SBC combinations that work

I come across some interesting combos while surfing and thought I would start a new thread detailing them. I'm only going to list ones that have been proven by dyno. All the rest of you guys are invited to add combos you find as well.

Combination:
Up to this point, all the engines I had built were for racing only. This was my first street/strip motor and my main concerns were drivability and cost .... 030 over 2 bolt block, KB 9.5 Pistons, Cast Crank, Solid Cam 230/240 @ 0.50, .498/.503 Lift @ 107D Lobe Center, Cam installed 3 Deg. Advanced, 1.5 Rollers, Out of the box world S/R Tourquer heads (2.02/1.60), Perf. RPM Intake w/Barry Grant Sports Claw 750 (now known as "Demon") Carb, HEI ign w/30 deg. all in by 2500 RPM.
Total cost including block ...... $2700.
Dyno'd @ 452 HP @ 6100 RPM. In 69 Camaro w/3.73, at 1000 Ft. altitude, 11.80's @ 117. All day long! Driven 55 miles round trip to work 5 days a week for 8 months. Driven to and from track ... "You don't need cubic money." I've been doing this a long time and it bugs me that alot of young guys are talked into spending more than they have, to go fast. Bitchen rods don't make H.P. Steel cranks are made to survive at high RPM. Make torque! The horsepower will follow, AND the engine will survive .... Great Combo - Try It!

Nice tech, wheres the pics ? Allways like seeing well thought out and built small block chevies. Like you say, you dont need a wheelbarrow full of money, just realistiic engine performance targets and care in how the motor is put together.

"wheres the pics ?"

Small block Chevies all look alike. We don't need no stinkin' pictures :LOL:

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

"wheres the pics ?"

Small block Chevies all look alike. We don't need no stinkin' pictures :LOL:

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But I like the artwork:rolleyes:

Looks like a good budget combination with a very large dose of common sense applied. Don't need no stinkin' art work, the dyno results paint a very nice picture for me!!!!!! Now, if it were a 383 stroker, where would one be advised to go with the cam????

Posted by Dave Severson:
"Now, if it were a 383 stroker, where would one be advised to go with the cam????"

Dave, the new static compression ratio with a 3.750 crank and everything else the same would be 10.22:1. I would actually use a little less cam than he did. Notice that he had to advance it 3 degrees over the already 4 degrees that the cam grinder advanced it in order to make it work in the smaller (355) motor.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft
I'd probably use a cam something like this. It's ground on a 114 LSA. You know how I am, I don't give two hoots for the rump-rump. Heck, I'm looking for manifold vacuum :) Someone else might prefer a cam ground on a tighter LSA.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

I come across some interesting combos while surfing and thought I would start a new thread detailing them. I'm only going to list ones that have been proven by dyno. All the rest of you guys are invited to add combos you find as well.

Combination:
Up to this point, all the engines I had built were for racing only. This was my first street/strip motor and my main concerns were drivability and cost .... 030 over 2 bolt block, KB 9.5 Pistons, Cast Crank, Solid Cam 230/240 @ 0.50, .498/.503 Lift @ 107D Lobe Center, Cam installed 3 Deg. Advanced, 1.5 Rollers, Out of the box world S/R Tourquer heads (2.02/1.60), Perf. RPM Intake w/Barry Grant Sports Claw 750 (now known as "Demon") Carb, HEI ign w/30 deg. all in by 2500 RPM.
Total cost including block ...... $2700.
Dyno'd @ 452 HP @ 6100 RPM. In 69 Camaro w/3.73, at 1000 Ft. altitude, 11.80's @ 117. All day long! Driven 55 miles round trip to work 5 days a week for 8 months. Driven to and from track ... "You don't need cubic money." I've been doing this a long time and it bugs me that alot of young guys are talked into spending more than they have, to go fast. Bitchen rods don't make H.P. Steel cranks are made to survive at high RPM. Make torque! The horsepower will follow, AND the engine will survive .... Great Combo - Try It!

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Nice specs, I have plenty of spare parts, I'm gonna build me one based on these specs. Only difference is that I have a brand new victor junior manifold gathering dust. :cool: :3dSMILE:

Oh and what type of torquers are they open or closed chamber ? And also have you got the name part number of the cam and when the intake closes ? thanks

Hmmm the page wont update ....Anyway What are the torquers, open or closed chambers ? What is the name and part number for the cam ? And how many degrees ABDC does the intake valve close, and what was the octane rating for the gas ? Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

I come across some interesting combos while surfing and thought I would start a new thread detailing them. I'm only going to list ones that have been proven by dyno. All the rest of you guys are invited to add combos you find as well.

