Thread: piston deck height

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I think that your choice is --have the deck job redone correctly, buy a set of cometic gaskets of the thickness to give you the desired amount of piston to head squish --- or get another block and have it done correctly so you can use normal gaskets

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

I think that your choice is --have the deck job redone correctly, buy a set of cometic gaskets of the thickness to give you the desired amount of piston to head squish --- or get another block and have it done correctly so you can use normal gaskets

yep or skate over the tops of the pistons they are just flat tops have been there done that . but cometic gaskets may be cheaper less you know some one with a mill and the right setup to hold the pistons in the mill i do

Yep , I've got it too

But---If you cut the pistons, the valve notches may need to be deepened and then there is also the balance job

This deck job that will take a .003 between holes sucks---back in the good old days we did a better job than that with a body disc grinder

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Yep , I've got it too

But---If you cut the pistons, the valve notches may need to be deepened and then there is also the balance job

This deck job that will take a .003 between holes sucks---back in the good old days we did a better job than that with a body disc grinder

well i can say that to long big ass file still have it for sleeves . i also have valves with tool steel welded to the face of them to (i did not say that ) but he should not have to cut no more then .010 off the deck and no more then that much off the pistons to get square looking it over i think i could do it less then that but i spend more time then most when i set up my mill for a deck job

You got a lot of snow up there pat?

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

You got a lot of snow up there pat?

had some we have had on off warm weather that has melted some of it if not for that we would of had alot more on the ground .going to be 38 tomorrow

Originally Posted by DennyW

7-12 thousandths. Hell, use a bastard file, then a smooth flat file on those pistons. Your in.

yep bastard you say or a old hoof file a pass or two with one of them he could have domes

I would just use a sawzall with a really fine blade in it and them finish up with some 220 grit sand-paper.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

I would just use a sawzall with a really fine blade in it and them finish up with some 220 grit sand-paper.

so that how you do it all you really have to do is use a red 3m wheel i love the heads or intakes i get were some one use one on and then i mill it flat. i think alot of guys think they can get thing flat with then?

you could say your a cut up erick ..you could do house calls with your sawz all

Originally Posted by DennyW

Wait, he has flat tops....so, if erik uses a sazall, does that make them a crew cut, or a butch ???

i think i would have to look that up in the back yard red neck engine builder hand book .but them there pages were rip out for but wipe so my finale answer would be butch

Originally Posted by erik erikson

I would just use a sawzall with a really fine blade in it and them finish up with some 220 grit sand-paper.

Sounds like a heck of a plan!!! Is my old Makita ok, or should I step up to a Milwaukee????

I got it !!!!!!

He could offset bush the pin end of the rod to make them shorter!!!!!I've make several longer, but never shorter

Thankyou, appreciate the help.

Originally Posted by GMR

Thankyou, appreciate the help.

Well, sometimes we get a bit carried away, like on the Sawzall stuff... Sounds to me like somebody did some block decking and got it all wrong.... If it's not referenced off the crank centerline, chances are it's going to be messed up! Pat's method and machine is IMO the only way to do it right!!!!
There are a number of companies that sell piston holding vises. With one of these and a little time at the mill a first rate machinist can fix up a lot of mistakes !!!!!