Any website that calculates HP?

Anyone know of a website that will let you list all the components of an engine build and give you an estimated horsepower number? I'm not building a race car but I have two different motor combinations I can go with (basement full of parts):rolleyes: and would like to get a 'in the ballpark' idea of what the 2 combo's would do because,though it'll be a far cry from a race car or even considered a hotrod,,,,I don't want to be out ran by just anything!
And before I get my chops smacked,,,,(i know I will on this one:LOL: but also know that this is the site that will give 'real' info) let me say that due to limited green,I am forced to use what I have.Looking for a site with calculator and not really what others would use instead of what I've got;) :)
edit: guess I should add that the choices I have to choose from will produce different power ranges but would like to stay under a certain HP but over a certain HP #,thus the request for a calculator.

post the combo's and i will e-mail tham to a friend that has a few of those dyno programs.. and post them up for you may take a day or so...

Well,,,combo #1,this is what I'd like to go with if it would move a 3100-3200 lb vehicle into the low 15's in the quarter.Not sure of all you need but here goes,
283 bored .060"=292 c.i.'s.; right about 9.2:1 CR with the pistons and heads I have,these heads,though production 'smog' heads do work on fast NHRA stock & superstock cars;cam 447 lift,306 duration 114 lsa;Offy intake with 600 Holley;
Need more let me know.Weakness in this is build is C.I. and heads but again,,,low 15's
And by the way,rear gear will be 411 and converter around 2300 stall,but I can change that depending on what HP I'll have.

fisrt were do i get a horse that works on car???? do you have any flow number ?? do you have the cam card?? the lsa doesn't tell me anything i need the event timing numbers. there the ones on the card that say ivo? ivc? evo?evc? if you have those number that and the lift you posted is all he will need as for cam spec's. is that a duel plane intake??

A stock 283 with any mild cam should get you in the 15 second range. My std bore 283 in a 3400lb car with me in it ran 15 sec with 3.55 gears/4 speed and a cam with about a .470 lift. the 600 holley is perfect on mine, it does better than the edelbrock 600 I had. Put together what you have and run it, it's already paid for. If it is not working right you can easily make a cam change latter.

Intake is a high riser dual plane.Offy 360 design;cam specs,@ .050 In.-1/41,E.-49/7;advertised In.40/86 Ex.88/38
Some flow #'s lift cfm
350 170 In/105 Ex.
400 182 /107
450 189 /109
500 195 /110

~300 HP at 6,500 rpm. Will make ~300 hp from ~6,000 rpm out to ~7,000 rpm with dual plane manifold and street headers/mufflers.

I think it will run ~ 14 sec

Kitz

you should be fine for what your looking for like mr kitz says its around 300. the only thing i would strongly suggest. if your could go to a 1.6 rocker this will give you .477 lift and make alittle more hp for free. and the next thing your going to think i'm crazy but i would put a 8-9" convertor 4500-5000 stall. you can get a hughs from jegs that will work well. the converter will NEVER go that hi with the power you making more like 2800-3100. i have a 8" hugh in a 350cid pump gas 10to1 same gear, weight with about 100 more hp but it only goes to 3500rpm and it advertised as 5000.. it would go there if you were to run a 600-700hp engine.. just remember the smaller cid and lack of torque you will need a smaller convertor and alot higher advertised stall speed. your going to have to trust me on this one.. just alittle info we pulled out a 5000stall from behind a 496 bigblock because the stall was going 5900 and installed it into a 454 that made 200hp less and it would only go 4700. we were looking for a home for it and final put it in a chevy power mustang with a small block that made 180hp less then the 454 and it would only go 3600. so as you can see the converter went over the advertised stall all the way down to 1400 under advertised stall..

Thanks a million guys. But I have a question(I'll show my ignorance on this one) but,this cam supposedly lets a motor 'flaten out' around 5500 rpm,and so would these heads I think. 500caddy,I know to use a little more converter than the cam needs, but 4500-5000 stall? I'm not questioning your experience,and I don't know alot but are you baseing that on the rpm potential due to it being a small cubic in.motor or??? Please explain.

