You can get each to reach the same maximum HP.If they were all made to make 1000 horses, will one be better than the other on a 1/8 mile dragstrip,1/4 mile dragsrip?
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You can get each to reach the same maximum HP.If they were all made to make 1000 horses, will one be better than the other on a 1/8 mile dragstrip,1/4 mile dragsrip?
Oh,no here we go again.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
First we will have to look at aftermarket blocks to handle the hp.
I would not use an aftermarket block to try and build a 350 out of.
I would build a 434+ cube engine.
To make a 1,000 hp sbc you will need very good parts ie-heads,crank,rods,piston,cam.
Just don't be afraid to get out the old check-book,
We could be here all day on this one.:whacked: :whacked:
Well, if we're talking a bracket car then it probably doesn't matter a whole lot which engine or what horsepower as long as it can perform the same round after round... IMO you would want to build what ever size engine for reliability rather then highest possible horse for a bracket racer or any of the Super Classes where a breakout is a factor. As a standard rule I tried to run my bracket engines at about 80% of their full potential sacrificing the lower ET to consistency. I ran a Super Gas car a couple of summers that would run a best of 9.70's, then used the rev limiter and a throttle stop to bring it back to 9.90....
Unless you're running heads up, the high horse engines really have no advantage...
Well with the max hp ,and torque being the same on all the engines ,which will give the lowest e.t.?:confused: Will one have a advantage in achieving max horsepower sooner?
The bigger cube, longer stroke engines will generally develp more torque and launch harder then smaller cube engines at a given RPM.... The track doesn't really care what size engine it is, just what the hp and torque numbers are. If you are looking for the best et at the lowest rpm, then go to a big block engine in a light car. Best bracket car I ever had was 2400 pounds and 540 torque.....
Getting the lowest et isn't necessarily going to be the winningest car. The ones that win the most can turn the same ET round after round..... IMO this means not making every pass at 100% output of your car, but a lower level that you can repeat. Winningest bracket car I ever had was a Maverick that only ran 13.40's, but it would be within a few hundreths of a second every pass....
Are you going bracket racing???? If so, how fast it runs is irrelevant.... All that matters is turning the same ET every time.....
Couple years ago in a Gamblers Bracket on Sat. night, watched a 15.30 sec. Dodge Dart beat a lightweight Nova that could run as fast as 9.80's. Well, the little Dart dialed in a 15.30, ran a 15.308.... The Nova dialed in a 10.30, ran a 10.06 and broke out...... Sure was fun watching a car get a 5 second head start...!!!!!!
One of my favorite quotes: "There's no replacement for displacement"
Start with maximum cubes and the rest will follow. Should be more reliable torque and power in a bigger motor.
At these 400+ ci, I would opt for a big block over the small block, but that's just my preference.... two ways to make big power: big torque, and big rpms. Start with big torque and you'll spend less time fixing grenaded motors (and more time fixing grenaded trannys, rears, and axles)
two cents,
Chris
It all comes down to application.!!!Exactly what the motor is being used for makes all the difference.
IMO.....the bigger cubed motor will be at of an advantage due to the size factor. although getting a 350 to 1000hp isnt cost effective in my opinion. If you must use a small block, aftermarket big cube block all the way.So in essence it will be easier for a 434" small block to make 1000hp than a smaller bore to make the same power especially with the stroke difference in a 350 compared to a 400....bigger crank altogether. I am sure this could be fought over for days. if both motors were of equal hp/tq...identical cars etc....I think the one that would be the most reliable and consistant would be the bigger cubed motor just becuase of the heavier internals over the 350.
drag racing.Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
Whats cost more 1000hp 350, or 1000hp 400 plus?
Go big,and at that horse power level there is not big difference in price,500-1000 dollars maybe? Minimal money at that level of hp considering the amount the engine will cost.....Just save room for some rebores on the new aftermarkett block ,dont max bore it the first time.Thats for a small block,a big block seems to be the popular choice at that hp level because of longevity and would cost a few thousand more to build,...but it starts at 454 cubic inches and goes up!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
Doesn't matter what size sbc you build, if you want 1,000 horse plan on buying a billet crank, billet rods, small base circle roller cam, CNC ported aluminum heads, expensive forged pistons, quality studs and hardware all the way through, probably a dry sump oiling system, etc. If you have really good buying power, might get most of the parts for around $15,000...... Then when it's all done build a spare just like it because these 1000 hp engines are right on the edge and don't live very long........ What kind of drag racing are you going to do????
A 1,000 hp sbc is great if you like to work on things all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
You know run the valves,change valve springs every 20 th pass or so.:LOL:
383 stroker Baby!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
Although bigger is better, size is irrevelant. If you have a 283 making 500hp and a 383 making 500hp, you convert and gear them to run at 500hp. If the 283 makes it's power at 6500-8500, you stall and gear it to keep it in that rpm range. Same with the 383.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
Figure your race weight, then the E.T. you want, then the power it will take to get there and build accordingly.
EX.1. Small Cube
Race weight (driver, fuel, etc) 3000lbs
Want to run 10.50
Need 500hp to push 3000 lbs. to 10.50 @ 129mph
6500 stall, 30" tire, 5.45 gear, 8500 rpm redline
EX.2. Big Cube
Race weight (driver, fuel, etc) 3000lbs
Want to run 10.50
Need 500hp to push 3000 lbs. to 10.50 @ 129mph
4500 stall, 30" tire, 4.16 gear, 6500 rpm redline
In a street/strip car, bigger would be preferred due to compromises that have to be made. 600hp with less stall and gear would still net 10.50's while maintaining a certain "drivable" aspect.
In a drag only car, bigger would allow low speed torque to do the work without the need to spin 8500 rpm = more reliability.
The smaller engine may help overcome starting line obstacles (traction) with a "lower than optimal" stall. (just trying to find something positive about a small build :D )
It really comes down to cycles.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
If you are bracket racing and you want to run a 10.90 in the Super Street class.
If you can build a large 434+ cube sbc say that makes max. hp at 6,800 and you can build with less valve spring in other words a cam with less lift and duration it will mean more run time,less time running the valves less times you have to re-ring,re-bearing etc.
In other word why build a 350 that you have to twist to 8,000+ rpm's to do the same thing.
If you want to see an engine that lasts along time look at the 540/565 BBC that last a long time look at the guys that run the "throttle stop" rail dragster.
He will run the valves every month and you might find a few that
I built a "throttle stop" engine for a customer over 3 years ago.
All I ever do is re-ring and re-bearing and install new valve springs every year.
The engine still has the same rotating assembly in it.
This guy bracket races it every Saturday.
Yeah, what Erik said. My 512 is on a stand in the garage, has 5 years on it. Built it with all good parts the first time. It's been in different cars and different classes. Has had new rings and bearings twice and one new set of valve springs, keepers, and retainers. The rebuilds were done as regular maintenance and not for broken parts. If I decide to to go play with the kids again next summer, all it will need is a quick freshening.....
PS..... I run a rev limiter on it. It's never been past 6300 RPM and ran 10.90's Super Street Class with a throttle stop.....