Ok, so you guys have pushed me a long way to understanding camshafts, but I still can't find one to suit what I'm after.
Can someone point me directly to a lower duration, lower lift, solid roller camshaft?
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Ok, so you guys have pushed me a long way to understanding camshafts, but I still can't find one to suit what I'm after.
Can someone point me directly to a lower duration, lower lift, solid roller camshaft?
Take the time to read this and you will be able to choose a cam that will make you happy.:3dSMILE:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ics/index.html
If you want to run a solid roller on the street, I would suggest you take a close look at the Lunati Voodoo 60130 solid roller cam. I has less duration which will make it more streetable. The lift of a cam is not as much of a factor as duration in determining street manners, so I would not be all that concerned about the lift. You will lose some due to the lash anyway. But the duration is within the parameters for a hot street cam.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper111
www.holley.com/60130.asp
Hey Shawn, I ordinarily stay away from articles in most mags, But I must say that was a good link you posted. David Vizard has the tech experience to bring it all into focus. Great job on researching this stuff. Keep it up.
Rum, that voodoo is a great cam and can be a great street thumper. I am worried about Hopper's concern for a bit more on the bottom range. Let's see if he's willing to consider it though. Allow me to say, I do like the cam for strong performance and it might help him feel more comfortable in learning a new thing to tune...hhmmm, let's see what he wants to consider.
Here's a couple from Doug Herbert that I found.
.484"/.498" lift 217/226 @.050" 1000-6000 RPM 112*c
Says: "Low to mid-range torque and power. Good for daily driver, Good sounding idle."
or
.502"/.502" lift 242/251 @ .050" 1200-6200 RPM 110*c
Says: "Upper low-end to mid-range torque and power, Daily performer, mild bracket."
What do you guys think?
I think I like the first one,
.484"/.498" lift 217/226 @.050" 1000-6000 RPM 112*c
Says: "Low to mid-range torque and power. Good for daily driver, Good sounding idle."
Sounds like it would give me a good duration/lift, at an RPM range that I can drive without a stall converter on the street without having to spin the living piss out of the engine to make the power. Also, on the 112*c it should make decent vacuum. And it's only $189.99 compared to the $230+ from comp cams and other companies.
Very similar to the comp cams "280". And what are you paying for the Herbert? I can the comp set with lifters for 140 to 150. Do some shopping and I say this not knowing what you'r egetting for your 189 herbert. If it's a good kit, go for it pricing is so radically up and down from region to region, I'm not aware of where your suppliers get it or how much the mark up is.
Well this solid roller that I'm looking at comes from Herbert Performance. Owned now by Doug Herbert. Previously owned by Chet Herbert. It's my understanding that Chet Herbert (who actually ground the cam I own now himself on his lathe) basically pioneered the earliest solid roller camshafts.
I'm not biased toward any one company, I'm basically going bang for the buck. If I could get a solid roller around that profile for cheaper than 189, I'd be totally up for it.
One thing to remember is most of the Herbert roller cams are re-grinds at least the few I have seen in the last couple months are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper111
You might want to ask them how they surface hardend their cams.
Is it bad to buy a reground cam?
If the "core" is straight and the surface hardening is done correctly it should be just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper111
Go for the first cam, is that a hydraulic cam? That would be more suitable for your heads that you are using. A solid roller cam is more for racing than street. It won't work well with the stock heads you have. The heads have to flow enough to support high RPM's. The heads you have might support 5500 RPM's. So keep that in mind when picking a camshaft. Look at the camshaft operating range and pick one around 5500rpm. The first one will work. The second cam does not look right. 242 duration and 1200-6200 operating range? That's gotta be a typo. Like Erik said, go for about 220 duration @.050 Not much more than that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper111
well, both of those cams are solid roller. I originally built this motor to handle ab out .570" lift and a healthy shot of laughing gas. However, I ran out of money because I decided THE DAY OF my highschool graduation that I wanted to go to college. Therefore, I've just paid about $3,000 dollars out of my own bank account for my first year. Therefore, I have no money and my parents are starting to get grumpy about the El Camino taking up 3/4 of their garage. SO, I'm just trying to build it as mild as I can while still making it fun enough to drive on Friday nights.
I wouldn't have a problem just selling my solid roller cam and lifters and purchasing a flat tappet hydraulic cam, except that I bought +.100" valves and pushrods to go with the solid roller cam. I also bought very stiff springs to go with the cam. So basically, it's my understanding that I either sell my pushrods, valves, lifters, and cam...OR I just try to find a baby solid roller.
I'm really indifferent to either side as long as I get the thing on the street.
How about a http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=12-700-8
Kinda expensive @ $367 though...
Maybe I could negotiate a trade with my boss before my 2 weeks notice is up... Maybe my valve train for his hydraulic flat tappet one + a carburator or something. That would be pretty fair I think. Especially since he's a drag racer and I want to drive this car without having to adjust valves every weekend.