355 vs 400 (.060)over

right now i'm thinking of going over to a 355 instead of my 400 which is .060 over. i'm just for looking 425hp engine thats going to be street legal and also weekend drag strip runner. the original 400 combo, 4.185 bore,3.75 stroke, 9.5:1 comp, 230dur flat cam, ported vortecs with big valves,5.7 350 rods, dual plane intake, 1 5/8 headers, 750 holley. the heads are just to small for the size of this engine, 412ci -170cc intake port.
I'm thinking of running 355ci, 10.5:1 comp, 235/240dur roller. the same heads, with victor jr. intake, 750 holley, 1/ 3/4 headers, 2800 stall, 3.90 gears, t 350
the motor would be put into late model camaro 1990 and the car weighs 3400lbs and will strip down to 3200 lbs.
lot of people tell me that the 355 will walk that 400, simply because the higher rpm range where power is being made, and also the 355 doesn't have the excessive torque (525 lbs of TQ) which means the car is more likely to get traction, where as the 400 will just spin it ass off. people also say the 355 is a better street/strip engine and this 400 would be better off in 4wd truck since the peak torque is at 3300rpm where as the 355 would probably be at 4600. any thoughs or opinions?

IMO nothing beats torque in a street car.... Higher RPM just costs more $$$$$

Unless you do some modifications to the suspension and put some gumball tires on the Camaro, anything more then a V-6 will blow the tires off it. Will you be running an automatic? Curious where you came up with the torque guesstimate of 525????

I believe that Camaro will hook up really well ...........

I don't know about a 355 walking a 400 though. No way if they are similarly built.

It's always better to have more than not enough IMO. There are many ways to get her to connect, but there ain't nothing you can do with a V-6 in a 3200 lb car .....

Kitz

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Originally Posted by vortec king

right now i'm thinking of going over to a 355 instead of my 400 which is .060 over. i'm just for looking 425hp engine thats going to be street legal and also weekend drag strip runner. the original 400 combo, 4.185 bore,3.75 stroke, 9.5:1 comp, 230dur flat cam, ported vortecs with big valves,5.7 350 rods, dual plane intake, 1 5/8 headers, 750 holley. the heads are just to small for the size of this engine, 412ci -170cc intake port.
I'm thinking of running 355ci, 10.5:1 comp, 235/240dur roller. the same heads, with victor jr. intake, 750 holley, 1/ 3/4 headers, 2800 stall, 3.90 gears, t 350
the motor would be put into late model camaro 1990 and the car weighs 3400lbs and will strip down to 3200 lbs.
lot of people tell me that the 355 will walk that 400, simply because the higher rpm range where power is being made, and also the 355 doesn't have the excessive torque (525 lbs of TQ) which means the car is more likely to get traction, where as the 400 will just spin it ass off. people also say the 355 is a better street/strip engine and this 400 would be better off in 4wd truck since the peak torque is at 3300rpm where as the 355 would probably be at 4600. any thoughs or opinions?

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I.M.O.,I would build a 383 over the 400 any day of the week.
Like you said the 170 cc heads are to small for the 412.
If you have a 350 block why not use the 3.75 stroke crank and build a 383?

Agree that for spirited use the longer rods of the 383 will kinda stick around a lot longer than those stubby 400 rods.
If your gonna pull rpm out of it build a 383

Just to throw some stuff out here .....425 hp is 425 hp at 3500 rpm or 5000 and its also the same at 355 ci or 421 ci. the car has to be set-up for what ever motor and rpm fits your application....and most importantly your pocket book...:whacked:

why not put the 350 crank in the 400 ! and have a 377 :D

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

why not put the 350 crank in the 400 ! and have a 377 :D

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Torque is king on the streets.
The 377 is just a large 350.
The 377 will work great if you like to gear the living $hit out of it.
Scooter,I think we have talked before about this before.:)

:mad: sure................................ 3.73's arent bad :LOL:

all a 383 is, is a short bore 400, I personally don't know anyone that races a short rod (5.56) 400 since there is a horrible rod ratio that robs power, everyone now days runs longer rod (5.70-6.00) 400's since pistons are widely available, yes, in my case a 383 would be better since 170cc intake ports feed 383 cubes better than 412 cubes, but if my intake ports were larger i would go with the 400. heres a good question for you guys, what would you go with if they were the exact same price-406 or 383?

