changing cams.

[moter]

call crane cams and tell them what is inside the engine,specs on the car itself and they can tell you the best cam to use.

I would not go solid lifter on the cam choice unless you enjoy adjusting valves every month or so.

[Jack60]

You need to get inside and take some measurements. If the motor was optimized for the cam that's in it and was meant to run on pump gas, then a change to a milder cam could change the intake closing point enough that you may experience detonation due to the higher cylinder pressure. You must know the static compression ratio before you go changing cams.

She does run on pump gas {92}. The cam that is in her now ran very strong and still pulled at lower rpm, I just don't want to wipe another cam lobe.
Have you heard anything about ISKY special oiling solid lifters?
I don't mind adjusting valves..

Maybe same cam grind, ISKY special oiling solid lifters and high volume oil pump would do the trick..????

[pat mccarthy]

The cam that is in her now ran very strong and still pulled at lower rpm, I just don't want to wipe another cam lobe.
Have you heard anything about ISKY special oiling solid lifters?
I don't mind adjusting valves..

Maybe same cam grind, ISKY special oiling solid lifters and high volume oil pump would do the trick..????

every one buys there lifters from the same company one or two with a flat ground in the lifter body like the johnson lifters /crower or the EDM hole burned thru the soild lifter body it will added oil on the cam or you can buy the comp cam/ goodson tool that cut a oil groove in the lifter bore . still this may help but there is other things that could be the block and not the cam bad lifter bore or just not a good lifters made from junk iron to coarse of a finsh on the lifter foot or wrong profile on the lifter face not making the lifter spin on solid cams i sanded them with 600 wet dry paper for fast break in.but still do not care for flat lifter cams a roller cam is by far better way to go with bad cams bad lifters bad oil