out comes the gear drive

i did 4 shows this weekend ,and pretty much kicked my but, not to mention that horrible wind from the gear drive that i thought was so cool....not! i drive my car to shows and about the farthest i drive is 60 miles one way. so i decided im going to take the gear drive out and put my double roller set up back in for some piece and quiet. also thinking about adding more cam, the came i have in er know is a lunati l00016, wich is a single pattern 218 @.50 and 458 lift 110 l/s how much more dur. can i go with 9.0:1 compression and 76cc heads hole shot 2400 converter 3.73 gears ? what would you guys run ,im thinking 230-236 @.050 also this motor has a one piece oil pan gasket can i remove the timing cover and install it with out dropping the pan

Here's the maximum cam I would run with your static compression ratio......http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

Give Steve a call at Lunati and ask about another cam. I think you can go a little better than you have now. Funny thing about the gear drive, huh? I hear that almost 100% of the time...but when the guys put them in, and we tell them not to cause they're gonna get tired of them, they get all defensive and tell us to pi** off, they know they will like them! Im going to print off your post and keep it for future gear drive fans! Im not familiar with the one piece pan gaskets, but I would think you can do it if you're careful, and clean every surface really good before you put it back together. Im a big block fan myself, but have done cam swaps no less than 6 times with the engine in the car, removing only the front cover, and never had an oil leak. Im not sure that it would work with a small block though. I do think others have done it however. John

Might be able to get the front cover off by loosening the front 3 or 4 pan bolts on each side...if you are VERY careful doing it. I usually install the two piece front covers on chebbie engines so cam changes can be done without messing with the oil pan.

hey tech do you know the lobe seperation on that cam? thanks dave , after i get it off im going to put a 2 piece cover on it , so i dont have to do that again

Yep, 114 for a strong vacuum signal and good mid to upper rpm pull. You have a loose converter, so bottom end power will not be a problem. The intake closing point on this cam will put you right at 8.0:1 DCR and should work real well with pump gas if you have a tight squish in the motor. If you want a little more bottom end and rump-rump in the motor, you could specify a cam with a shorter lobe center, but try to keep the intake closing point at about the same place as the cam I showed you.

1JohnnyO, he could very well use more cam in this motor, but efficiency and power will be down because of a mismatch. When I suggest a cam to someone, it is matched to the static compression ratio of their motor in order to provide maximum compatibility and power for the c.r. they are using. If you want more cam, then build more static c.r. into the motor when you are building it. THE STATIC C.R. AND THE INTAKE CLOSING POINT ON THE CAM MUST MATCH UP or you will end up with a weenie that either will not make power or one that detonates on pump gas.

how about this one tech? lunati 07101 single pattern 225@50 477 lift 108 ls 104 ic has a rad idle and ic 36.5

the front timing cover can come off some times with out dropping the pan and nip the timing cover rail that is on the inside bottom of the timing cover that holds the front pan seal lip .this is on each side up top at a 45 no more then 3/8 off each side

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Originally Posted by S19243H

how about this one tech? lunati 07101 single pattern 225@50 477 lift 108 ls 104 ic has a rad idle and ic 36.5

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Dynamic compression ratio will be 7.869:1 using 9.00:1 static compression ratio. Optimal DCR for pump gas is 8.00 to 8.25:1 and could be achieved by closing the intake a little sooner. Your choice.

I would not recommend a two-piece timing cover. They seal ok at first, but if you have to change cams they have a tendency to break the seal between the rear part and the block. I could not find a way to reseal mine. Ergo, oil leaks.

I took mine off and put a one-piece on. With a one-piece oil pan gasket, all you have to do is remove enough pan bolts to allow the oil pan to drop. Trim the sharp corners off the timing cover and slip it in. No leaks with a little care.

thanks for all the info ,i did keep the timing cover i had and shes all back together now