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Thread: compression/HP change calculation
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    shevy not heme's Avatar
    shevy not heme is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Oct 2005
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    Columbus
    Car Year, Make, Model: 78 F-100 & 85 S10
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    Blind figures right now Techinspector1,the pistons are in the mail to me so I,like other hotrodders like to set around and 2nd guess myself.When guys are building hotrods we are like women window shopping or catalog shopping you ever notice that?
    bobscogin,,,that was my point earlier,alot of money for a few horsepower,just to increase one point.
    Denny,,,if I could find a file big enough and straight enough I would.Seriously I probably should have the block decked .020 or more and go with a 'safer' head gasket.
    Less than 9:1 compression with 58cc combustion chambers and a .016 gasket seems should have got a caddy motor or a hotrod lincoln.
    Hey has that thing gotta Heme in it? No, it's a shevy not heme!

  2. #2
    shevy not heme's Avatar
    shevy not heme is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 78 F-100 & 85 S10
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    Thanks Denny and I agree because all I was hoping for was around 280+HP.
    But I am contemplating doing more to the top-end of the motor next year,different cam and heads and may wish I had got more compression while I had it tore down.But you may have a point there because it's going in a little s10 truck and with the right converter, gears and traction may be as quick as I'd like.280+ HP shouldn't be asking to much from a .060 over 283?
    Hey has that thing gotta Heme in it? No, it's a shevy not heme!

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    shevy, 280 hp from a 283 is, in my opinion, very ambitious. At the pinnacle of their development, 283's made 270 hp with 2-4 bbls and 283 hp with Rochester fuel injection. This was done with 11.0:1 SCR and a very large cam.

    Don't worry about hp right now. Just get the pistons in your hands, take the block and pistons to the machine shop, have the block bored and honed, rods resized and piston hung on rods. Then put rod/piston assemblies (without rings) into cylinders 1,2,7 and 8. Using a dial indicator to find TDC and a depth gauge to check deck, find out what the deck height is on each corner. Gauge each piston at the 3 O'clock position, not at noon or 6 PM as you're standing at the side of the block. Write down each measurement, then publish all the info on here and let all us gearheads get our heads together as to the best way to proceed at that point.

    IF YOU HAVE NOT PURCHASED THE CAM YET, DO NOT. IT SHOULD BE THE LAST THING YOU BUY FOR THE MOTOR AND WILL SET YOUR DCR.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

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