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Thread: ring gap questions
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1
    I don't know about the rest of these guys, but I never assume anything when it comes to building a motor. I measure everything and in the case of pistons and rings, I talk to the manufacturer and get the recommended gaps for the application I'm building. Leave nothing to chance and you'll have no bad encounters.

    Just like with cams. NEVER, NEVER purchase a cam based on the information you get on this or any other forum. Many of us can get you close and you can compare cams from grinder to grinder based on the knowledge gained here, but before you lay down your hard-earned green, talk with a tech at the cam grinder, not a tech at summit or jegs.

    Words of wisdom, Read and Heed!!!!

    Assuming anything out of the box is correct can be a very costly assumption. Using Denny's method, it doesnt' take a whole lot of time to verify the ring gap. Same goes for the rest of the engine parts, verify the correct fit before you do the final assembly!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  2. #2
    jimmyjeep is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 S-10 357c.i.
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    I was reading a book on how to balance and blueprint a chevy sb, by Rick Voegelin, but it was a 1988 edition.. so I guess some things never change.
    TRW and Sealed Power are stated as the only two who make oversize, .005, file fit sets. I know this still isnt the case. Would anyone like to make a recommendation on who makes quality sets that are affordable. I imagine C & A make them, but I bet they are expensive.
    "oohh...thats gonna leave a mark!"

    1997 s-10, 357 C.I., 350 turbo, speedpro 11:1,Comp Cam custom grind mech. roller, Canfield heads, 1.6 roller rockers, edelbrock tm-1, holley 750sp, Hooker Headers, MSD, 3K B&M stall, 4:11 gears

  3. #3
    Big Tracks's Avatar
    Big Tracks is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    This is real elementary stuff and you probably know it already. I sure don't mean to insult you, but make certain that your rings are properly "clocked" (the gaps are properly spaced around the piston and not neatly lined up in a row), and the oil ring spacer gap should be lined up with the piston pin toward the rear of the engine.

    Also, make sure your oil rings are installed correctly with the spacer stopper pins facing in.

    Take it from somebody who has done it wrong despite having a piece of paper from the navy saying that he is an engine mechanic.

    Jim

  4. #4
    jimmyjeep is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Good stuff guys. I'm printing it and putting it in my home-made assembly manual. I hope thats all right with you guys.
    "oohh...thats gonna leave a mark!"

    1997 s-10, 357 C.I., 350 turbo, speedpro 11:1,Comp Cam custom grind mech. roller, Canfield heads, 1.6 roller rockers, edelbrock tm-1, holley 750sp, Hooker Headers, MSD, 3K B&M stall, 4:11 gears

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