350 To 383 Step Up,

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10-09-2007, 09:24 PM
SMOKEDOG7142000

350 To 383 Step Up,

Ive Got A Few Questions.i Had A 350 In My 78 Nova.over The Past 2 Years I Upgraded Everything From And Including The Heads On Up.i Jumped The Gun And Took It To The Strip Before It Was Finished And Ended Up Limping Home.i Was Using The Column Shifter And About 2 Seconds Pulling Hard In Second Gear I Bumped It Into Low:cry: Accidental,and Still Cant Figure Out Exactly What.....anyway,the Tach Jumped Way Past My Shift Point And Even Though I Got Out Of It As Soon As It Happened,the Damage Was Done.i Have Since Installed The B&m Floorshifter And Added That Little Rev Control,both Of Which Should Have Been In Before I Left The Garage.lesson Learned! Im Now Building The 383.i Have Had All The Machine Work Done And I Am Ready To Assemble.using Black Hypers,what Rings Should I Go With And What Gaps? Main And Rod Bearings,what Have You Guys Had Luck With?what Are Acceptable Clearances,better Yet ,what Would You Run Them At For This Engine.is The 83 A Better Drag Engine For My Nova,with The Internal Parts Specs Close To Each Other?and Last,would A Solid Lifter,non Roller,cam Step Up Performance Or Would Hydraulic Set Just As Well? Sorry,didnt Mean To Drag This Out This Long,ive Heard Many Horror Stories About The Rings And Clearance Issues,i Just Wanted The Groups Expert Advice.thanks To All In Advance.......
10-10-2007, 06:34 AM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMOKEDOG7142000

Ive Got A Few Questions.i Had A 350 In My 78 Nova.over The Past 2 Years I Upgraded Everything From And Including The Heads On Up.i Jumped The Gun And Took It To The Strip Before It Was Finished And Ended Up Limping Home.i Was Using The Column Shifter And About 2 Seconds Pulling Hard In Second Gear I Bumped It Into Low:cry: Accidental,and Still Cant Figure Out Exactly What.....anyway,the Tach Jumped Way Past My Shift Point And Even Though I Got Out Of It As Soon As It Happened,the Damage Was Done.i Have Since Installed The B&m Floorshifter And Added That Little Rev Control,both Of Which Should Have Been In Before I Left The Garage.lesson Learned! Im Now Building The 383.i Have Had All The Machine Work Done And I Am Ready To Assemble.using Black Hypers,what Rings Should I Go With And What Gaps? Main And Rod Bearings,what Have You Guys Had Luck With?what Are Acceptable Clearances,better Yet ,what Would You Run Them At For This Engine.is The 83 A Better Drag Engine For My Nova,with The Internal Parts Specs Close To Each Other?and Last,would A Solid Lifter,non Roller,cam Step Up Performance Or Would Hydraulic Set Just As Well? Sorry,didnt Mean To Drag This Out This Long,ive Heard Many Horror Stories About The Rings And Clearance Issues,i Just Wanted The Groups Expert Advice.thanks To All In Advance.......

Number one.Follow the piston makers specs. when it comes to ring end gap.
I think the $40 set of moly rings are fine for what you are doing.
I.M.O.,I would never run a set of hyper pistons in any drag car.
They are fine in a 400 hp street car.
I like the old Michigan 77 bearings.
If this is a "drag only " 383 I would run 2.50 to 2.75 thousands'ths on the steel rods.
I would run 3.0 to 3.25 thousands'ths on the mains.
I would try and run 18-20 thousand'ths rod side to side.
I would try and run a min. of 7 thousand'ths crank thrust.
10-12 if you are running a "brake" or leaving at 5,000 with a manual.
A mechanical roller cam will always make more hp than a hyd. stick.
In my first post I had posted the wrong rod and main clearance.
I had posted them for a pro-street application.Sorry.
10-10-2007, 10:12 AM
BigTruckDriver

Why would rod and main clearances be different for pro street?
10-10-2007, 12:50 PM
erik erikson

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

Why would rod and main clearances be different for pro street?

I.M.O.,I don't think there is any reason to run a pro-street aplication as loose.
Most of the pro-street engines I build don't see 8,000 rpm's and more than 10 to 1 for a comp. ratio.
10-10-2007, 06:12 PM
Bodacious

Please go here K-B and study carefully to determine the correct end gaps for your K-B hypers, which I'm assuming is the piston you were referring to. Proper ring gap is critical for these. Too close and you will melt them down in short order. They run wider gaps than would be considered conventional for most other pistons in a similar combination. I used them in a stock bore 350 build and the gaps were .026" top and .018" for the 2nd ring. I would not be concerned with using them in a properly built engine that made 450 CHP or a bit beyond. The 350 I used them in made 370 at the rear wheels and was a good, reliable street engine that was also raced.
10-10-2007, 08:53 PM
SMOKEDOG7142000

Thanks A Million For The Advice!!! A Question On The Pistons,are Hypers Not That Great Or Is It That Forged Will Give Less Headaches Down The Road? The Car Will Be Driven To The Strip For Now,gettin The Trailer After January.thanks Again!!!!
10-11-2007, 03:03 AM
Billy'sWilly's

When you get your Keith Black Pistons there will be instruction in there for what to set the Top Piston ring gap at
10-12-2007, 08:37 PM
SMOKEDOG7142000

Thanks For The Kb Site Bodacious!! Learned A Whole Lot Of Little Tips That Will Keep This Engine Running Right.thanks 2 All Who Shared Their Expertice.now I Just Hope Goin Up To The 383 Will Make A Noted Difference In Power And Performance!
10-13-2007, 06:06 AM
Bodacious

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMOKEDOG7142000

Thanks A Million For The Advice!!! A Question On The Pistons,are Hypers Not That Great Or Is It That Forged Will Give Less Headaches Down The Road? The Car Will Be Driven To The Strip For Now,gettin The Trailer After January.thanks Again!!!!

There's no question that forged are the most durable. But in their proper application there's nothing wrong with a quality set of hypers. My machinist builds a lot of engines for local oval and drag racers and many are built with K-B hypers. If you think you ever may want to spray though, it'd be best to go forged.