283 engine suggestions...

Hey, new here and to SB chevies. I just inherited a mint '57 Chevy 2dr hard top. Factory original PowerPac 283. I'd like to bump the power up a bit along with making it suitable for unleaded gas.

I do know the factory rated this engine with 9.5 compression and 56-61cc heads.

Questions:

1) I figure the small bore cannot handle a 2.02 valve. How about a 1.94 valve??

2) Should I just have exhaust seats put in the original heads or go with something else like a 461 head or 041 head?? I'm thinking just a clean up and seats on my 283 heads would be enough.

The factory rated this at 220hp and 300 lb/ft of torque. That seems optimistic at best. I do think that with a cam, intake, carb, and head work/swap I could equal that if not pass it up.

Thoughts????

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Originally Posted by turbolc2

Hey, new here and to SB chevies. I just inherited a mint '57 Chevy 2dr hard top. Factory original PowerPac 283. I'd like to bump the power up a bit along with making it suitable for unleaded gas.

I do know the factory rated this engine with 9.5 compression and 56-61cc heads.

Questions:

1) I figure the small bore cannot handle a 2.02 valve. How about a 1.94 valve??

2) Should I just have exhaust seats put in the original heads or go with something else like a 461 head or 041 head?? I'm thinking just a clean up and seats on my 283 heads would be enough.

The factory rated this at 220hp and 300 lb/ft of torque. That seems optimistic at best. I do think that with a cam, intake, carb, and head work/swap I could equal that if not pass it up.

Thoughts????

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Hello and welcome.
Is this a numbers matching car??

283 can take 2.02intake 1.60exhaust valves the stock bore size is 3.875 and when you ad the valve sizes together they come out 3.62 which leaves you a 1/4 inch of clearance 0.255 so you'd be safe on that part some guys run them right to the max on race engines. you can also bore it 0.125 to make it a 4.00 bore a 302cid but its hard to find pistons for the 283 and the 302. but i know guys to cheat it by using 327 or 350 pistons and then have to find longer connecting rods cause of the differences in the pin hieght. but stock they all use 5.7 rods you can even talk to a old man machinist at your local machine shop and he could help you with what your looking to do and point you in the right direction. and your heads have to be redone for unleaded gas but they do make lead subsitute additive think about the guys who restore their cars to origonal. so you really do have some options but over all its your choice on what you want to do and how much you want to spend. but 350's are the most popular and little bit cheaper to build if you want to go that route. alot of people on this site will tell you to just build a 350 or 383 but its your car and its your choice what you want to do with it :)

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Originally Posted by erik erikson

Hello and welcome.
Is this a numbers matching car??

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Yes it is. The engine has never been touched in 50 years.

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Originally Posted by speedy5579

283 can take 2.02intake 1.60exhaust valves the stock bore size is 3.875 and when you ad the valve sizes together they come out 3.62 which leaves you a 1/4 inch of clearance 0.255 so you'd be safe on that part some guys run them right to the max on race engines. you can also bore it 0.125 to make it a 4.00 bore a 302cid but its hard to find pistons for the 283 and the 302. but i know guys to cheat it by using 327 or 350 pistons and then have to find longer connecting rods cause of the differences in the pin hieght. but stock they all use 5.7 rods you can even talk to a old man machinist at your local machine shop and he could help you with what your looking to do and point you in the right direction. and your heads have to be redone for unleaded gas but they do make lead subsitute additive think about the guys who restore their cars to origonal. so you really do have some options but over all its your choice on what you want to do and how much you want to spend. but 350's are the most popular and little bit cheaper to build if you want to go that route. alot of people on this site will tell you to just build a 350 or 383 but its your car and its your choice what you want to do with it

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Trust me a I know a 350 would be cheaper and probably easier. Will a 350 use the same motor mounts as the 283?? I also don't want a tire shredder. I think the tire size is 5.50ish. I think a warm 283 could cause problems for a tiny tire like that... :D

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Originally Posted by turbolc2

Yes it is. The engine has never been touched in 50 years.



Trust me a I know a 350 would be cheaper and probably easier. Will a 350 use the same motor mounts as the 283?? I also don't want a tire shredder. I think the tire size is 5.50ish. I think a warm 283 could cause problems for a tiny tire like that... :D

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Yes,the 350 will use the same mounts.
If it is numbers matching then I say keep the 283 in the corner and build a 350/383.

well are you looking to rod it or keep it origonal? as far as a tire shredder it all depends on the driver burning the tires off :) but if your looking to keep it origonal rebuild the 283 and use a cam in the high 260's or low 270's duration 1500 - 5500 rpm range. an all matching number car is worthe more than one tinkered with watch barret jackson car search on the speed chanel once. But its up to you and what you want to do with it. Let me ask you this are you looking to rod it or looking to do it origonal? But i'd say if your going to rod it a little and leave the option of going origonal swap the 283 for a mild built 350 4bolt main from a 70's or early 80's 4x4 chev truck 2peace rear main seal avoid ones with the oil dipstick on the passenger side they are either a 305 or a late 350 but try to find one with the dipstick on the drivers side watch out for a 307 chev. but then your going to run into wiring and waterpump issues cause on them old motors they used the short style pump and after a certain year they used the long style and as far as wiring you'll have to use the altinator and distributor from the 283. is it 12 or 6 volt? or you could just have the 350 long block and put on all the stuff from the 283 so it looks like a 283 (brackets, pulleys, oil pan, valve covers,waterpump, intake, ect.) it'll be a sleeper then you'll pop the hood and people will think its a 283 from the looks of it.

