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I've got bare block 350 4 b.m .030 over going in 1980 monza. trans 350 turbo, rear end 10 bolt posi 3.73 or 4.11. build an engine that will just shit and get with nos adjustable h.p boost 150max. bare cast heads.
Build me a monster motor for 2000.00 dollars.
You should spend half of that money on heads. Don't worry about the NOS so you can save money using hypereutectic pistons and maybe a cast crank. Aim for 9.5-10:1 compression and put in a cam with an advertized duration in the high 270 degree to 280 degree range. Aim for a redline less than 6500 to keep the budget down.
How fast can you spin a cast crank?
I you can get any tracation you will blow the rear end out very quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by crmonzav8
I you really want a monster engine you will have to spend a lot more than $2,000.
The best built 350 4 bolt main, oil pan to carb?Quote:
Originally Posted by crmonzav8
Two Thousand Dollars?????
All 2 grand will get you is a decent rebuild on that 350. It won't even scratch the surface of what your title aludes too...
Buy a crate motor and stuff it in there. More then enough power for the Monza and it WILL sh!t & git...
Mark
Good call.Quote:
Originally Posted by astroracer
383 kit ,vortec heads ,rpm air gap and extreme energy cam and call it done.
Destroke it ,to loose bottom end, spend money on crank ,rods and pistons, valve gear,spin it to the moon.There are about 400 diferent combos,you need to know what you want out of this deal?street racin ,drag racin,road course,tire melter,high speed pull?:whacked:
This may cost a little bit more than $2,000 or a lot more.Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
Wow, I havent put together an engine for $2000 (or less) for
over 15 years!!!......
A guy can pretty easily build a good running motor for under 2000 dollars. Vizard shows you how to build a GOOD DEPENDABLE motor for under 500 dollars. It's possible to build a strong motor for under 2 grand but a MONSTER is a different story. I learned that the hard way. I thought, "$2500 is a good budget to build a strong street motor out of." Now, 6 months and nearly $3000 dollars later, I have another $1000 to spend in top end parts (head machining, carburator, intake, headers, ect) and I've got about $1000 to spend on the rearend to set it up /w a 4.11 and posi.
My point is: building a strong motor will reflect on the rest of your car. By that I mean, a ground thundering engine will require a "bulletproof" tranny and rearend if you ever actually plant your back tires. Would be a shame to go for your first launch with a brand new motor and lose because you spit the axle out the side of your car.
You might want to check the date on you Vizard book.L.O.L.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper111
no sir, there's a combination in Vizards "How to build max performance chevy small blocks on a budget" that runs just under $500 dollars. Sure, it's low HP low compression, but it's dependable and makes good enough vacuum. NOTICE THAT I SAID GOOD, DEPENDABLE. NOT GOOD AND POWERFUL. Anyway, i'm not gonna argue because this post is about high performance 350, not everyday driver 350. there's a huge price difference. Factory spec rebuilt = rings, bearings, gaskets and minimal machining. That's not that hard to do under $500. I may be slightly off on the price figure, its been months since i've read the book and i'm currently at work. but 500 seems about right for what the motor offered.
So why did you make this ludicrous post??? Are you serious??? That's not that hard to do under $500 ??? When was the last time you bought parts or had any machine work done???Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper111
thanks guys for all the replies.i know theres really no right answer, but all of you made valid points. many ways to go just picking right way to go about it.
thank you ,
crmonzav8.
there's no reason for name calling here. My point was that with a monster engine comes monster prices in other places. The motor can be built for under $2000, will it have 500 hp? not likely but $2000 dollars is a reasonable budget for a good street engine. The part that won't be covered is the extra expenses from upgrading the rearend/suspension/tranny/torque converter/ect. Again, there's no reason to get nasty about it. Also, remember that pricing has a lot to do with the extent of what your doing/the area in which you live/ect. I've heard stories from the northern states that talk about 3 and 4 hundred dollars for a SBC 350, and upwards of $1000 for a SBC 400. Here a SBC 4 bolt 350 goes for 50-100 and a 400 will bring about 150-200. So its not fair to jump down my throat because things come cheaper to me because i live in a hick state where there are lots of these motors floating around from wrecked pickups from the 80's and older cars ect. Thanks, and i didn't mean to piss anyone off with my post. And to answer your question about when was the last time that i bought parts and machine work. I actually just got done paying for parts/machine work. For a FULL RACE SBC 400 i'm in @ $4000 dollars /w torque converter and retro-fit roller valve train. (This included fully prepped block, cast steel crank, forged rods, forged pistons, valve job on my heads,
:HMMM: :HMMM:
You know ???? After reading through all these posts, there is not one mention of labour cost for assembling the short or long block. This alone has a major way of increasing engine costs drastically.
I have read Vizards book, my conclusion is : that it has a lot of commonnsense approaches to engine assembling. And the author assumes that you will be doing the assembly yourself. And he rightly points out that a major horsepower earner is correct machining and clearances of the parts and how they fit together... And also how you the builder put them together.
We should all know by now that a good H.P. engine is parts that are picked that work together as a whole.
BUT I WILL PERSONALLY GUARANTEE, That the horsepower stakes are won or lost in correct parts assembly and how you did it.
**) A good example is valve train geometry, measure it get it right and the engine gains horsepower. If you did not even bother to try or gave up onthe measuring, then the motor is down on power and up on wear. :CRY: