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Just looking for some feedback from people more experienced than myself.
Have any of you replaced your own rod bolts in a pinch?And other than the possibility of the big end needing re-con'd,whats the drawbacks of a good 'hobbiest' putting new/stronger brand bolts in theirselves?
you better get them recond and if you put new bolts in now not to many machine shop will not touch them . i cut both the rod and cap when i do them so if you put the bolts in they will have to be press out and they will get loose with the arp bolts you have to spot the caps for the bigger flange nut so you wold be better have them done
It's almost cheaper to buy aftermarket rods with the bolts.
well it is close i get about 11.00 a rod to blast them cut the cap and rod press new bolts in .fit the bolts and size the big end
i just pulled this from a post i did last year, kind of the same subject. below is original post and photo to follow, lesson is, its better safe then sorry with stuff like that!!!!!
i just found this photo, a friend of mine took a whole summer slowly buying parts and building this 302. it was a lack of money issue. the block and crank were bored turned and prepped by a machine shop, he got antsy and wanted to drive it around before summers end. so he assymbled it without installing NEW ROD BOLTS. as it was on the jacks breaking in the cam after about 20 minutes, it let loose. note the skirt on the piston where the rod smacked it, it also broke the bottom edge off of the cylinder it jetisoned from. and as well put a huge unreparible gash in the newly turned crank. and crammed it into the newly prepped head. if he had just waited to at least cram 50.00 worth of rod bolts in it, he would probably still be driving this car around.
AHHH,rod windows.:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by mooneye777
Back in April I paid a local speedshop $217,,,, $58 to R&R rods $ pistons,$50 ARP bolts,$96 to resize the rod ends. Thats not bad,,,but on this next motor I'm building,,,BigRedTrucker makes alot of sense in what he said,,,I can get a set of new I-beam for under $200,,,or H-beam rods for $270.And since the pistons are not on rods now the R&R cost will be lower.
I have always re-used my old rods but this motor will be pushing 480-500 HP,,,what do you guys suggest for a good set of rods for this HP? Cat,Scat,Eagle,etc.,,,,?
mooneye777,,,that pic put the fear of the Lord in me :cool: did you have to do that?:CRY:
Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
Pat, do you do the rod reconditioning bit as a matter of course or are there certain parameters you follow?
If the rod mics in spec seems you could skip the reconditioning bit.
Not being cheap here, just curious.
mooneye777,,,that pic put the fear of the Lord in me :cool: did you have to do that?:CRY:[/QUOTE]
FAYLUR a little fear is good now and then it makes you come to reality and think clearly for a second or two, NOT thinking clearly is something that is genetic in all male species, just ask my wife she will tell you!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
Reminds me of my first job in an auto machine shop. Being the new kid I got all the 'good' stuff that nobody wanted. I'd get a shopping cart full of sbc conn rods to do and if memory serves I was getting two bucks a piece (piece work). One things for sure though, I got good and FAST at doing them. The other job the noob's got was pinning cracks in cyl heads. We got paid by the inch or the pin, cant remember which but it was at the poverty level for us young punks. sorry, side rant over.:CRY:
Scat or Eagle and at that hp level I would run the h beam rods.Quote:
Originally Posted by FAYLUR
Thanks Eric.
well i first wash them press the pistons off if using the same pistons then they stay on .but lets say the pistons are off. press the old bolts out of rods file all loose metal a rounded the big end and spot face the caps if needed. and chamfer the bolt holes and file parting lines then cut the rods and all caps i have a steel block with a dail gage find the big part of the rod O the gage cut the rod till 001.or 002 do the same for a the caps before i do any cutting i like to take a very light cut to see if the cap or rod is cutting square if out with the side of cap or rod face i may shim it to get it flat and square to rod face press all bolts in look rods over hit any sharp spots with file check bearing tangs fit the rods to caps TQ the up and donw 3 time with lube then hone them to the size need to beQuote:
Originally Posted by C9x
Come on Denny,elaborate,,,,such as,does Denny own a 3000 lb press or is it really needed? When if ever would a whammer be used,etc.,,,you can think of the right questions better than I!:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
i use to use a 5 ton ratchet head press for the bolts i now use a sunnen press it dose not take much to press the bolts in need a alum bock to hold the rod when you drive the bolts in the rod
Denny,in no way did I mean that negative or offensive. What I was saying was that you had the no-how that I was looking for and knew the steps/procedure needed thus knew the right questions I should ask.Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
[QUOTE=DennyW]I didn't take it in a neg way. I was just joking around. :)
Well,,,ok,,,cause you did read my user name didn't you? I did mention they say I'm paranoid didn't I? :whacked:
As a matter of fact,would you believe that I stomped out of that football stadium Saturday,their crazy if they think I'm going to set there and watch 11 grown men do me like that! Right there in front of all those people,,,huddling around in the middle of that field and talking about me like a dog! Paranoid nothing! :LOL:
I would imagine the majority of all used rods are egg shaped, and should be resized. Seems like cheap insurance to me... Resized rods are cheap compared to the price of Oil Pan Failure when it fails to contain all the broke pieces!!!!!
well that is all good and fine if you think you can get lucky and swap out the bolts ?you still have to spot face the caps for the arp flange nuts .this is last time i take the time to post any of may fine photos on how to do any thing on here:)
I like your pictures, Pat!!!! Got to work on my camera (or maybe the operator?) to get my pictures that clear!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
Hey Pat,whats the deal with the steel straight edge and the dial in that one pic? And thanks for the pics and info.,,,everyone!Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
this is set to zero before i cut any thing off the caps and rods .this tells me how much i cut off the caps and rods i reset it for every rod and cap i cut when all TQ up they go to my 1957 sunnen hone and get hone to size the gage on the side of the machine is a AG300 this is set and O to size off the bore size .i run two rods that a time and keep working them and flip them time to time to keep the on size and no tapper and work all of them to about .001 and let them cool work them to .0005 and let them cool and finsh them up