Combination:
Up to this point, all the engines I had built were for racing only. This was my first street/strip motor and my main concerns were drivability and cost .... 030 over 2 bolt block, KB 9.5 Pistons, Cast Crank, Solid Cam 230/240 @ 0.50, .498/.503 Lift @ 107D Lobe Center, Cam installed 3 Deg. Advanced, 1.5 Rollers, Out of the box world S/R Tourquer heads (2.02/1.60), Perf. RPM Intake w/Barry Grant Sports Claw 750 (now known as "Demon") Carb, HEI ign w/30 deg. all in by 2500 RPM.
Total cost including block ...... $2700.
Dyno'd @ 452 HP @ 6100 RPM. In 69 Camaro w/3.73, at 1000 Ft. altitude, 11.80's @ 117. All day long! Driven 55 miles round trip to work 5 days a week for 8 months. Driven to and from track ... "You don't need cubic money." I've been doing this a long time and it bugs me that alot of young guys are talked into spending more than they have, to go fast. Bitchen rods don't make H.P. Steel cranks are made to survive at high RPM. Make torque! The horsepower will follow, AND the engine will survive .... Great Combo - Try It!

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Great combo ,only thing to remember is motor is pretty much maxed out . The crank and 2 bolt block would not handle much more power or power adders like nitrous.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by southerner

Hmmm the page wont update ....Anyway What are the torquers, open or closed chambers ? What is the name and part number for the cam ? And how many degrees ABDC does the intake valve close, and what was the octane rating for the gas ? Thanks.

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Sorry, I have no further info on this build. :confused: :(

Quote:

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You know how I am, I don't give two hoots for the rump-rump.

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Gee, tech - what are your friends at the drive in going to think? :LOL:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Gee, tech - what are your friends at the drive in going to think? :LOL:

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At my age, I don't particularly care what anyone thinks :LOL:

what would be a good source on how to degree a cam. btw does anyone have any extra heads perferably with 64cc chambers?

"what would be a good source on how to degree a cam?"

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../Files/145.pdf

Degreeing instructions begin on page 8. If you don't have a degree wheel yet, I recommend the Moroso 11" wheel, it's what I use. Part number MOR62190, $29.95 from www.summitracing.com
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...09887&D=309887

# City: Orlando
# Combo: Small Block
# Engine: 355.1
# Transmission: TH-350
# Year: 1969
# Body_Style: Camaro SS

Comments:

Stock 4bolt 350, stock GM steel crank, GM PM rods 5.7, speedpro powerforged 9.0:1 pistons.AFR 195 aluminum heads out the box, victor jr singleplane,ATI D-1B procharger 12psi@6000 3row sheetmetal intercooler blowing through a holly 650 4777. comp cams 236/256 .555/.575 114lobe solid flat tappet Removed M-21 munci installed TCI 10inch street fighter with TH-350. original 8.2inch 10 bolt upgrades U.S. strange positrac, 3:73 gears and alloy street axles. cal-tracs, adjustable drag shocks rear set at 40/60. Front moroso trick coil springs, adjustable shocks 20/80. All energy suspension body,leafspring, eng/trans mounts. rolling on a set of convo pro centerlines 28-10.5-15 et streets rear and a set of 15-4.5 et fronts. this car is 100% frame of restoration original, 99% street driven no weight mods full interior 93 octane no booster first pass at track after engine build..... 9.89 @ 146mph 1.66 60ft.. DAMAGE SUSTANED... FRONT WINDOW CRACKED IN HALF AFTER FRONT WHEELS CAME OFF GROUND!!!!!! after first pass took home installed weld in frame connectors never went back because officals at track said i had to have a roll cage......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Posted by Dave Severson:
"Now, if it were a 383 stroker, where would one be advised to go with the cam????"

Dave, the new static compression ratio with a 3.750 crank and everything else the same would be 10.22:1. I would actually use a little less cam than he did. Notice that he had to advance it 3 degrees over the already 4 degrees that the cam grinder advanced it in order to make it work in the smaller (355) motor.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft
I'd probably use a cam something like this. It's ground on a 114 LSA. You know how I am, I don't give two hoots for the rump-rump. Heck, I'm looking for manifold vacuum :) Someone else might prefer a cam ground on a tighter LSA.

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Thanks Tech. I guess like you, I would rather go fast then sound fast!!!!!