I have a 1971 Jaguar XJ6 with a 406 sbc/700R4 trans and 3.83 rear gears. This car weighs about 4200 and it moves!

BTW, 425 hp and 525 lbs of torque is about right for a 406. Thats in the range of where mine is at.

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Originally Posted by vortec king

heres a good question for you guys, what would you go with if they were the exact same price-406 or 383?

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neither id build a 283:3dSMILE:

My choice would be a long rod 383. From what I've seen and taling to others who have run them, they produce excellent torque and when built right have excellent reliability and life expectancy. For street purposes a moderate engine package is usually best, save the radical stuff for the track where chassis mods and slicks will at least let you hook it up..... Smokey burnouts are fun, but they don't accomplish much on the street other then wear out your tires. Reasonable horsepower and torque levels that can be hooked up with street tires and suspension is the best way to go fast.....

Let me screw up your day completely with starting research over. The 377 chebbie??? Look into and ask around to hear other thoughts about building a 377.
Allows you to build around a forged crank VS the cast option of the 383, yes you can spend $$ for aftermarket crank but most do not. Allows use of GM hot rod or performance rods but aftermarket are about as cheap when doing all the right reworks of rebuilding stock rods properly. Allows non -Siamesed cylinders on 5-7 and 4-6. (with 350 block only) Allows tons of head selection and no ?? about steam holes or not and more options for head gaskets.
Downside = Uses smaller crank - rod diameter but with todays oil and oiling mods not sure it is a big deal but it is a ?? You do loose a few cubic inches from 383 to 377?? Does require block clearance grinding and heavy metal in crank but so does the 383 so a wash I think. Less popular build so piston selection is .
SPECIFICATIONS. Bore: 4.125. Rod Length: 6. or at least 1 way to get there.

Don't some argue that the higher reving motor can out distance a lower RPM motor if all else is 'equal' due to pulsations/revolutions of the drive train???

Denny, glad you like my signature:LOL: In all honesty, the most reliable,dependable car I ever owned was a 71 Maverick. It never broke down. And the worst was Chevy Citation:CRY: Oil light and choke light were the same and I guessed wrong when it came on:CRY: :CRY: :CRY:

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Originally Posted by FAYLUR

Denny, glad you like my signature:LOL: In all honesty, the most reliable,dependable car I ever owned was a 71 Maverick. It never broke down. And the worst was Chevy Citation:CRY: Oil light and choke light were the same and I guessed wrong when it came on:CRY: :CRY: :CRY:

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Oil light and a choke light?? where the same?
Thats funny.:whacked:
You know they did have a funny little thing on them called a "dip-stick" which means you could believe it or not check the oil before it got to low and the low oil pressure triggered the oil light.:LOL: :whacked:

Erik, the oil level was right on the money. The pump went out. When I tore it apart I found that the motor was a rebuilt one and the oil pump was rebuilt and should have been tossed instead. It was bought from a small used car lot that does it's own repairs/upgrades/downgrades/ripoffs/etc. I'm not complaining because I felt that I got my money's worth out of it.

i have a 71sbc 400 that is .30 over and i have a 144 weiand blower wanted 2 know if that was a good combo for street use in my 81 Z28 (the sled)and would it be 2 much 2 take it .40 over i will be using kb-30cc dish pistons 4 the lower compression and a 76cc head with steam holes also i have a built 350 turbo with a b&m holeshot 2400 and a eaton posi with 373 thanx

its really hard to have too much torque. on the street, its torque that moves the car and for the money i would use the 400. the vortec heads with their small intake runners will keep port velocity up which in turn will efficiently fill the 400's cylinders,(this will also make the engine more responsive versus using too big of a port and too big of a cam which will make the engine sluggish) this is a result of the short rod, long stroke combination which has faster piston speed at top dead center. also, you will make peak torque and horsepower below 6000rpm so the engine should live a long time. all in all its hard to beat cubic inches,

thanx buddy