I do like the idea of 1.6 rockers. One thing that captures my attention is we haven't been told what heads you have and valve size. I know you said they ran well on stock and super stock engines. Does it have 1.94 intake valves or 2.02's. Increasing lift with the smaller bore 283 (+ .060) can experience shrouding and possible material contact depending on the chamber size and valve size. If the valve will not interfere when open, consider shrouding and if it may pose a problem for your application.

Heads are as stated 'smog' heads and if I would make any changes it would be here. They are 305HO '416' heads,1.84 in.,1.5 ex.,58cc chambers,,,yeah I know,,,YUK!:eek: Not a good head for a hipo build but I can't see why they wouldn't flow enough to get a 3200 lb. vehicle in the low 15's.
They have been used on NHRA stock and SS cars with some work.

My heads are off of a 305 1981 chevy truck. They run as good as the 1.94 camel humps that were on it.

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Originally Posted by chevydrivin

My heads are off of a 305 1981 chevy truck. They run as good as the 1.94 camel humps that were on it.

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I heard others say the same thing,that the 305HO heads are as good as 1.94 camel humps and Hotrod mag.printed a reply to a question I asked in the June 06 issue,'pit stop' section,pg.161 and said that these '416' heads have 350 head intake runners with a higher compression chamber.
But they ARE NOT what anyone would consider a hi-performance or hotrod head,but are decent for a daily driver needing a little more compression do to the wrecking yard charging less than the machine shop or aftermarket.
But again,if I were serious about making power they would be the first thing to go.:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FAYLUR

Heads are as stated 'smog' heads and if I would make any changes it would be here. They are 305HO '416' heads,1.84 in.,1.5 ex.,58cc chambers,,,yeah I know,,,YUK!:eek: Not a good head for a hipo build but I can't see why they wouldn't flow enough to get a 3200 lb. vehicle in the low 15's.
They have been used on NHRA stock and SS cars with some work.

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Down to 287 hp with those heads ..................

The HP is very flat from 5500 to 7500 but I don't think that will help you that much drag racing. In addition you need really good springs and lifters or you will float your valves well before 7,000 rpm ...........

Kitz

Well my heads had been rebuilt and had new stock springs installed. My engine runs up to 7,000 with no problem, Ran 6,200 rpm through the traps with my 3.55 gear. Now with my 3.7 gear i hope to gain a little more rpm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitz

Down to 287 hp with those heads ..................


Kitz

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Couldn't you have done that before I bragged on them so much,,,ouch!:CRY: :CRY: :CRY: :LOL:

faylur, when a converter is advertised at 4500-5500 it doesn't meen thats were it's going to stall. the hp,torque,weight of car etc etc has alot to do with it.. with your car being 3000-3100# and not having big hp or torque numbers the converter will be very tight. here's a chart for the same converter with different hp levels this number are off one of my tech sheets that i got with a off the shelf converter. there all the same 9" advertised at 4000-4500. it would take a 8" with your power level to get it to stall were you need it..

400hp 3000-3400
500hp 3400-3800
600hp 3800-4200
700hp 4200-4600

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chevydrivin

Well my heads had been rebuilt and had new stock springs installed. My engine runs up to 7,000 with no problem, Ran 6,200 rpm through the traps with my 3.55 gear. Now with my 3.7 gear i hope to gain a little more rpm.

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I am no exspert ,but I would do as 500 caddy suggested on the stall,1.6 rockers if you have the piston to valve clearance.
A small bore engine ,needs lift to help the shrouded valves breathe,but not so much as to get into piston to valve clearance or where you get the engine out of its power band,which in my opinion your cam and rpm are a little too much for these heads.
Take a look at this link, http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/343hp305.html ,the build is very similiar to yours and mine,the only difference is the cam you have,the link states that 343 hp at 6250,which seems to be about the rpm these heads nose dive unless mods have been done{notice how it nose dives on the dyno numbers after that rpm}.I used a comp xe 262 h in mine for a approx 300 hp,which is about the same size as the cam in the link.
All the dyno numbers on these heads I have seen on these heads show the smaller inch engines do good til around 6000 rpm,a 350 cubic inch engine drops the rpm approx 500-600 rpm for max hp.
Heres a vid of me revin mine up for the first time,needs some more tunning in this vid though.The throttle response is much better now......thnx to Denny.:D
http://youtube.com/watch?v=ld4vfbizOBI

