Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: What would cause this lifter failure (pics attached)
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 16 to 23 of 23
  1. #16
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Oil Package

     



    Does anyone remember when the oil companies started to take zinc out of their oil.
    I wonder with a flat tappet cam how much this will effect things?

  2. #17
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Joe Gibbs Oil

     



    Denny,take a look at this web site.www.JoeGibbsRacingOil.com
    Then click under Why use JGR oil?
    If you scroll down father you will also see some info. from Exxon.

  3. #18
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Springfield
    Car Year, Make, Model: '66 Mustang, 76 Corvette
    Posts
    5,352

    Denny, is it safe to assume that you're not a fan of Lucas oil additive?
    Since I bought the '91 Dakota with 145 plus on the clock I've used that along with Castol high mileage 5W-30 oil. It's a 318 with TBI and at the present time I don't want to rebuild as the engine doesn't smoke and uses less than a quart between oil changes (300 miles). What would you recommend?
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  4. #19
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW
    Really good info. If you notice though, after 1.5 hours or so, (100-150 laps), they do say drain and replace oil for extended protection. It sounds like good stuff, but I use this, Schaeffer for years, and have had really good results. You must understand that I don't do full out racing, but have done some serious street and early drag races. Most of my replies are related to guys that build things for fun, street race, and do not have money for the big buck engines. (That sure would be nice though).

    When I have built engines on a regular bases, I would build them to exceed what ever the customer wanted. I pretty much blue printed all the motors I did, even the daily drivers.

    I know things are changing, and sometimes I fall behind a little on the latest changes.

    http://www.cincy-racing.com/schaeffer/news.htm
    The XP1 oil is for engines that operate at 250 F,over 9,500 rpm's,and 500 miles.
    In the last year we have tightend up all our oil clearance's and we run a mix of the XP1 and the XP3.
    We use to take out the inner spring on our flat tappet engines now we just use the "break in oil " for all the flat tappet engines.
    We simply bring the rpm's up to about 2,500 and vary them every 2 min. up and down about 500 rpm's we break the cam in for about 25 min. with this method.We have had zero failures in over 35 engines.
    We have also upped are seat pressure another 10 lbs. on the last 8 engines.
    Are we right? Are we lucky?I don't know but so far so good.

  5. #20
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Quote Originally Posted by NTFDAY
    Denny, is it safe to assume that you're not a fan of Lucas oil additive?
    Since I bought the '91 Dakota with 145 plus on the clock I've used that along with Castol high mileage 5W-30 oil. It's a 318 with TBI and at the present time I don't want to rebuild as the engine doesn't smoke and uses less than a quart between oil changes (300 miles). What would you recommend?
    We used the Lucas in every race engine we built up until last year.
    No problems.
    It really seemed to help our oil temp. more than anything else.

  6. #21
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Springfield
    Car Year, Make, Model: '66 Mustang, 76 Corvette
    Posts
    5,352

    Thanks for the reply Eric. I'd heard good things about Lucas, but had never used it before I bought the Dakota.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  7. #22
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Springfield
    Car Year, Make, Model: '66 Mustang, 76 Corvette
    Posts
    5,352

    Thanks, Denny.
    So far I've gotten the mileage to almost 17MPG which I think is pretty good for this truck.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  8. #23
    Crowbie's Avatar
    Crowbie is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Birmingham
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1966 Chevy Impala Sedan
    Posts
    121

    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW
    They are on my own good to use list. And, you have living proof it works. Keep using it.

    I try to use what works on a particular engine type. If the seat spring pressure is 115-150, a good quality oil will work great. As miles pile up, they need a little extra to keep going. I just feel that some additives are just a money catcher. There's just a handful that really do good things inside an engine.

    If you are going beyond the the normal range of engine building, with spring pressures exceeding 150-400 lbs, the normal range, by all means, use the slickest, toughest oil products you can find.
    Hey denny how do i found out what my seat pressure is? the only "pressure" numbers i can find on my valve train is just the spring rate of 417 lbs/in

    heres the springs that my cam calls for and currently using: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

    edit: Nevermind. i'm sturpid. hah summit also provides that information somewhre else: Seat Pressure at Installed Height (lbs) 105 lbs. LOL
    so i guess i'm not in that much need for mega-oil
    Last edited by Crowbie; 10-08-2006 at 10:37 AM.

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink