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Just use an HEI distributor, takes one wire to power it up. The ecu and harness has nothing to do with the accessories in the car....
You will have to remove the fuel pump in the tank and convert over to a standard pickup in the tank. Run standard or electric fuel pump for the carb system. I don't know what year your 355 is but you can't run the fuel injection pump for the carb. Ignition source 12v for the hei Dave mentioned and worry about the small stuff according to which op sender you have etc.
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You have to bypass the ecu and harness,including that plug. Run a switched hot wire directly to the distributor.
You can use the pump in the tank with a bypass-type regulator set at 5 pounds or so. Put the reg. as close to the pump as practical.
Pope, good suggestion. I have been bitten by that method so I thought I would suggest a clean start in that area of the fuel pump issue. OP stands for Oil Pressure switch. Face, reread Daves post, you are going to eliminate the ECU system. Run it it like it was a truck from the 70's. Simpleist way I can describe it without giving a boring seminar here.
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Would seem to me that a 600 Edelbrock would still work fine, might have to step up a bit on the rods and jets, but that would be about it. Those carbs flow great on the street!!!!!
The timing computer will be totally out of the system, just an Ignition source 12V+ wire to the distributor is all you'll need. The post beside it is the hookup for the tach lead.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFM
The oil pressure sender will work, it just has some extra connections on it for a fuel pump shutoff circuit.
What kind of oil sender is that Pope??? would love to have one with an extra terminal or two!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by R Pope
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Hi Danny W. and all
Sorry to sidetrack this thread but I have an odd problem with my 91 TBI 350 (Chevy van) and it seems to involve this circuit. The van would shut down while running but would restart. While changing the inline filter (no improvement) and then pumping the tank out before dropping it, it became obvious that it was running exactly the same length of time before the pump stopped. I timed it and it was 20 secs. As long as the key was turned to OFF then back to RUN, the pump would always resume pumping normally. This would repeat 2 or three times then it would run for days just fine. The OP guage read normal when the engine quit.
After your last post, I'm thinking maybe my FP backup switch is bad and reading no oil pressure. Does the ECM allow the engine to run for a few seconds (say 20) with no oil pressure? Or perhaps the FP relay is bad? Must admit I can't even locate the relay in this van. It's a Mark III conversion BTW.
Again sorry to hijack but sooner or later this nuisance will strand me good. This is my first post...awesome site. Unlike anything else I've found.
Any help appreciated,
John
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