need some 307 info

ok folks dont laff too hard, but, I have a 307 out of a 68 belair that is in factory specs, so I can use a standard re-ring kit on it. BUT my question is this, what late model (stock type) heads would be the best to use on this motor. Its going to be put together basicly stock w/even the 2 barrel carb and air cleaner. I want to be able to use later model brackets on it for the alt, P/S & A/C stuff... I have heard to take a 350 head & have it milled down to get the correct CC for the motor & have been told to STAY AWAY from 305 heads, so can someone point me in the correct direction cause I dont want to spend money on stuff I dont need or cant use........... if ya just gotta know, yes it's going in the studebaker for now. since the stock studey motor is a HUGEEEEE paper weight right now :CRY: :CRY: its frozen solid & wont turn and it would be cheaper for now to just SBC the studey untill the kid can afford to rebuild the stock motor, which he wants to do..............thanks for any info.........joe

Joe, is the main reason you want to change heads just to get the front mounting bosses? Also, for most of the later model brackets to work, you'll need to use the "long" water pump, make sure that will fit before you commit.

Re: the Stude engine. Paint it shiney aluminum color and make a coffe table out of it. Post a picture of it so you can drive Brent nuts. hehehe

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Originally posted by Bob Parmenter
Joe, is the main reason you want to change heads just to get the front mounting bosses?
yep thats the reason why.

Also, for most of the later model brackets to work, you'll need to use the "long" water pump, make sure that will fit before you commit.
that shouldnt be a problem, WILL IT??? since most likely we'll run a serpentine belt set up & an electric fan .

Re: the Stude engine. Paint it shiney aluminum color and make a coffe table out of it. Post a picture of it so you can drive Brent nuts. hehehe
I dont know about that, he may get jealous that he doesnt have one, & I think the wife would kick my ass if I tried to bring it in to the house . :whacked: :whacked:

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Originally posted by Streets Joe: Whats wrong with the 307 in it's stock form now?? It's a Chevy 307 ain't it and not the 307 Olds right???
yep its a stock chevy 307, the motor came out of my 68 belair and it had a blown head gasket when I bought it & the car sat for about 15yrs, but also its in perfect factory specs & you can tell that there is no wear what so ever in the cylinders. I'm going to have the block checked just to be sure its a GOOD Block but want to be able to run the later model accessory brackets like the serpentine belt set up.I have also been told the 307 heads have hot spots so I figgered the best thing would be to use later model stuff because of that & the harder valve seats, so unless someone can tell me something different. so what do you folks think would be the best thing to do w/thing motor, and dont get funny w/me either guys .

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:whacked: :whacked: :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: ...............joe

The 307 in my 69 camaro (i beleive to be origonal, no vin stamp, but date codes and app codes all point it to being origona to the car)

Has 70cc heads- which should put it around 9.5 compression- If you were to stick a set of the new Iron vortech heads w/ 64cc chambers you would get the comp up to 10.1-10.5.1 and it would really wake the motor up, although you would really have to use 92 octane gas... :)

the 305 heads are 58cc- and your compression would throw your compression up around 13.1 which would suck unless you happen to have an unlimited supply of race fuel around :) Thats why people say to stay away from them... ;)

Those new iron vortechs are great street heads, have all the acc brackets, and can be had brand new completly assembled for about $450... Only sucky thing about them is you need to get the vortech specific intake manifold for them, although if you are still running the origonal Cast iron one, getting a new aluminum one would be a good step anyway. :cool:

If it were me(and it kinda is, since i will be doing the same thing with my 307 next spring :D ) I would tear it apart, make sure the bottom end is solid (maybe get ARP main studs installed while its apart for inspection) Do a stock rebuild on it- and put in a mild cam like a comp xe258 or xe262, put on a 4bbl, and run it. Should be good for about 250-275hp which is pretty good for a 210hp stock rated motor.

Thats my thoughts anyway, hope this helps! :)
Ben

Joe, I have no idea if it will be a problem or not. Maybe Dean (Weeg) has a quick answer when he sees this. That's why I suggest you do a thorough job of measuring beforehand. Your 307 should be equipped with a short pump if it's factory original. The long pump, used from '69 on, is 1 3/8" longer. Doesn't sound like much, but it could make a difference. Preplanning will minimize chances of having to scramble later to figure out a solution to improper location (no personal shot intended there, just a reference). As an example, if you go for a long pump (serpentine or not), and you end up with insufficient clearance for a fan on the back of the radiator, you might make the compromise of putting an electric fan on the front of the radiator. Then, you could end up with a cooling problem that you spend all kinds of time and money on trying to solve.

Just giving you some things to think about.

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Originally posted by Bob Parmenter

Just giving you some things to think about.

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well thats why i'm asking questions FIRST, cause we all know how PO'd we'd be if we bought something & it didnt fit or work correctly..........thanks for the help so far folks..........joe

It's official Streets is back to "normal"**) **) **)

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Originally posted by TooMany2count
the stock studey motor is a HUGEEEEE paper weight right now :CRY: :CRY: its frozen solid & wont turn and it would be cheaper for now to just SBC the studey untill the kid can afford to rebuild the stock motor, which he wants to do..............thanks for any info.........joe

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My family and I try something and it consistently works to get engines unstuck unless they are locked up from a busted rod. We just got a caddy 500 unstuck this way. It works better than diesel. Take all the plugs out. Mix up a batch of 50/50 WD40 and Kroil. Pour a good amount in each cylinder and let it set. You might try keeping the engine inside or at least covering it up if it lives outside (My uncle figured this one out the hard way). Come back after a day or so and try to twist the crank. It should work. Kroil is made by Kano Labs. You can order it over the phone, or over the internet if you don't already have it. The stuff is good for everything.

307 brings back some memories, I used to bore them out to 4" (used std. pistons) and make them a one time 327 or 350 depending on the crank you use. When it wears out just pitch it. Kinda a poor mans engine. Seemed I always had some used std. pistons laying around.:3dSMILE:

Alan