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I did a compression test on my engine today and i got 150-155 lbs of pressure all around on all cylinders all within range and I'm burning oil SOOO it seems that my valve guides are worn out :CRY:
Does anyone have an idea how much replacing all the valve guides would cost for two heads? Like a good estimate.
I'm just deciding if repairing these will save money in contrast to buying some S/R Torquers.
i get 5.00 for the manganese bronze guides and 5.00 to put each one inand you will need a valve job and yes knurling works to and it is cheaper
you see. all those words you use was like speaking arabic. I know ZERO machine shop terms. except like. Valve Job.
that means $160 for the guides installed plus the price of a valve job.
nice
well a valve job costs 75$ for both heads.
Sooo
About 250 or 270 at my shop depending on prices. Now to see about porting those heads and running bigger valves at the local cylinder head shop. :D
there is more than one way to fix this but the way i do them cost a bit more knurling them you do not remove the guides you run a tool down them and makes the guides bore smaller by moving the guide metal that makes a spiral grove and will hold oil and help a bit on wear and the seal i like are the new rigid chimney metal-clad they work geat
75 for a valve job? that is cheap i get 120 for a good 3 angle
yep thats how much it cost me last time. But apparently they didn't check the valve guides.. OR they were good at the time and they've just now crapped out on me >_>
this is hard to say for me. but you get what you pay for? it would be hard to say what they did for you but. a good set of valve seals are 20 . so i do not see how they are making it
Couldn't you still be burning oil around the rings even though the top ring has compression?
seems to be the guides in my opinion.
how do i do a leak test anyways?
What motor? vehicle? miles? if you had the heads off some vehicles is not much trouble to drop the pan and knock the pistons out for a rering. While your heads are already off.
A buddy of mine has a small shop. he was changed a person oil every 3k miles with off brand oil. It was always about 1/2 qt low when it came in for oil change. it was somthing like a 96 or lincoln. After changing to Motorcraft 5w-20 it has not used any oil since. It comes back in every 3k miles on the full mark. Coensidence or oil????????????????????????
you need to borrow/rent/buy a cylinder leakage test gauge.... screws in like a compression checker but its got 2 gauges on it and a connector for an air compressor..... bring cylinder to TDC, hook up air, the one gauge will show you how many PSI and the other will tell you what percentage is leaking..... 15% is considerded safe on a cold motor as standard ring leak, more means you got something that should be fixed, and even more means you better fix it now..... you check the obvious spots for where the leaking is coming from.... exhaust pipe for exhaust valves, carb for intake valves, crank case for rings, bubbles in radiator for head gasket, and of course my favorite... neighboring cylinders for complete engine deathQuote:
Originally Posted by Crowbie
Okay heres the deal Its more than likely the heads because the motor has like 7k miles on it. the rings are new the pistons are new the heads didn't receive more than just a tanking and a valve job.
At first the heads were holding up and i burned ZERO oil now in the past few months its getting worse, i continuously take my plugs out and clean them off of burn oil.
To be honest denny, I have no clue.
These were stock when I pulled them.
I'm just going to have to get them worked on so that I stop burning oil.
And what I tell the machinist is.. what? Replace my valve guides?
Or tell him the symptoms and he looks over it and does what is needed?
Denny, you rock. I'll just print out those instructions and be like
Um. Do this. *hands him the paper* :LOL:
Again thank you Denny, I think I'll just keep my heads and keep the S/R torquers as an option in the future. I've got some body work to do this summer anyways.
Thanks a whole bunch =)
With 7K miles maybe your rings did not or have not yet seated. Was it bored or did you just put new rings in an old bore? If it was fine at first and then got worse like you said i don't see how it could be the valve seats. I'd still say it was the rings, especially if it was not bored.
sounds like valve seals to me, any chance you got oil at the filler cap? thats always a good sign of bad valve seals/guides when you've got baffled valve covers
Chevy 355 Small Block, Has nickel in the block, was made in mexico, crate motor replacement for an '84 corvette.Quote:
Originally Posted by chevydrivin
And the weird thing about it was this oil pan that I just replaced, check out the oil pan gasket!
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...l/os34510t.jpg
Thats right! TWO dipstick locations. Talk about a pain in the ass to find an oil pan :(
bored it out .03, put in a new crank, new pistons, new rings (rings and pistons obviously bought for a .03 bored block), new everything but i neglected the heads, or they were decent enough in the eyes of the machine shop and thought they were okay at the time.
Would blowing out a lifter cause valve guide wear? Possibly due to overtightening about a quarter turn more than I should have. I like to set my valve lash with the motor running. And I know I'm going to catch hell from all of you. "NO, BAD CROWBIE, BAD. *WHAP*"
Oh well. I have a tendency to learn the hard way :p
If you mean I have oil on my valve covers and some in the valve cover breather, YEAH. And it seems to be making its way outside on the valve cover with the pcv valve. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by thesals
Oh baffled. you mean that thing inside the valve covers that is SUPPOSED to block oil coming out of the valve cover at the breather ? Yeah I've got'em. My edelbrock valve covers USED to be clean.. =\
yup thats a valve guide/seal problem then, some cylinder pressure is comind right up thru the valves, which causes enough pressure to blow oil up thru the breather and pcv even with the baffles in place