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Originally Posted by speedy55779

avoid ones with the oil dipstick on the passenger side they are either a 305 or a late 350 but try to find one with the dipstick on the drivers side watch out for a 307 chev.

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So, I'm confused. What's the deal wrong with the 307?

there is nothing wrong with a 307 but i just simply said watch out for a 307 incase he buys a 307 thinking its a 350. he won't be gaining much with a 307 all it is - is a 283 block with a 327 crank (a stroked 283) with the large journals

Being that it is stone stock, the engine mount is a cradle mount bolted to the front of the block, the generator is bolted to the left (drivers side) exhaust manifold and if it has power steering the pump is bolted to the back of the generator. I don't remember the original tire size but it should be somewhere around 6.95's. If it's an automatic it should be a cast iron powerglide and in their stock form they're not real receptive to large cams.
The power pack option included a Carter WCFB and better heads than it's 2 barrel cousins. A triangle cast into the end of the heads identify them as power pack heads.

I think if you are just looking for a bit more power . And want a set of heads with steel valve seats . Go with the World S/R 305 heads # 042650-1. They have 58cc chambers with 1.94/1.50 valves and HD springs with screw in studs . The heads that are on your car now have 1.72/1.50 valves . I do think the 1.94/1.50 valve will be big enough for any street / strip 283 build . If you want to up-date the intake/carb . Go with that Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane #2701 and a Holley 570 V/S Avenger . I would also go with an HEI Distributor . If you want to push this engine to 300 hp . Change the Camshaft . I would run the Lunati Voodoo #60100LK . This will be a good street cam . This cam is 207/213 dur at 050 with 437/454 lift . I do think you will be happy with this set up on your 1957 Chevy . COOL

good god people :LOL: always telling people to build what they DONT have, if you wanna do it and cheaply at that , bore it .060 over to a 292 use a set of 1.94 1.6 heads use hardened seats for the gas issue. rum a performer rpm w/ a 600 holley and a280h comp cams and go drive the car it will run fine! trust me!

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

good god people :LOL: always telling people to build what they DONT have, if you wanna do it and cheaply at that , bore it .060 over to a 292 use a set of 1.94 1.6 heads use hardened seats for the gas issue. rum a performer rpm w/ a 600 holley and a280h comp cams and go drive the car it will run fine! trust me!

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This 57 Chevy most likely has a 308 rear end and a PG or a 3 speed . It's a street car . And that 280H Cam is 230 dur at 050 with 480 lift . If he puts that cam in that 283 even if he bored it 60 over and it did not sound like he wanted to do that . His car would be a DOG :HMMM:

well then put some 4:11's in it. you know me i love gears :D

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

well then put some 4:11's in it. you know me i love gears :D

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I like that idea a TH350 3400 stall with a 411 . Now that will work with the 280H ;)

the last 301 was 11:1 cast pistons un touched 1.94 1.5 heads <291s> performer rpm holley 600 456 gears t-350 <cannot remember the stall> would run 13.1 all day long at 100 mph :D

I like 283 engines the 60 over build with say 10.1 C/R Would work good for a street/strip car . But you know that most guys will go with the 350-30 over . That's a big car the 350s Torque sure will help out .

The guy's not trying to launch the space shuttle. He wants better performance from his set up. Who's going to apologise to him and pay for his rear end when he blows it up with your greedy combos. Didn't think about that huh? And to utilize all the dreamy stuff that has been suggested it will not perform with the stock cast iron glide he has. It was a different monster than the usable later model glide. How about usable ideas for his ride? He wouldn't be wanting to keep a stock looking bias ply tire on it if he wanted brute force under the hood.

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Originally Posted by tango

I think if you are just looking for a bit more power . And want a set of heads with steel valve seats . Go with the World S/R 305 heads # 042650-1. They have 58cc chambers with 1.94/1.50 valves and HD springs with screw in studs . The heads that are on your car now have 1.72/1.50 valves . I do think the 1.94/1.50 valve will be big enough for any street / strip 283 build . If you want to up-date the intake/carb . Go with that Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane #2701 and a Holley 570 V/S Avenger . I would also go with an HEI Distributor . If you want to push this engine to 300 hp . Change the Camshaft . I would run the Lunati Voodoo #60100LK . This will be a good street cam . This cam is 207/213 dur at 050 with 437/454 lift . I do think you will be happy with this set up on your 1957 Chevy . COOL

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This is a usable set up . :cool:

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

good god people :LOL: always telling people to build what they DONT have, if you wanna do it and cheaply at that , bore it .060 over to a 292 use a set of 1.94 1.6 heads use hardened seats for the gas issue. rum a performer rpm w/ a 600 holley and a280h comp cams and go drive the car it will run fine! trust me!

