V8 Upgrade into a '53 Chevy Belair

(by mistake I did not start this as a new post, so I'm creating it right now. This is the beginning of the message thread):

This is the first post of the project. The Auto Shop class at a local high school here in Southern California needed a project to get the kids motivated. So we decided that I would purchase the required parts, and the kids would get experience on a car as a learning project. At the end, both of us would come out winners.

We have a '53 Chevy Belair which we decided to upgrade the engine. So I purchased a chevy 350 V8 late model engine ('80s) per their suggestion. Now we need some advice:

a. Which front end would fit the engine on the '53 belair frame?
b. Which engine mounts should I get?
c. Which transmission should I got, a turbo 350, or a R700, or something else?
d. Which tranny mounts?
e Which rear end should I For the front-end, should I go with a ford 9 inch, front/rear end etc.

We really could use any help you want to give us. THANKS!

CarlosV
carlosvillegas1@yahoo.com

(Mike P: responed this in the other thread I put there by mistake, so. So here's Mike P's respnse in this thread to make things a bit more organized. Sorry for the confusion):

Quote:

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Originally posted by Mike P
This should have likely been started as a separate post as your dealing with a car instead of a PU, but I'll give you my experience in building one of these several years ago for a customer.

For your front end, the Mustang II units work out pretty well, just make sure you get one from a good manufacture, not the cheapest one you can find (my customer went the low ball route, and spent more for me to get it to work right than it would have cost for a properly enginered one). To get the proper spring rate specify 78 Mustang II V8/AC (HD) springs, and if you want to lower it use dropped spindels. I would also recommend also upgrading the brakes from the 9" rotors that come standard in a lot of these kits. A new steering column will need to be added, (we used a generic GM tilt unit).

Motor mount perches were fabricated in house.

For exhaust, standard SB ramshorn manifolds or shorty headers seem to work well.

A TH350 worked well with no tunnel modifications necessary.

A 55-57 Chevy rear end was a bolt in.

Unless your a certified welder or know someone who is getting the front end under the car will likely be the most expensive part of the project but the drivability the new front end gives you will be well worth it.

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Hi Streets,

In the end, we want a functional car with an old look, but a new feel. The class is auto shop at a high school leve, it's a full auto shop inside the classroom. There's about 50 eagered kids to learn. They learn everything from basic power train rebuilding, to changing parts, to body work.

Currently the '53 has a 235 streight six. (I think it's 235!) with a powerglide automatic transmission. It's all original stuff. Also, the rearend is the original. I don't know, but I've been told that the original one has to go because the new engine (chevy 350 V8) will be way too powerfull for the 50 year old rear end.

We want to be able to drive it on the street and freeway!! We're not interested in making it a ¼ mile track car.

you mentioned:
>As far as the FE, what Mike says is true and I'd go with that >recommendation.. Brakes also.
So, there's a front end called "78 Mustang II V8/AC (HD) springs" or there are many of those to choose from. Mike's advice was to not get the cheapest, so which one is the cheapest to stay away from that?

As far as the engine mounts and transmission mounts, where can I find those, or are they included in the front end kit?

Thanks Streets.

CarlosV

Carlos,

My son in law has the exact car you are trying to build, 53 Chevy with 350 Chevy and Drivetrain. He elected to put a 71 Camaro subframe under the front of his, which made installing the 350 a bolt in. Even was able to use the Camaro tranny mount. In fact he bought a rolled Camaro and made it his doner car. From that car he got the subframe, motor, T350 trans and rear axle to replace the enclosed driveline that was in the 53. He has a 12 bolt rear end that will eventually replace the 10 bolt that came out of the Camaro when he gets around to it. It really has turned out well. The neat thing about it is you don't see that many 53-54 Chevy V8s around, but they are great looking cars. He has painted his yellow and has it lowered with 18" wheels and a nice rake. He also Chopped the top, filled the seam on the trunk, shaved everything and painted all the chrome to match the car, excepty the bumpers and tail lights. I'll get a picture and post it.

Good luck with your project, sounds like a fun one and a good learning experience for the kids

Pat

Here's a pic of Jeremy's '53. This was taken before he got the new wheels and tires. Hope the picture works

http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...t=1&thecat=500

While Pat's suggestions can be done, it might be a little much for a HS shop class to complete properly in 1 year. The main concerns in doing one of these is getting the subframe correctly squared and properly welded, plus the body mounting points will have to be fabricated to remount the front clip. It is not that big of a deal for someone with experience building hot rods, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it for a first timer.

Just a suggestion why not have the class also do the research for the project. While there is a lot of knowledge available on this site and others, most of the experienced rodders will tell you that before the first nut is turned on a project we spend a lot of time looking at what is available and figuring what needs to be done. A good start for your class would be picking up a copy Street Rodder Magazine and start checking out the suppliers and contacting them on whats available. A good field trip for the class might also be finding a GOOD hot rod shop locally and talking to them.

If I were developing the lesson plan for this class, it would go something like this.

1. Define the parameters of what the car is supposed to be when done, and how much you are able to spend. (you've pretty much did that in your last post).

2. Define what needs to be done to do that. (Determine the drive train; engine, transmission, rear end, suspension, brakes etc.

This is a good time to determine engine mods, gear ratios, parts availablility and cost of the componets etc. It's a good time to also determine cost effectiveness of using new parts or rebuilding used ones. A good example is the front end. Is it cheaper to buy new control arms, or find a good set of used ones and rebuild them with new ball joints and bushings? (Cleaning and rebuilding used parts is a good character builder :D .)

3. Lay out a plan of attack on what gets done first, second etc. (set specific/realistic goals on the progress for the project).



As far as the front end, there are several manufactures that make the componets necessary to use the front suspension pieces from a 74-78 Mustang II on earlier vehicles (most also usually have some type of engine mount kit also available). Again this is something to research prior to starting the project.

I may be mistaken, but I believe the '53 Chevy has an enclosed driveline, so that may be something that needs to be changed out no matter what, unless the driveline length can be kept exactly the same. Streets idea of building up the Blue Flame six has appeal though.

Pat

RB'sObsolete Automotive sells conversion motor mounts for a 350 in a 53 Chevy. www.rbsauto.com. They specialize in old Chevies and are the best source for hot rod parts for old Chevies.
If you use the Mustang front end I think you should use the heavy duty springs that mike suggested. The weight difference between the stock engine and the 350 is not the issue. It's the difference between the Mustang V8 and the 350 that needs to be considered. The front sheetmetal on the Chevy also weighs more than the Stang. The regular Mustang springs were for a four cylinder engine.
Check out the Pontiac Fiero front end. The front crossmember can be installed without all the welding and fabricating. I don't know if the springs are stiff enough for the 53 but a spring shop can twist up a pair of heavier springs for you if needed.
The 54 Chevy tail lights are a bolt on swap and are much better looking than the 53 lights. Extra grille teeth are all you need to make the front look like a custom car.
AL

Mike, Streets, Stu Cool (Pat), Al:

I want to thank you for your suggestions. I will disscuss all suggested options and comments with the Auto Shop Teacher and take it from there.

I will post pictures as soon as I can.

More to come...

CarlosV :whacked: