So I want to build a truck around a motor..........

To all of the others out there who think way too far into the "what ifs".......I am asking for opinions. I recently picked up a spare long block for my truck for $150 complete except for the intake. The engine currently in my truck is less than a year old and runs great........so I decided to start my first complete build. My idea is a late 60's early 70's chevy truck with a moderately modified small block and manual transmission.

The block and heads are 1992 with the center screw rocker covers. I would like to change over to either a 2X4 or 3X2 carb setup for the visual effect of cool. The manifolds I can find are fit up to 1986. What changed that the manifolds wont fit a 1992?

I am thinking of a cam around 230 duration @ 0.050" and gross lift around 0.480". This would require a bit of compression.........with piston deck and gasket totalling about 0.040". a bore of 4.030", 76cc heads: I figure pistons with 10cc domes should bring the SCR to about 10.75:1. I plan an running 93-97 octane unleaded. I don't really have the budget for a new 383 kit but I can make the stretch to a multi carb setup a little more justifiable.

My questions are many. Does this setup sound about right? Suggestions? What trannys are working well and what do I look for? Right now I don't have the truck to put this in but I would like to form a plan ahead of time so I can better complete the build from start to finish and stay on task.

Thanks ahead of time for input and opinions. I appreciate the little details that are earned through experience and wisdom.
Chris

So many good engine combinations, Tech has a reference you should look at. Pick your horsepower and match it with your checkbook.... Hopefully he'll see your post and put the link on here.....

Anyway, IMO the engine should not be your first consideration on a complete build....When you're considering a 35 or 40 year old pickup, there are a lot of things to consider including brakes, suspension, body mods, etc. There is so much more to a quality build then just dropping in horsepower. It's good to have an idea in mind of the horsepower figure you are wanting, then start planning a chassis that will best put this power to the ground and handle good, too. All the horsepower in the world is useless unless the rest of the combination is up to applying it....

Dave,
So with a truck of this age what should I look for? I intend to strip it down to the frame as a roller and make whatever mods become neccesary. I would like to learn more about suspension and four wheel disc brakes. I am a welder by trade and I am quite comfortable working with metal. I just need to be pointed in the right direction so that I can learn more and get a good, honest start.
Chris

The engine just happens to be the first piece in my possesion, but it got the wheels turning.

When you find a likely candidate, look it over carefully and not just the body or shiny paint!!!! Get underneath it, check the integrity of the frame, see if it's been bent or spliced together after a crash. Check for rust.... A couple places to examine closely are around the body mounts, and wherever the crossmembers or bracketry attaches. These areas collect moisture and will tend to rust out first. Body panels and patch panels are cheap and easy to replace. I'd go shopping for a good solid frame rather then a shiny body!!!!

I've got some pics in my gallery of a couple different pickup frames that we've done, take a look. The late 50's, early 60's Chevy pickup frames are good, solid frames. The thing I don't like about them is all the rivets....If you go with one of these, plan on grinding off the rivet heads, knocking out the rivets, and welding things solid!!!!

Lots of good suspension and disc brake packages available for them, too. Go with the quality stuff the first time. In the long run it's a whole lot easier and cheaper to do it right the first time then it is to do it over!!!!! Hot Rods aren't built with time limits except on TV... If it takes you an extra year or so to build it because you have to work to raise the extra $$$$, no big deal. The end result will make it well worthwhile!

How do I view a specific individuals gallery pics?

I am interested in chassis mods affecting handling, changing the center of gravity for both handling and traction. Any books that you can recommend?

click on the camera under the dude's name

I second Dave on the '50s & '60s frames the rivets are a pain to remove & weld, but welding is stronger. I do like the '69 & '70 chevy trucks. They look good and have trailing arms with coil springs on the rear....a good place to start, much better than leaf springs. Trucks are light in the rear and hard to get grip, weight transfer is the key.......

Just remember 600hp is useless if you can't get any grip......

Here are a couple of books on amazon that I found pretty easily......
http://www.amazon.com/Chevy-GMC-Truc...065837-4268116
http://www.amazon.com/Chevy-Trucks-H...065837-4268116
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0760301034
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0879382821
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0760316341

Your center bolt valve covers indicate you have a Vortec engine, and you won't find a tripower intake yet (I've been waiting for Edelbrock to bring one out) but you will find a 2 x 4 manifold is available. Summit shows them for the Vortec.

Don

I traded for my SHOTROD truck, first thing I did after I got it running well is rebuilt the stock brakes completely( cost little over $150 doing it all myself!), I would like to upgrade to discs myself.
after building and driving many pre 70's"hotRod" Chevy Trucks I have learned that drum brakes work but IF it goes Fast it needs to stop Fast!
My Main Point is that dont build a 600HP motor and then run the stock drums.
Good luck,
TwoBlu
click on lil camera and check out my current project RatRide.

