Thread: Engine Break-In Oil/Procedures

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Originally Posted by PLANETGETLOW

I didn't notice any stickies that outline this so I thought I'd ask here.

I have a rebuilt 283 (stock w/mild cam) that has only a small bit of idle time on it.

What type of oil should I use? For how long and when to change?

How should I run the engine? Idle......between certain speeds?

Thanks in advance

I would run either GM EOS or Crane cam break in additive.

Use Crane 99003-1. GM has discontinued their EOS.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Use Crane 99003-1. GM has discontinued their EOS.

Richard,are you sure about the EOS??
I was told it was just re-packaged.

Lubricants | Vehicle Care Products | Parts Information | ACDelco

Select EOS on the drop down menu.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

I would run either GM EOS or Crane cam break in additive.

Dumb question time.... Do the hydraulic roller cam and lifters require anything special, or can you just treat them like a mechanical roller setup?????

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Dumb question time.... Do the hydraulic roller cam and lifters require anything special, or can you just treat them like a mechanical roller setup?????

Dave,you can treat them just like a mech. roller cam.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

Dave,you can treat them just like a mech. roller cam.

Thanks Erik, I keep looking at the hydraulic rollers....... Must be the geezer in me, but I'm still reluctant to run anything in my valve train that has hydraulic in the part name!!!!!!


Oh yeah, one of the locals wiped out his brand new Crane cam and lifters on Sunday, said it took him awhile to get the timing and idle mixture set......ran the brand new cam and lifters at 800rpm for about 15 minutes while he was messing around..... Wiped out two lobes.... Surprise, Surprise, huh??? Of course he was at the parts store first thing Monday morning screaming at Tommy about honoring the "warranty". He lost....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Thanks Erik, I keep looking at the hydraulic rollers....... Must be the geezer in me, but I'm still reluctant to run anything in my valve train that has hydraulic in the part name!!!!!!

There are a lot of varibiles but I.M.O. 6,500 rpm's about max. rpm.
After 6,500 I would go mech. roller.
There have been some Ford guys with beehive springs, hollow stem valves etc. hitting 7,000 rpms but it would make me nervous.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

There are a lot of varibiles but I.M.O. 6,500 rpm's about max. rpm.
After 6,500 I would go mech. roller.
There have been some Ford guys with beehive springs, hollow stem valves etc. hitting 7,000 rpms but it would make me nervous.

I've never trusted those beehive springs....spring seat cutters just aren't that expensive!!!! I've heard the light valves/hydraulic roller argument too, Erik.... Just can't quite buy into it. Guess I'd rather have an engine I know the valve train is going to get a big hiccup if I occasionally buzz it a bit past 6500.... I never thought popping the covers and running the valves was that big of a deal...heck, what else would you do on Sunday mornings????? '

IMO the mechanical rollers still offer so much more in cam selection, increased ramp speeds, and under the curve power.... The idea of spending all that money and having a cam that is "almost right" just doesn't work for me..... But then most of my cam education came back a decade or two ago......

im very new to engine building/installing and have a question im buying a 350 4 bolt main from oreillys and i wanted to know am i going to have to do break in on it?

Originally Posted by DennyW

Bob, that's not the same stuff. Here is what it says:

Part 10-106
12371532
E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant (1 pint)

Is specially formulated as an engine assembly lubricant
Provides protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing
Is not recommended for use as an additive for engine oil

Corporate CYA