Thanks Shawnlee28.I'm on this website to learn and I love learning about cars, hotrods or any. What you and 500Caddy are saying makes alot of sense,but the thing I am wondering about is that from the little I know about converters,I have been made to believe that you have to go with one that suits your powerband,this usually has a direct relation to the cam but also considers weight,motor CFM,RPM application,1/8,1/4,circle track,street toy,and other factors about the vehicle. These 'little motors that could' 283's like hi-RPM,but doesn't cam profile and breathing ability(motor,not me):D determine what would be too low of stall or too high of stall? Seriously,I don't know,,,:confused: Now if it had heads,cam,other goodies and machinin,you may have trouble over converterin it,but,,,,some body explain,all I can see a 4000-5000 stall doing for this build is burning out the trans? Smack me and set me straight if I ain't gettin it.:rolleyes:

Geesh,,,,where'd that come from?(sorry if FAYLUR seems goofy tonight,he's drinkin,Eunice):p But that does convince me that 500Caddy's reasoning was better than mine cause 3500 was more than I thought,if I'm reading Denny's figures right,thats where I would begin making my power band good.Lord why don't you but me a,,,,dyno:LOL: Well,foolishness aside,that makes sense.

Also on a build like this for what your building you have to look at tire size on getting you where you need to be at the top of the quarter. To get your rpms at 6,200 or whatever your peak is.
formula for HP needed at a MPH.
Constant is .00426
((.00426 x mph needed) X (mph x .00426) X (mph X .00426)) x weight of car.

100 mph and 3200 lbs is 247 HP
Which I think is close to 14 to 15 sec/qrt

with the 4.11 gear
At 6,200 rpm with a 225/70/14 (26.4 tall) tire you will be at 118 mph.
which you will not see with the HP your building.
At 5,500 rpm with that tire you would be at 103 mph.
With a 23" tall tire you could be at 103 mph and 6,200 rpm at top qrt.

the advertised stall would be 4000-5000 in a 8"-or 9". you do not have enough power and torque to make it( slip, flash, hit) much higher then 2500-2800rpm. if you were to add a 100 hp of nos the conv would stall higher. you will not over heat the trans or burn it up. i have been running small cid with 8" converters for yrs. your thinking is right if you were to have 700-800hp but with that kind of power your building custom one per app. see the problem is when one guy is running a custom that was built for his combo it may have a 10" but your not looking to spend 1000$ on one. so you have to play the what if game. i have played that game i have spent more money then i care to say. most of the time i have to send one back to have them loosen it up. don't take this wrong but you have a 291cid low compression, short stroke all killing your torque. without torque any conv will tighten up. the impeller pushes fliud through the stator to the turbin and makes the car go. (the higher the power the faster, higher the rpms the impeller spins before the stator makes the turbin move i.e stall speed. the lower the power the slower, lower rpms the impeller spins before the car moves. the only time all of it spins at the same speed is a lockup conv.) this example would be for the same conv with different power levels. a custom conv will have the right stator for your combo and takes all the guess work out.

Duh,,,ok,,,,"Mr.Hughes??? Hid in Dillons shoes,wearing his disguise?" (That was a song;) but you seem to know converters and since you mentioned Hughe's converters,,,,thought you might be associated,,,wellll,just jokeing.
But how 500caddy???I'm running out of air at that RPM and the converter would just be transferring torque?
edit,,,,or were you saying I need a 2500-2800?

one question to help pick a converter, Are you going to foot brake it or install a trans-brake or what?

WHAT DENNY SAID. i use neal chance convertors ONLY in cars over 800hp. but alot of companys make VERY good street conv. just i know how the hughs work as for advertised and what they will go behind a hp level, weight, tire etc etc. that's way i said to try them. if you were one of my customers i would put the 8" 4500 in there and it will work at 2500ish with the low torque your putting out.

