350 with 4 deuces, help build

I see my original post may have been lost, A couple of you were helping me build a 350 for my 32 Roadster, as I am not an engine guy. So here goes again from the start.

I have a 350 bored 60 over, stock cam, I have a set of 58cc heads and a set of 76cc heads. I would like this to run on pump gas without any worries if that possible with 4x2s. I have a Weiand 4x2 manifold I want to run strombergs on (looking for those also). I would like to use what I have without spending a bunch on aftermarket heads, I have some cash for a cam so recomendations would be appeciated. Other heads arent out as long as I can find them for a couple hundred bucks. I am going to run a 700r4 trans, and the rear end is a 3.00 ration from a Maverick. This is going to be a cruiser, Im not looking for big HP, just something fun. Thanks in advance to any input.

Like before go with the 882 heads with a mild porting and a .019 head gasket . And for the Cam the Crane Energizer 274H it's 218 dur at 050 with 454 lift and has a 110 lobe sep . Also a Pertronix Plug n play High top Distributor . The HEI type most likely will not clear you carbs .

I sthis the cam you talked about in the previous message that came with springs for 100.00? Where again do I find this deal?

On where to buy, I try to support my local speed shops when I can. When the deal gets too good though I use Summit Racing or Jegs or Speedway motors. Speedway is more of a rodder shopping place though. Usually cannot beat Summit or Jegs and often shipping is free.

Kitz

well i see tango is tryin to copy my side of the story but anyways i did some research and alot of math. i read the ccing to compression ratio from my book pg136 - pg140 (Engine Blueprinting By Rick Voegelin) and a 350 bored to 4.060 with a 3.480 stroke and .020 head gasket, 15cc dished pistons, stock .015 deck hieght, and cylinder swept volume which is 738.26cc's from TDC to BDC in your 350 which is actually a 360 now.
but what i came up with using those numbers
76cc - 8.5:1
72cc - 8.82:1
67cc - 9.26:1
64cc - 9.55:1
62cc - 9.75:1 (305 head)
58cc - 10.19:1(305 H.O head)
and the cam i found is at http://www.northernautoparts.com or call 1-800-831-0884 it was the ELGIN cam & lifters part #CL1065PK for $89.99 with recomended crane's valve springs part # 99848-16 $61.99
its identical to crane's enegizer cam. part #100052
1500 - 5500 RPM range 272dur 216@.050 110deg lob sep .454Int/.454Exh lift. Also the same as Comp Cams 268H part # CL12-210-2 which is more spendy than ELGIN and Crane.

headcc + piston dishcc + head gasketcc + deck hieghtcc + cylinder sweptcc

(76cc + 15cc + 4.24cc + 3.09cc + 738.26cc) / (76cc + 15cc + 4.24cc + 3.09cc) 836.59cc / 98.33 = 8.5 :1 for 76cc with 4.060 bore and 3.48 stroke with 15cc dished pistons

to get cylinder swept volume (bore size divide it by 2) take your answer x bore size x stroke x 51.48 = cylinder swept volume in cc's

You can try that math all you want . And still you will not have it right on . What about the -010 to -020 Cylinder head clean up cut ? And are you 100% sure on the dish of that piston ? It will be over 8.75.1 really ! What if the block is decked to 0 ? Or the heads have flat face valves or dished valves ? To do your math you need to know all the right #s .

The original Camshaft that I picked was from www.competitionproducts.com It is a Cam kit . This Cam is a better cam then the Energizer 274H for your build . The Cam I first talked about is a dual-pattern cam That will give you more Torque then that single-pattern Energizer . That first Camshaft was a 214/224 dur at 050 with 444/465 lift and a 112 L/C . The Complete Cam Kit is a part # E922K . This kit comes with Cam and lifters / A set of Z-28 valve springs / heat-treated steel valve locks / high grade Umbrella valve seals / And assembiy lube . The cost of this kit is $129.95 . That's a good deal and I have used this cam set in a 350 like yours . And it raged on the street in a 1978 Z-28 with a stock converter and a 342 gear . Also that Crane 272H cam is 218dur at 050 the Comp cams 268H is 216dur at 050 Both are 454 lift near the same but not the same . The single -pattern that is one up on both of them is . The Speed-pro CS1169R it's 218dur at 050 with 458 lift and a 110 C/L and cost $54.13 . Go with the Dual-pattern cam you will make more HP and Torque it is the better street cam . COOL

i think tango just likes to argue and piss people off tryin to be better than anyone else . when he origonally wrote >> Like before go with the 882 heads with a mild porting and a .019 head gasket . And for the Cam the Crane Energizer 274H it's 218 dur at 050 with 454 lift and has a 110 lobe sep . Also a Pertronix Plug n play High top Distributor . The HEI type most likely will not clear you carbs .
But your on your own StreetRod listen to who you want but i'm done here and you have my info.

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Originally Posted by speedy55779

i think tango just likes to argue and piss people off tryin to be better than anyone else . when he origonally wrote >> Like before go with the 882 heads with a mild porting and a .019 head gasket . And for the Cam the Crane Energizer 274H it's 218 dur at 050 with 454 lift and has a 110 lobe sep . Also a Pertronix Plug n play High top Distributor . The HEI type most likely will not clear you carbs .
But your on your own StreetRod listen to who you want but i'm done here and you have my info.

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In no-way I want to argue or piss any one off :( But I do re-member in the original post I did talk about this cheaper dual-pattern Camshaft . That Crane Energizer 274H is also a good street cam . But the dual-pattern cam will really work better then the Energizer 274H for this build . And as for C/R . It's best to know what your Ex.act CCs of your heads after milling and piston -dish CCs and deck hight and compressed head gasket thickness . Only Then you can do the C/R math and be accurate . :HMMM: COOL

I have a line also on a set of 461 heads double bump 62cc. Would that be of any benefit?

