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I was bending and breaking push rods on the same cylinder as this lifter was on #2, the lifter under the push rod that was breaking was fine. The beat up lifter collapses really easy, so I took it out. Check out the pic and see what you think. Also do you think this wiped out the lobe on the cam shaft?
Thanks
This site is the best!!
This motor is supposed to only have maybe 100 miles, but the lifters and push rods dont look new. I have the head off also is there anything else I can look for? I can see the cam lobe and it feels like its rounded a little?
When the lifter and cam are that bad, better get it apart and get all the filings out of the engine, and see what else is bad.....
The bore looks new still can see all the cross hatching no lip at all looks great. The valves do have carbon on them, but the springs look brand new. It looks as if the bottom end was just done and they used the old cam,lifters, rockers, and just freshend up the heads. So looks like I will pulling the cam out in the morn.
if this was the same hole you bent the push rod then i would look for some thing stoping the travel of the cam lift like piston to valve .rocker to rocker stud . valve guild to bottom of valve retainer. here are other things that may have done this to. is it a comp cam lifter? when you loose a lifter the bits end up in the pistons skirts and dig up the walls. this lifter was collapse because you have a hole in the bottom of it so at that point the lifter can not work as a hyd lifter
Thanks for the info I will post up pics of the cam tomm. What do you think was the cause of this? Should I take the head to a macine shop to get looked at?
No this wasnt in the same hole. but the intake lifter was the one bending the push rod on the cyl. #2 exhaust had the beat up lifter. I think thats right it was the hole closest to the front of the head with the bad lifter on the pass. side.
Also the rocker stud that was breaking the push rods was higher then the rest of the studs, I do have screw in studs.
yes take the set in to the shop. did someone put new guilds in the heads look to see if they are grabbing the valves when the engine is warm look for any thing that i said like piston to valve you may not have any. look at the rpm valve float .look at the spring for pressure if all this looks good ? then it could be oil with no zinc in it?? no break in on the cam? junk lifters some came from china i have seen this on big blocks that is why i run roller cams.
are your heads stock gm?
yes there camel humps 3782461 62cc, the pistons are flat tops 30 over with huge valve clearence's cut in them so I dont think they are hitting.
then you are runing guild plates with studs ? the push rod guilds in the heads should be drill out if that is so. you should check the piston to valve .some of them old humper heads did get milled down alot . for the stud being taller look at it just may be a new one not a full set if this is so look to see if you did not bottom out on the stud they have a big radius at the hex part make sure the rocker is not on it
How do I check the pison to valve? Yes guild plates with screw in studs, the one stud that was higher I just re torqued it and then it was fine.
Also now that I look at the head, a few of the springs look lower then then others.
it sounds like you got a mess.. all the valves should be close to the same height even on a chevy that has adjustable valve train if that far off will throw off your push rod height if you do not know how to check the piston to valve. then that is to say it was never check? that not good
I would go back on the seller. It sounds like either incompetent engine building or misrepresenting the product or both. I would try to get my money back.
I pulled the cam and a total of 3 lifters were wiped out, and 3 cam lobes are wiped. Any ideas?
I would think with that much shrapnel floating around inside the engine, it would be time to take it all the way down and see what else is wrong, or not as advertised in the engine. Cam failures on fresh installs is not all that uncommon lately, improper break in procedures can cause a lot of problems...
Thats funny thats exactly what my local engine builder said.
How did you break it in when you started it? What oil did you use? Did you use any zinc additives like EOS?