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The reason I said 350/383 was so if he wanted to keep the car all orginal he could buy just putting the 283 back in.

I'd have to go with Erik, take all the OEM stuff and put it in the corner all wrapped up in plastic with the insides all oiled up against corrosion and KEEP IT!!!!!! Build what you want after to run in the car but the car in it's original state with original components could be named "RETIREMENT FUND"!!!!!!!!!

Put you a Small journal 327 crank in there then you'll have stroker.

I'm really liking the GM 290 horse 350. I thought the rear gears were 3.55 stock. Yes it does have a cast iron P.G.

Like some have said, I want to keep the originality to the car which means no cutting or welding. That is why I am concerned with the 350 using my 283 motor mounts. I don't have a problem with using a different transmission, even though I would probably still go with an aluminum P.G.

I just want to pop the hood and have it look 1957. A little bit more power would be nice. To be honest, the car may be big but it doesn't feel all that heavy. The stock 283 will get it up to 80 pretty good. :D

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Originally Posted by turbolc2

I just want to pop the hood and have it look 1957.

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That's easy, I'll get the water hose!

http://www.iht.com/articles/ap/2007/...Buried-Car.php

yep, sell me the 283 ANOTHER :lol:

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

yep, sell me the 283 ANOTHER :lol:

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You,don't need it.
You have a 550+ HP 496 BBC to build.:D

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Originally Posted by Racecar100

Put you a Small journal 327 crank in there then you'll have stroker.

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Then you will have a S/J 307 :HMMM:

Lowest gears stock for these cars was 3:55, also had 3:70 and lower. You should keep the stock motor as mentioned. These cars apreciate in value especially as folks hot rod the origanal engines and blow them up. Not too many original engines or transmisions around. The last SJ 327 and SJ 265 I paid $150 for. Get somthing like that, build it and don't worry about if it comes apart.

I am with Eric and Dave on this one. Take the original engine and trans and keep them carefully and safely stored. Change to a mild 350 with auto trans, but don't cut anything! No floor shifter either. The SBC still has bosses on the front of the block that will work with the original front mount 283. If you decide to add side mounts, try to do it in a way that future removal is possible. I found a 57 2dr hardtop with newer 283. Still, not original is not original. The 1957 283 was the only year block made without side mount bosses cast in. Better yet, keep it as is and find something else to play with. If you have a heavy foot, you'll be looking for a new original rear end as well!! Those original finds are worth so much now. There is a Chevy Talk forum you may want to google and ask some questions over there. They have a tri-five section for original stock as well as rodded tri's.
And concratulations on your score!

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Originally Posted by erik erikson

You,don't need it.
You have a 550+ HP 496 BBC to build.:D

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tone it down erick i shouldnt need 550+ horse to run 11's in a light nova?????:LOL: course them big blocks are kinna funny an all:whacked:

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

tone it down erick i shouldnt need 550+ horse to run 11's in a light nova?????:LOL: course them big blocks are kinna funny an all:whacked:

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You might not need it but you will have it if you build it the right way with-out any problems.

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Originally Posted by drofdar

The 1957 283 was the only year block made without side mount bosses cast in.

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None of the sbc's until "58 had side mount bosses cast in and the half ton truck used the front saddle mount until '63.

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Originally Posted by NTFDAY

None of the sbc's until "58 had side mount bosses cast in and the half ton truck used the front saddle mount until '63.

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actually ain't it 68 or 69? cause i had pulled out a 307 thinking it was a 327 and it had the front saddle mount and 2 side mounts off the bellhousing i remember cause i had planned to take the bellhousing to but ended up pulling all 7 bolts (it had the one straight down from the distributor) to seperate the block from the bellhousing. it was a 67 1/2 ton stepside short box? with a 3 on the tree.

Don't know, everything I've seen after '62 was side mount.

We're talking 1957 original 283 here. Before 57 was the 265. You are correct that they were front mount also. But as for 283, the only year without side mount was the 1957 block. 1958 and later 283 had the side mounts cast in. So, he has great value with that motor in that car. It's really hard to find the correct stuff to get it truly original again. I would love to have his engine trans combo for my 57. Since I don't I plan to do a mild rod build. But if it was all original I would never touch it. Or at least get another complete engine/trans to play with.

I have to agree with pulling the original drivetrain and preserving it. I'd even go so far as to swap in a 9in rear just to keep the original safe. Almost any small block-auto trans combo can be slipped in without having to hack anything, and with a little cosmetic work can be made to look like the original was still there. Just a thought, Hank