Over boring is capable of causing over heating problems. Cylinders are precision cast for location, this means that the more precise the casting the less wall thickness is needed for the cylinders. The small blocks are a case in point, being capable of only .030 safe over boring with out sonic testing. At .030 over many blocks will have less than .100 wall thickness left in some areas. Consider these areas to be suspect for hot spots, as many blocks have lost wall thickness over the years to water jacket rusting. Im not saying that over boring can not go past .030, I am saying better safe then sorry to have it checked before building the .060 over block and discover this after the fact, but without regard for verifying wall thickness, .030 should be the maximum for a safe buil that will see alot of extended period cruise time.

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Originally Posted by mooneye777

Over boring is capable of causing over heating problems. Cylinders are precision cast for location, this means that the more precise the casting the less wall thickness is needed for the cylinders. The small blocks are a case in point, being capable of only .030 safe over boring with out sonic testing. At .030 over many blocks will have less than .100 wall thickness left in some areas. Consider these areas to be suspect for hot spots, as many blocks have lost wall thickness over the years to water jacket rusting. Im not saying that over boring can not go past .030, I am saying better safe then sorry to have it checked before building the .060 over block and discover this after the fact, but without regard for verifying wall thickness, .030 should be the maximum for a safe buil that will see alot of extended period cruise time.

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It really depends on the year of the block.
Early 350 blocks have plenty of material to go .060 with out any problems.
Please keep in mind this is only .030 on either side of the bore.
If it was a 400 block that was .060 then I would have it sonic tested.

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Originally Posted by speedy55779

headcc + piston dishcc + head gasketcc + deck hieghtcc + cylinder sweptcc

(76cc + 15cc + 4.24cc + 3.09cc + 738.26cc) / (76cc + 15cc + 4.24cc + 3.09cc) 836.59cc / 98.33 = 8.5 :1 for 76cc with 4.060 bore and 3.48 stroke with 15cc dished pistons

to get cylinder swept volume (bore size divide it by 2) take your answer x bore size x stroke x 51.48 = cylinder swept volume in cc's

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CR = SWEPT VOL. + TDC. VOL. DIVIDE BY TDC VOL.

SWEPT VOL.= 3.1416 X BORE X BORE X STROKE DIVIDE BY 4.

TDC VOL. = CYL. HEAD VOL. + GASKET VOL. + DECK VOL. + PISTON DISH OR DOME VOL.

GASKET VOL. =3.1416 X GASKET BORE X GASKET BORE X COMPRESSED GASKET THICKNESS DIVIDE BY 4.

DECK VOL. = 3.1416 X BORE X BORE X DECK CLEARANCE DIVIDE BY 4.

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Originally Posted by streetrod

I have a line also on a set of 461 heads double bump 62cc. Would that be of any benefit?

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The Fuelly heads are 64CC . But after the clean up cut they most likely had . They are at 62CCs . They will work good . Use a .041 head gasket . You should be just over 9.5.1 . Only thing with the fuellys is most of them do not have the Bolt holes in the front off the heads . What # heads are they ? The #186 and #041 heads have the bolt holes . You most likely will have to run 89 Fuel but you will have more power . COOL

How about the old 300 horse 350 cam with a clean up cut on the 76cc heads and enjoy the driving!!!!

The guys not going racing, just wants a driver.... Save the engineering and arguing for all the guys who THINK they need the extra 5 horsepower on the street!!!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Besides, you're going to have your hands full getting them 4 Strombergs synchronized, no reason to compound the problems!!!!! Keep it simple!!!!!

That's really not a bad idea . The 300 HP cam is 195/202 dur at 050 with 390/410 lift and 112 L/C . I have used them in 350s with headers and Dual plane High rises and ran low 15teens in 3700 lbs cars .

put a set of 186's on it, bore it .60 put a 4 speed in it and go have fun! dont forget the 456 gears:D

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

put a set of 186's on it, bore it .60 put a 4 speed in it and go have fun! dont forget the 456 gears:D

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And the high grade fuel :HMMM:

I like Dave Seversons idea. I dont need an extra couple hp, just want something that is gonna run and idle good, I have always said I dont need big HP. Is that the best route to go as far as cams?

"300 HP cam is 195/202 dur at 050 with 390/410 lift and 112 L/C"

Is there one that comes with lifters and springs??

and high grade fuel is really that big of a deal? mine has to use trick thats just the way it is! they wouldnt sell it, if people didnt need it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

and high grade fuel is really that big of a deal? mine has to use trick thats just the way it is! they wouldnt sell it, if people didnt need it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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ON,NO!!
HERE WE GO AGAIN!!!:whacked:

hey id use e85 if i could find it!

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Originally Posted by streetrod

I like Dave Seversons idea. I dont need an extra couple hp, just want something that is gonna run and idle good, I have always said I dont need big HP. Is that the best route to go as far as cams?

"300 HP cam is 195/202 dur at 050 with 390/410 lift and 112 L/C"

Is there one that comes with lifters and springs??

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Here is a cam kit for you . It's a Elgin #E860SK it's $129.95. This camshaft is 202/207 dur at .050 and 404/414 lift with a 114 L/C . This kit comes with lifters springs locks seals lube . Also pick up 2 head gaskets Victor #5746 $14.95 ea . They are .026 compressed and will seal better then steel shim type .Also Match the ports on the heads you are using to the intake gaskets . With small tube headers This set up will make around 290 HP at 4900 and near 400lbs of Torque at 2500 . You can buy the parts from www.competitionproducts.com You could pick up 20 more HP by pocket porting the heads you use . COOL