Thread: I burn oil
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05-13-2006 05:46 PM #1
I burn oil
I did a compression test on my engine today and i got 150-155 lbs of pressure all around on all cylinders all within range and I'm burning oil SOOO it seems that my valve guides are worn out
Does anyone have an idea how much replacing all the valve guides would cost for two heads? Like a good estimate.
I'm just deciding if repairing these will save money in contrast to buying some S/R Torquers.Last edited by Crowbie; 05-13-2006 at 05:59 PM.
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05-13-2006 06:04 PM #2
i get 5.00 for the manganese bronze guides and 5.00 to put each one inand you will need a valve job and yes knurling works to and it is cheaper
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05-13-2006 06:05 PM #3
you see. all those words you use was like speaking arabic. I know ZERO machine shop terms. except like. Valve Job.
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05-13-2006 06:09 PM #4
that means $160 for the guides installed plus the price of a valve job.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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05-13-2006 06:13 PM #5
nice
well a valve job costs 75$ for both heads.
Sooo
About 250 or 270 at my shop depending on prices. Now to see about porting those heads and running bigger valves at the local cylinder head shop.
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05-13-2006 06:14 PM #6
there is more than one way to fix this but the way i do them cost a bit more knurling them you do not remove the guides you run a tool down them and makes the guides bore smaller by moving the guide metal that makes a spiral grove and will hold oil and help a bit on wear and the seal i like are the new rigid chimney metal-clad they work geatLast edited by pat mccarthy; 05-13-2006 at 06:18 PM.
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05-13-2006 06:21 PM #7
75 for a valve job? that is cheap i get 120 for a good 3 angle
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05-13-2006 06:30 PM #8
yep thats how much it cost me last time. But apparently they didn't check the valve guides.. OR they were good at the time and they've just now crapped out on me >_>
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05-13-2006 06:37 PM #9
this is hard to say for me. but you get what you pay for? it would be hard to say what they did for you but. a good set of valve seals are 20 . so i do not see how they are making it
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05-13-2006 07:04 PM #10
Couldn't you still be burning oil around the rings even though the top ring has compression?
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05-13-2006 07:59 PM #11
seems to be the guides in my opinion.
how do i do a leak test anyways?
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05-14-2006 12:43 AM #12
Originally Posted by Crowbie
Last edited by thesals; 05-14-2006 at 10:29 AM.
just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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05-14-2006 02:52 PM #13
Okay heres the deal Its more than likely the heads because the motor has like 7k miles on it. the rings are new the pistons are new the heads didn't receive more than just a tanking and a valve job.
At first the heads were holding up and i burned ZERO oil now in the past few months its getting worse, i continuously take my plugs out and clean them off of burn oil.
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05-14-2006 03:20 PM #14
To be honest denny, I have no clue.
These were stock when I pulled them.
I'm just going to have to get them worked on so that I stop burning oil.
And what I tell the machinist is.. what? Replace my valve guides?
Or tell him the symptoms and he looks over it and does what is needed?
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05-13-2006 09:29 PM #15
What motor? vehicle? miles? if you had the heads off some vehicles is not much trouble to drop the pan and knock the pistons out for a rering. While your heads are already off.
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