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I have just finished the build on my coupe and have tuned and finally got the right carb. set up.I have put about 15 (easy)Mi. in the neighbor hood.What is a good break in procedure on a performance engine with 450 hp,700r4, 3.70 gears,no lock out,and 750 cfm holley.
Don in Austin **) **)
i dont know if its right, but ive always been told to break it in the way you normally drive
Stop and go driving isn't the best thing for a new engine. Take it out on the highway for a cruise. No extended idling, and alternate pulling and coasting for 500 miles or so.
I would try to vary the rpm's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Dalton
To change the oil splash.
In other words cruise at 50 mph in 3rd gear for a few miles and then shift into over drive and run it down the interstate at 70 mph.
Watch your engine temp and don't tow and advoid extended idleling.
If you have not changed your oil and filter I would to get rid of the cam lube,bearing guard etc.
I would not use a heavy weight oil at first I would try to use a 10w 30 or a 5w 30 to make sure the oil gets there quicker.
After about 5,000 miles I would run what ever you want for oil weight.
Keep in mind if it has moly or plasma moly rings it will take a long time to get the rings to seat.
What do you mean by "no lock out?" Converter with no lock up? If so, how do you control overheating the trans in OD?
The most important thing is to keep the revs up, 2000-2500 rpm for the first 30 minutes of run time to keep plenty of oil flowing to the cam. The rest of the break-in depends on the rings you used. Chrome rings take the longest to break in, followed by ductile iron. Moly rings break in the most quickly. If you used moly rings, it will take about 300-500 miles for the full break-in. Change the oil at 500 miles or so, I waited until 1200 to change my oil. It's not really a big deal. Most new engine oils carry an API SM grade. The new generation of SM oils doesn't have the zinc additives that flat tappet cams need to survive. The only SL oils still for sale are the heavy duty oils for diesel engines like Chevron Delo 400 and Shell Rotella. It might be a good idea to run Delo 400 15w40 for your initial break-in. If not, your GM dealer sells an oil supplement with zinc for flat tappet cams. I broke my engine in on Castrol 10w30, an SM oil. This isn't that big of a deal, either.
I am presently running the transmission with out lock up (sorry) and cooling thru the radiator. Is this a problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Don In Austin**) **)
I am using Pennzoil 10w 40w.I have changed the oil twice already (carb leak problem previous thread) and after about 15 min.running the second time.I now have about 12 Mi. on the 3rd oil.The pistons are KB hypereutectic T 6 Alloy.Rings I don't have a clue as I purchased the engine from a guy here in Austin.The engine was built in Nashville ,Tn by Tony SizemoreQuote:
Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
a NASCAR affiliate(I hope) whom I have not been able to locate ,any how the engine appears to be strong,I might have it Dyno checked. What do you think?
Don In Austin**) **)
Running a 700-R4 in overdrive with no lockup is a big heat generator, and can cause early transmission failure. That's why the lockup is there - other than to increase mileage. This is especially important with high HP engines and increased stall converters. Check with whoever built/supplied your trans about what to do.
Some trans suppliers won't warranty a performance R4 unless there's both a radiator tank cooler and an auxiliary cooler - although most people seem to get buy with just the auxiliary cooler.
Seriously, check it out.
Is it a roller cam or a standard hydraulic. Roller cam motors are much easier to break in. Little worry about lobe wipe-out.
The first 20 minutes of run time is to break in the cam. The rest of the time is for the cylinders. There should be no break-in required on the bearings. You'll know when your cylinders are broken in when the engine stops burning oil. I burnt a quart within the first 1200 miles, I haven't burnt a drop since with over 12,000 miles on the engine. I am doing oil changes on conventional oil at 5000-6000 miles (mostly highway).
The Titanium Nitride or the Plasma moly rings are harder than the Chromium Nitride rings.Quote:
Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
But you have to look at the surface finish on the cylinder walls. Moly rings use a very fine hone grit and there is very little wearing in to be done on the cylinder walls.
It's has roller rockers and Rhoads Lifters(indexed lifter ports) as I did not get a card with the cam I can only guess it is a Roller cam.AS I stated earlier until I tear this engine down I can only guess as the original builder ,I have not been able to find.The engine appears to run strong.l'll know more after break in.The valves adjust with no up and down movement plus one half turn(per Rhodes) which is a little different from hydraulic lifters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Don In Austin**) **)
With Rhoads lifters, I doubt it is a roller cam. I don't believe they make roller lifters.
Denny;I was under the impression most hydraulic valves are adjusted by turning or rotating the rod and not up and down.I could easily turn the rod after taking the up and down motion out.Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
Don In Austin**)
The Moly,Plasma moly,Chromium Nitrided,Gas Nitrided,Titanium Nitrided rings will still take much longer to seat compared to a stock style cast ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
All these listed are a very hard material and will take some time to seat.
In one of our IMCA mod. engines which turns 7,500 + and has over 13 to 1 comp. ratio we have had rings that have taken three or more nights to seat.
This is about like running a drag car half a season.
There are many varibles such as cylinder finish,cross hatch, the type of oil used,additives etc.
.....Drive it like you stole it ;)...... zzzQuote:
Originally Posted by Don Dalton
The rings don't wear, just the cylinder walls. Just because the rings are hard doesn't mean they are slow to break-in because the rings themselves don't really break-in.
If you look at the cylinder walls under magnafiaction you will see peaks and valley's the whole idea is to have these surface's mate together over time this is how you get good ring seal and build horsepower.Quote:
Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
The initial start-up at 2000-2500 rpm idle for 20 minutes is for breaking in the cam. The rings also need to be set. I like the break in procedure that came with my ZZ502 (hydraulic roller engine). In summary,
1) Start and set timing, check for leaks etc
2) Drive for 30 miles. During the first 30 miles no full throttle romps or continuous throttle prolonged runs. Do 5-6 half-throttle accels to 60 mph letting off in gear each time down to 20-30 mph. Do 5-6 3/4 throttle runs to 60 mph letting off the throttle each time in gear.
3) Change oil, retorque heads (good idea for all aluminum head engines)
4) Drive normally for 500 miles. No full throttle runs and no prolonged runs at the same rpm.
5) Change oil
6) Engine is now ready to rock and roll!
The first 30 miles is really designed to set the rings. The next 500 breaks in the rings and cylinder bores. Makes some sense to me ............
Kitz
Thanks to all that responded I'll keep you posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
Thanks
Don In Austin**) **)