might have to start the new build sooner than expected.. :(

just pulled the truck out to take it for a cruise again.... pulled it out of the garage and did the good ol' routine checks for things, then when i poped the hood, it had one hell of a good sounding knock to it. pulled the valve covers and checked all of the rockers, and they are all good, so while i had them off, i ran it and jumped back up to the engine to get a sound, and it sounded internal.? i couldnt have thrown a rod, seing how it does run good, and it doesnt miss or run weird? correct? also just for shits, i checked the timing. and the instant i threw it on there the mark was WAAAAY high. high as in, i had to bring the light up to 40 ish degrees to get them close. could the cam have jumped a tooth or something?

283 chevy 60 over, gmp vortec heads, proform 1.5 rockers, lunati voodoo cam specs 262/268 duration./ lift 468/489. HEI distributer with flamethrower coil pack and module, the whole shortblock is all stock rebuild parts with about 15k pretty hard miles on them.

timing when last done was *total timing* was set at 32 with the base timing of 11

also, while checking timing, the mark bounces around 3-4 degrees

do you have a gear drive? also your total should be about 34-36.

sorry i didnt inform on that, yes i do have a pete jackson noisy timing gear. when i was setting my timing, it seemed to run a bit better at 32 for total.

i had a gear drive that broke and started skipping 10+ degrees!!!! i put a cloyes tru double roller int here not a problem since, i also have a 283. i was wondering about timing because mine loves 36-38 total. how old is the gear drive?

well thats not a thing to hear! umm, the gear drive along with the whole top end is all about a year old, maybe not even. everything from jegs. we also noticed that the sound was mostly coming from the drivers side, could it be possible that a bearing got messed up and a rod is bouncin around on a pin? im just throwin things out there. or should i just start by pullin my timing cover and check that??

i would pull the timing cover 1st and check around in there. mine lasted about 4 years but we sort of ignored the timing bounce of 3-5 degrees not good. it ended up right before we pulled it out it started jumping 15 degees !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! how hard do you drive it? what kind of fuel do you use. how long did it take the knock to go away? you may want to pull the pan and do a bearing check. my motor didnt have 500 miles on it and it spun the bearings and i only raced it maybe 8 times total of 50 passes maybe? how high do you spin it?............... another thing you can do before you pull the pan is cut your oil filter open and examine it for gold glitter thats copper which means your bearings are not doing to good.

alright well i will deffinetally get around to check it. about once a week i probably run it to an equivelant to 2-3 1/4 mile runs, along with ripping around in town and just racin from block to block with other cars. but i also cruise it around more than that, so basically i like to drive the crap out of my cars. :) umm as for fuel, just the 87 octane cheap stuff, the knock doesnt go away, thats why i just put it back in the garage and wrote this up to see if anyone knew anything i didnt?

umm the short block ive had put together and running for about 4-5 years, and as for how high i spin it, i usually shift around 55-5700 when running the piss out of it.

Tim, before you start tearing things apart I would do one more check. An old mechanic's trick to help locate a possible rod/piston knock noise was to use a pair of insulated spark plug boot pliers, with the engine idling, remove each plug wire, one at a time. If the noise goes away or decreases when you remove a wire, the damage is usually located on that cylinder. Hope this helps.

Mike

Tim, after rereading my post, I should have been a little more specific about removing the plug wire. You only have to remove one end of the wire to kill the spark to the cylinder you want to check, whichever is easiest, either at the dist or the spark plug end. Replace the wire you just checked and move on to the next cylinder. Sorry if the first post was confusing.

Mike

hey, no problem! i will give that a shot as well. thank you!