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my block is going to the shop next week an i wanted to know is the best stroker kit i can find out there. its a eagle crank with speed pro piston an rods that will clear .600 lift what do you think about this i cant get the whole kit for 700 buck. the motor will be a 383 with vortec heads how many horses do you think the motor will pull out when the build is said an done. thanks for your input
at that price, I would assume it is a cast crank with I-Beam rods???? Probably ok for a street engine, if you planning on some racing or high rpm might want to consider at least a forged crank...H-beam rods are stronger, too.... Whatever you get, it is well worth the extra $$$$ to have the rotating assembly balanced. Check all your clearances closely, just because it's all brand new parts, no guarantee they were made to spec....
im not doing racing jus a lil street here an there to take some of my friends money. with this build up how many horses you think i would get out of it
Hard to say without cam specs, etc. Some of the guys have the software to give you a reasonable answer.... I like to put mine on a chassis dyno and know for sure horsepower!!!! Just a guess, probably in the neighborhood of 375
My advice is to heed what Dave said about measuring everything prior to assembly. TRUST NOBODY.
Are these 5.7" or 5.565" rods?
I'm a hobbyist, not a professional engine builder, but in my opinion the motor won't make a lot of horsepower with those heads on a 383, but it should make a ton of torque up to the point where the heads begin to stall. For a street motor, I'd rather have the low and mid-range torque that will actually move the car than maximum top end horsepower. You'll make more power "under curve" with your combination and the car could be faster than if you built the motor with top hp as the most important consideration because the motor will spend more time at low and mid-range than it will at the top.
Tighten up the squish to generate turbulence in the chamber as the piston nears TDC so you can run pump gas with no problems. Carefully match the intake closing point of the cam to the static compression ratio of the motor. Don't overcam the motor or you'll have a mis-match that you won't be happy with.
That's just my opinion.
i not a big fan of the 383 with 5.7 I beam rods you may have to nip the rods this is to make room for the cam to clear if it is a thru bolt rod then you will be cutting on the head of the rod bolt and the side of the rod . if you go with a I OR H beam rod with a cap screw then if need be you can cut on the rod with out the worry of hurting the rod bolt by cut it .for room for the cam . you can go to a small base circle you may have to do both this would have to do with your rods .i would build it with a cap screw rod s . I rods may be lighter mass but if you go to the low dollar I beams rods then i would move up to the H beams and if you have some money to throw at it then a set of howards crowers I beams would be a good rod you also should look at the powder howards/gkn rods they are very good and that new scat# scr5a7 orscr6a7 rod they say is porfiled for a stroker if low dollar then i would pay a bit more an get the scats. all are good rods it just has to do with how much money you want to spend on the rods and rpm and HP .. the vortec head going to do any thing at 600 lift????
Unless your dad owns the machine shop, you'd better figure on shelling out $2500 for a completed short block. Boring, align boring, decking, the rotating assembly (a new Eagle rotating assembly runs between $1200-1300), balancing, cam, new timing chain, oil pump, cam bearings, and labor. It doesn't take long to rack up over two grand. If you try to cut corners, you will be sorry later.
I recently installed an Eagle 383 kit in my motor. As far as clearances, everything checked out. A small amount of grinding on the rods to clear the cam lobes. Some grinding on the oil pan rail to clear the counterweights and rods
The biggest problem was when I checked the piston to deck height, the numbers were way off. I originally thought the machine shop had cut the deck on an angle when the decked it. Cyl 1 was .018, 3 was .021, 5 was .024, and 7 was .028. Same situation on the other side. Basically the throws of the crank were off. The machine shop reground the mains to .010 under and made up the difference in the throws. Then I had everything balanced. We'll see how it all works out.
was the block true deck like with BHJQuote:
Originally Posted by Randall