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So I'm going to put 7/16" screw in studs in some 2.02 1.6 fuelie heads. Anybody ever do this themselves? I know it's better to take it to a machine shop and have it done but I was just quoted $180 for this. I'd rather buy a set of aftermarket heads.
So... does anyone have any recommendations on which studs are the easiest to install? And without the use of a machine shop?
How do you plan to mill down the stud "boss" for the guide plates?Quote:
Originally Posted by 69elko
$180 is a good price.
Thanks Erik, didn't think about that. $180 is with me taking out the old pressed-in studs.
ARP does make a screw-in stud with-out a shoulder on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 69elko
I can't remember if you need to machine the stud boss down for these.
You could always call ARP and find out.
$180 is still cheap, a machine shop will mill the boss, Redrill the holes, tap the threads for the studs, and install the studs. This usually come with warrenty! Not to mention 461 casting are darn good production heads, I used them on my dirt car for years. ALWAYS DEPENDABLE! just my buck 38, inflation you know.
MR Gasket makes a stud that can be used with out milling the bosses down . If you use this set up you can not run guide plates . You also can buy a jig tool to drill and tap the stud holes at home . COOL done it on fuellys .
Also on junk 305 heads that I used on a 327 build . I pinned the studs . But I would not do this to a set of fuellys .
I'm not a real big fan of Mr. Gasket stuff. Especially wouldn't trust them with valvetrain components. It looks like they only are listed with 3/8" bolts anyways. I'm looking for 7/16". I couldn't find an ARP part# listed that doesn't take guideplates on the Summit website either. I'll keep looking.
For many years we used MR Gasket bolts . Long before ARP was around . From head bolts SPS rod bolts screw in studs and engine bolt kits . They use grade 8 bolts . And the screw in stud are 7/16-14 at the mounting . 3/8 at the rocker ball . I am installing a set in a pair of 1969 #186 fuellys . And have used them before with a 525 lift cam . They are all that you will need and only $30.00 bucks . Just think of all the Vortec heads running on SB Chevys with the pressed in 3/8s studs ?
Comp makes all the tools you need to completely machine a set of heads yourself. If you're only doing one set though, it doesn't pay. I have about $200.00 tied up in the tools to cut the bosses down, cut the spring seats, remove and tap the stud bosses, cut down the guide bosses, and the Louis tool to elongate the pushrod slots. I've done a few sets for myself and I charge $100.00 to others that I know and like.
Yes,the SPS bolts where good ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
The reason why I want to get 7/16" studs is because I have a nice set of Crower full roller rockers I want to use, they are 1.65 ratio. I want to pair them up with a smaller cam on a 400 small block in order to make BIG lowend power. It will be done making power at 5500rpm but it should make close to 500lbs of torque at very low rpm. I could use 3/8" studs but all I have for that is some 1.52 comp roller tip rockers.Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
Then again, I could use the 3/8" Mr. Gasket studs, put them in myself. And with the $180 I saved in labor I could buy a set of Harland Sharp 1.65 rockers for $225 on a 3/8 stud. That works too...
Do the heads your self . Also port them and hand lap all the valves . And set up the spring hight your self . Its a lot of fun . The first set of heads that I did at home were ported 60 hours . Man when I started that SB 350 it sounded like a 454 . I did a burn out in front of the house . It looked like some one painted two 120 FT 10" black lines . That was COOL :cool:
An I missing something here ??? What was Fuel Injected in 1969 ?Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
Bob
Have someone with tool grinder to ground you a Pilot on the tap just help you start thread true straight.
Nuttin-- but the heads were:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob W