Thread: Engine Lifting

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Probably thousands of people have done this with success, as long as the bolts are tight. Probably has something to do with some engineering calculation that one of our graduate engineer members could detail. That being said I've just never been excited about the idea and use two lift loops that bolt to the cylinder heads with a sling hooked to each. Just my own bias. Aluminum heads haven't seemed to mind (again, as long as the bolts are tight and have sufficient length to maximize the number of threads of contact).

Sean I used a load distributor bolted to 4 exhaust holes with number 8 bolts and washers. I lifter my 429 out with this setup. It ways 750 lbs approx.
The load leveler lets you angle the engine as it comes out or in, quite nice for 29.00 at HF.

Just remove the studs and put in longer bolts. Ive used those carb hole plates on a BBc with iron heads and it stayed on the hook.

A 1/4-20 bolt G5 has a clamp load of 1,100 lb. G8 1,500 lbf. 4 bolts is plenty. Like Bob said make sure they are tight and use most of the female thread without bottoming out. I would also use a washer under each bolt.

Kitz

I picked up a load distributer like Stovens used for $29 on sale when I went to pick up my wheel dollies that were also on sale, my lucky day!

It just made me feel better but that's good to know if I have to do it again, thanks for the input once again,

Sean

One issue I've had with the load shifter type is interference where the firewall is tight to the back of the engine, just something for folks to be mindful of.