Everyone thanks for the input so far. Tech I will look into the amazon links you posted. As far as the weight transfer is concerned, what has worked in the past? I spent some time in a fab shop building dirt and asphalt cars. Everything was setup to be adjustable and scaled every time out. This extent of modification would render the truck bed pretty useless and the suspension may not ride real well on the street. Anyone find that happy medium?

I agree on the brakes. I am trying to sit down and plan an entire package (or at least 80%) ahead of time so that I can be realistic as far as a budget and time frame. Right now I haven't invested much and I don't want to end up with an $8000 pile of junk that is 25% complete when my patience is finished...........that and I would like to stay married, it IS fairly important to me

"It does, however, require a specific intake manifold (Vortec heads have 4 bolts attaching the intake manifold as opposed to the traditional six bolts)."
This is a quote from Wikipedia about identifying the Vortec heads. The set I have is 1992 with 4 center screws for the valve covers. I checked the heads and they have six threaded holes on each head to fasten the manifold. Am I correct in saying that these are not vortec heads?

Larry as far as the truck........I can dig it. there is just something about potential and the aspirations of a patient craft that do it for me. I will check back over time to see how you make out.

Chris

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threearmsinjune

Everyone thanks for the input so far. Tech I will look into the amazon links you posted. As far as the weight transfer is concerned, what has worked in the past? I spent some time in a fab shop building dirt and asphalt cars. Everything was setup to be adjustable and scaled every time out. This extent of modification would render the truck bed pretty useless and the suspension may not ride real well on the street. Anyone find that happy medium?

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We've done well with the MII design front suspension and triangulated 4 bar on the rear along with as much engine setback as you can possibly get and still have foot room in the cab. A bit of firewall notching does wonders! If you're going to be doing some drag racing with it, then an unequal length 4 bar would be the answer. Very adjustable and with careful selection of the coilovers, it can reach a happy compromise on ride and weight transfer.....

Personally, I think the engine is the perfect start for any build. Nothing much worse than trying to shoehorn in a monster into your completed sheet metal finding it won't fit. By starting with the engine, you will know exactly how much upgrading the brakes and suspension will require to accomodate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Personally, I think the engine is the perfect start for any build. Nothing much worse than trying to shoehorn in a monster into your completed sheet metal finding it won't fit. By starting with the engine, you will know exactly how much upgrading the brakes and suspension will require to accomodate.

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You're right. A gernaded block and a pair of smogger heads will do fine for fitting.... The worst part I've found is there's the new engine during the build....all covered with body dust, grinding residue, stains on the air cleaner cuz some dummy left his pop can setting on it. And internally, unless the engine has been pre-run on an test stand or a dyno it doesn't do them a bit of good to set there for months (years in some cases) with the same valve springs half compressed, fully compressed, and no pressure on them. Still works best to get the rest of the build done FIRST, then put in the engine. As for using the engine to diagnose what you need to upgrade, IMO not a good plan cuz you'll have your pride and joy out there "testing" it in traffic... All the manufacturer's have plenty of information available along with this and other forums like it that with some proper planning and research you will be able to select the correct components WITHOUT messing it up on the street.......

Let's face it, most are just too dang impatient to get all the chassis and suspension work done before they here the engine run!!! The patience to do it is probably something the comes with age and experience, I guess....

[QUOTE= All the manufacturer's have plenty of information available along with this and other forums like it that with some proper planning and research you will be able to select the correct components WITHOUT messing it up on the street.......

Let's face it, most are just too dang impatient to get all the chassis and suspension work done before they here the engine run!!! The patience to do it is probably something the comes with age and experience, I guess....[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the input and helping to stress the importance of a vehicle as a total package. When I finally do find the right pickem up truck I want to have done my homework. I don't want to get stuck halfway due to lack of planning. Having this extra longblock just got my wheels a spinning as I am sure many can relate.

I would definitely use the block as I currently have it as a mock up. I would most likely strip the sheetmetal off down to just the cab and suspension. I figure that would give me room to fab up whatever I may need and to do all of the little things that are hard to do while everything else is in the way.

I am certainly open to pointers, such as the already mentioned rivets and firewall clearancing. Anyone run into problems they wish to share? Wish they had put a component in a different place? Lets toss around some ideas, concepts, dreams what have you.............

I found this on craigs list.http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/car/364529629.html
It is a 51 truck with 85 suspension. I inquired about the 85 conversion to see if it was a cut job and I am still waiting to hear...What do you guys think? Worth the money with a clear title?