What I believe you are talking about was/is for reducing radio static caused by the older type ignitions.
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What I believe you are talking about was/is for reducing radio static caused by the older type ignitions.
GMTA only some type faster :LOL:
havent gotten any further and more frustrated. I cant get the ignition switch out how do i get it out after the trim stops turning on the threads...(66 impala). it wont turn any further and im about to kick it out with my foot!
A good book on your car costs less than the first thing you break from kicking anything:CRY: ........dont ask me how I learned this lesson.Lets just say I was not smart enuff to listen to what others said ,I had too see for myself.:eek: :LOL:
alright i have the switch out...note: i didnt kick it! hahaha. anyway now im trying to figure out how to get the actual switch out of the assembly. this is an in dash ignition switch not column. i think there is a pin when you turn the key to get out but it looks as if i cant turn the key far enough to get the pin out?
thanks
rob
i have voltage on the plus side of coil i have to wait for the battery to charge before i can see the neg side of the coil flash on my test light. my voltmeter tells me. the wire that goes on the positive side of the coil has 12 volts alone but when i bolt it onto the coil it drops to 5. where am i losing 7 volts????
Just Updating I got her going!!! turns out the points had moved off the cam and werent opening at all. now i just have to set the dwell and get that timing dialed in. Can anyone tell me why my choke wont set and why the butterfly has to be all the way open for my car to start?? i know a little about carbs but not alot. 2 barrel Rochester manual choke(gas pedal)
thanks guys,
rob