when it comes to chevy's he definately is the man.... when it comes to fords... he refuses to give positive comments :LOL: :LOL: :CRY:
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when it comes to chevy's he definately is the man.... when it comes to fords... he refuses to give positive comments :LOL: :LOL: :CRY:
well ya can't blame him for his taste..........:LOL:
i have had to work on fords:eek: hey i needed the money:o
just like i've had to work an jags, needed the money.... but i made sure the customer understood, theres no such thing as a warranty on any work done on older jaguars:LOL:
is there enough money to work on a old jag? i work on one had a chevy V8 in it made headers for it
i did a tune up/ oil change / tires / allignment on one that had the factory motor and it didn't break down the whole time i was working on it.... it only had 12,000 miles on it.... if you dont count the tow trucks odometer too :LOL:
they said you needed two jags one to drive while the other one was in the shop or just one chevy:LOL:
GEE, THANKS PAT!!!!! (I think???):LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
ok just trying to help dave:whacked:
Hi jimmy,
basically, your screw-in studs are for when you want to use strong valve springs. The springs can be so hard they actually pull out the normal press-in studs, esp with 1.6s. I haven't heard of normal studs coming out in a mild street motor.
Guide-plates were invented for use with aluminum heads (at least that's what I heard), so the steel pushrods don't eat the softer alum. Many people put them in engines to minimize wear and it keeps the pushrods straight and lines up the rockers nicely. I wouldn't use either screw-in studs or guide plates in anything under about 300 horses if it costs me money to have them put in. Depending slightly on the rev-range you're going to work in, higher revs might warrant the screw-in studs. I've heard that 1.6s on the exhaust free up a bit of torque in the low end, combined with headers in any case they're a step towards new tires more often :LOL:
I wouldn't think twice if it was a mild rebuild, I would stay 1.5/1.5, stay press-in, go without guide plates and invest my money in intake/cam/exhaust.
Wish your wife a lot of fun with her "surprise" :LOL: ,
Max
i personally have run into studs pulling out on mild motors.... its usually with old heads with even just a mild cam, specially with stock rockers though, because the slot in the rocker was designed for a standard lift cam, add a little extra lift and the end of the slot pushes against the stud in an upward motion which slowly pulls it out
I was assuming they don't pull out if nothing else is wrong. Of course a too short slot can pull them out and a cracked tower can be the cause of one becoming loose, too. But I've never seen one being pulld out on a healthy head with near stock components.
Max