i have a 327 i have that i plan on puttin in an s10. Its a 250 horse motor but its bored .40 over with 350 300 horse heads. It is stock other wise. What internals and cam would i need to turn up some rpms and push my s10 down the road.
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i have a 327 i have that i plan on puttin in an s10. Its a 250 horse motor but its bored .40 over with 350 300 horse heads. It is stock other wise. What internals and cam would i need to turn up some rpms and push my s10 down the road.
if i'm not mistaken there's a post in here that i read that covers some of what you need to know about 283 cranks in the 327 block and they turn 10,000.
Is your block a SJ or a LJ 283 crank will only fit the Small Journal block and with 5.7" rods you will have a 302 but i dont know of a piston with the correct pin height maybe KBs.
That's 10,000 if you have all the goodies and far from stock parts..Quote:
Originally Posted by WRENCHD
Good 4340 lightweight crank,4340 h-beam rods,forged pistons,good valve springs,valves,retainers,locks.
Not a lot of stock block 327's are going to go 10,000 RPM and live long. The valves will float (if you're lucky) at about 7,000 and not allow the engine to rev anywhere near that high. It would seem a lot of the stories on these old 327's have been exaggerated by about 1,000 RPM everytime the story is told!!!! JMO, but it's probably going to take $10,000.00 to rev a sbc to 10,000 RPM and have any sort of reliability.Quote:
Originally Posted by WRENCHD
A more realistic consideration on a street engine is how much torque you can build at lower revs. Making big torque should be the consideraton on a street engine. The high winding engines work great on a road course with a 5 or 6 speed transmission in a light (under 3,000 lbs) car.....
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Originally Posted by erik erikson
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :rolleyes:
Just have some good closed chamber big valve heads with good springs and with a good mechanical cam and pistons, prefferably flat tops to give a dynamic compression ratio of 8.5 to one and thats all you need in the engine department. forget about a 10.000 rpm screamer, thats for the racing guys.
:HMMM: Hopefully those 300 HP 350 heads are closed chamber double bump heads.
some 461's or 462's will-work 194 1.6's 58-64 cc chambers
I don't think I would knock my-self out looking for casting's that are damn near 40 years old.Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
Plus you would have to change out all the valve seat's because they are not hardend,next thing you know you have more money in used heads when you could have bought new heads.
yeah ok..... what do i know. besides if it worked then its bound to work now! try finding a set of 186's lately? you cant, know why? people love them! and when you do find them they are $$$....................:rolleyes: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
:HMMM:Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
:HMMM: Better hang onto my 5 untouched sets then :D :D
....................:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :CRY: <insert foot in mouth>
With all the aftermarket heads available in most any flow configuration you want there isn't much reason to look at any production head at all,unless you can get them real cheap. Hank
I use double-hump heads on lots of engines, no hardened seats or exotic rebuilds. A good valve job and bolt 'em on. They run for years, then when the seats pound out, sell them to a rebuilder to put seats in them. They last as long as the rest of the GM hand grenade.
If they're just a bit worn, grinding 1.94/1.5 seats out to 2.02/1.60 valves gets another use out of them.
The one time I had seats installed, the inserts were rolling around in the back of the truck when I got home! Glad I didn't get that guy to assemble the heads, I'd have put them on before I realised he wasn't as good a machinist as everybody claimed.
Very well said.Quote:
Originally Posted by halftanked
At least someone got my point.
Why spend money on old heads un-less it is for a numbers matching deal.
well considering u can pick up 461 462 186 etc for a few hundred and then add oh say 6 for new stuff your in them 8 hundred i havent seen an alluminum set of heads go for no 800 bucks or less
You can buy World S/R Torquer cast iron heads all day assembled for less than $800.With 170 cc intake ports,2.02/1.6 valves screw-in studs and guide plates.They are new,flow better than the stock heads you have listed and are much stronger.Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
You can get into the aluminium Aussie heads assembled for $900 easy.
They come in sizes 190 to 210 cc.
Here is a brand new set of ali's for $459.00 buy now
Ebay item no 260035936389
Empty but they say they can supply valves and hardware for another $150.00
each or a set?
That is for a set.Do you still want to use your 35 year old castings??Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
yes. because i can still get them done cheaper :LOL:
Did anybody actually go to the ebay site to check on this deal ? The listing has closed but has reopened.
"Sometimes you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink"L.O.L.!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
....................................:LOL: but do they come with arp fasteners screw in studs guideplates?! :LOL:
I think you may have missed the point again.:whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
:LOL: i already got the point long ago start with a cheap base.......
That's great if you like building junk.Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
Had a look there at the site and from memory, they came with stainless valves, good springs and retainers, screw in studs and guide plates. All for an extra $150.00 on top of the purchase price. So that i figure would be $610.00 base for a complete set of heads plus freight plus tax. :cool:
i was referring to the cheap "new" heads :LOL not old ones:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
Now we are on the same page.Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
but can you truly trust these knock offs? will it truly flow as good as it says? kind alike those knock off intake manifolds that are horrible. i did hear that "EQ" had some good ones out.
many times you can pick up a set of 461's for next to nothing (there must be 2 dozen pairs laying around on the shelves at my work) and clean them up, bolt em on and they'll work for awhile and for 100 dollars or less, you'll probably use 2 or 3 sets in the entire time you own the car and get away cheaper than new heads. However, with the port technology and the newer designs, if you have the money, buy new heads all day long.
That goes back to my point of: Use what you can afford. If that is new parts, then buy new, if that is second hand or even third hand buy that. As long as they make the engine run how you want it to run, thats what matters.
You got any 186 SBC head castings there Hopper :D :D
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Originally Posted by Hopper111
exactly.:toocool:
Quote:
Originally Posted by southerner
:eek: :CRY: anyone ever seen finding nemo? my my MY MY MY mai!?