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Thread: What cam to use?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    mykle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Aug 2006
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    junction city
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    9

    I appreciate the replys. Unfortunately replacing the untire top end and cam just isn't going to be a viable solution. The parts on hand seem well matched just a bit too much to be cormfortable on the street. Looks like a big stall and then a trip to the track to get a time slip and sell the thing, I'm sure someone wants a car that's too fast to drive. LOL makes more sense to me than spending a bunch of money to try to slow the thing down and having a garage full of more expensive parts.

    I am curious about some of the replys...Erik, I follow on the cam needing 250 at .050, that's exactly what I came up with (the 292 cam), but I got there based on my compression rather than on the heads. I'm an old school guy, haven't played with this stuff in years, but we used to always look for the old camel hump heads that had 2.02/1.60, 64 cc chambers and i think 180 cc intake, they would work magic on a stock bottom end. I was really thinking these heads fit that exact mold, just 10cc extra in the intake runners. Does the extra 10cc make that much difference or were we just not as bright as we thought we were back then?? What criteria is stall converter speed based on? I'm seeing the 250 @ .050 cam showing it crosses the 350 tq mark at 2800 or 2900 and then back below it at just over 6000, so thought that looked like good numbers to go from. I'm assuming the cam in place is in this basic range as detonation is not a problem. What magic number of tq or hp should I be looking for? I mean if a 4500 stall is what this thing needs then that's what it gets, I just like to understand why it is I'm doing what I'm doing.

    Thankyou,
    Mike

  2. #2
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Aug 2004
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    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
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    2,878

    Quote Originally Posted by mykle
    I appreciate the replys. Unfortunately replacing the untire top end and cam just isn't going to be a viable solution. The parts on hand seem well matched just a bit too much to be cormfortable on the street. Looks like a big stall and then a trip to the track to get a time slip and sell the thing, I'm sure someone wants a car that's too fast to drive. LOL makes more sense to me than spending a bunch of money to try to slow the thing down and having a garage full of more expensive parts.

    I am curious about some of the replys...Erik, I follow on the cam needing 250 at .050, that's exactly what I came up with (the 292 cam), but I got there based on my compression rather than on the heads. I'm an old school guy, haven't played with this stuff in years, but we used to always look for the old camel hump heads that had 2.02/1.60, 64 cc chambers and i think 180 cc intake, they would work magic on a stock bottom end. I was really thinking these heads fit that exact mold, just 10cc extra in the intake runners. Does the extra 10cc make that much difference or were we just not as bright as we thought we were back then?? What criteria is stall converter speed based on? I'm seeing the 250 @ .050 cam showing it crosses the 350 tq mark at 2800 or 2900 and then back below it at just over 6000, so thought that looked like good numbers to go from. I'm assuming the cam in place is in this basic range as detonation is not a problem. What magic number of tq or hp should I be looking for? I mean if a 4500 stall is what this thing needs then that's what it gets, I just like to understand why it is I'm doing what I'm doing.

    Thankyou,
    Mike
    The 292 Comp. cam is 244 at .050.
    The double hump heads do not have a 180 cc port volume more like 160 cc.
    250 is the min. at .050 to make those heads work.
    Stall speed is effected by engine torque.
    For a 292 cam you need a 3000 to 3,500 stall.

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