The whole purpose is to transfer torque from motor to trans,by means of fluid pressure and will suit the bill as long as the fluid pressure matches motor torque applied,at launch or thruout the run?.Where in that process wouldn't a 2500 work? Are you saying that I could use more at the higher rpm levels,I don't know because I thought once a converter did it's thing it was constant throughout the rpm??? Cause rpm launch,with 411 gears and Oddlots brake:LOL: and my cam/heads may not launch any higher.Now,I admit,once the vehicle has overcome inertia and is up in the power,I havn't a clue where the converter has gone?**)

faylur, your getting hung up on the rpms. a 4500rpm 8" will never see more then 2500ish with your power and torque...you don't have enough to make it go there... if you put a 10" 2500-3000 stall in your car it will not rev because again you don't have enough hp ftq to push that convertor to 2500-3000 it will be more like 1800rpms and with the extra weight the 10" will even slow it down more...

you're getting closer in understanding the fluid drive part of it. If everything is perfect, the converter should go 1 to 1 when stator speeds and drive vanes start to match rpm. This is only in theory. Most converters never really do go 1 to 1 during the run. Powerglide is the closest in doing so. You still need to also commit to foot braking it or transbrake, it will help you launch the thing with the best flash also. If you have any doubts with your setup, you get to decide whether you need as low as 2500 or as high as 3500. Something as simple as a B&M super hole shot would do your engine well.

Well,I will go off in the corner and study this one because other than the weight factor,that sounds backwards from what I have learned.Less converter gets a low torque,low power motors torque applied,but you may be right,and though I don't consider myself hardhead or un-willing to learn,your recommendation seems quite unorthodox.But you may be right

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Originally Posted by nitrowarrior

you're getting closer in understanding the fluid drive part of it. If everything is perfect, the converter should go 1 to 1 when stator speeds and drive vanes start to match rpm. This is only in theory. Most converters never really do go 1 to 1 during the run. Powerglide is the closest in doing so. You still need to also commit to foot braking it or transbrake, it will help you launch the thing with the best flash also. If you have any doubts with your setup, you get to decide whether you need as low as 2500 or as high as 3500. Something as simple as a B&M super hole shot would do your engine well.

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So the motor is overpowering and the converter catches up after launch? If this is correct then that explains his recommending more stall,if I am understanding you right.
This is great learning,on a subject that you don't hear much about.

You want the drivetrain to catch up with the slippage, and it will as it makes it's run. The stall is primarily for the launch to allow the engine to build a better torque band for the launch. The converter will still have some slippage throughout but it's at a minimum.

[QUOTE=DennyW]Ok, heres my simple way of saying it. If you have a 2000 rpm stall, that means it takes 2000 rpm's to lock it up. Now, when it locks up, you go baby. :LOL: To maintain the lockup down the track, your motor has to give up 2000 rpm's to keep the converter locked up.END QUOTE--- Is this what I've been missing? The lock up,in a sense takes you back to zero as far the rest of the run? (maynot be stating it right,but,,,)

it's more like as your launch but you have it.. the more the engine over powers the conv the higher the stall speed.. you don't have alot of power so you need a conv to let the engine over power it i.e stall speed

Oh For Crying Out Loud,,,,:HMMM: Sorry 500caddy if I got on your nerves,I apologize.I understand now.Great learning for more than myself though I bet many were reading.Thanks,and again,apologies.

faylur,nope thats way were all here.

if you want to go low buck try a vega stall had one that flash to the moon with a mild 454 was the best bang for the buck i ever spent on a stall and i wasted alot of money on them may work ok with a small block

one more thing don't cheap out on one. if you ever do more mod's to the car you can send it to one of many companys and have it changed to what ever you did..so it works with the new combo... good luck.

the stator has every thing to do with how good it will work i have blown the cast alum stators to hell and back them bolt two gether converters are good? so you could tune one in?? but looks like more parts to me. i did work on a converter that look like that it was one of the first trys from GM 1940 olds:eek: boy that dam thing was so much fun

i like my neal chance bolt togather. i have three stators one for just engine and one for 250shot of nos. the last one is used for two stages 300hp for the first stage and 450hp for the second. but for 2000grand plus 200 per stator it's not cheap....that tci is new but looks like a nice piece.