how much power should my combo make?

I'm putting this engine in my 2000 s-10...

95 350 bored 30 over
speed pro flat tops 10.5:1
stock rods resized with arp bolts
stock crank turned
RHS 2.02 1.60 iron heads
professional products crosswind intake
224/224 @ 50 480/480 lift cam I think it's 108 degree lobe seperation
holly 750 cfm
accel hei distributor/coil/wires
hedman shorty headers
flowmaster 2 1/2" 40 series mufflers

How much hp should this setup make? Is this a good cam? The engine builder picked it out....I told him I wanted a rough idle but I'm not sure this is the right cam.
Thanks:)

someone could probably get you a closer estimate with the complete cam figures and maybe a part number or some flow numbers for those heads... but from what I came up w/ in dyno2000... about 370hp

complete cam figures? I thought I posted everything?
I wanted to get around 400-425hp, am I expecting to much out of these parts?

Actually, you're expecting a lot out of 350 inches. Your parts look good but to get 425 HP from 350ci means you'll have to spin it harder. 224 degrees will run out @ about 5500 rpm's. If those are the RHS 200's, they will support more rpm's and be able to take advantage of more cam. Just be realistic about your intended usage of the vehicle and the idle quality. I would get a stroker crank(they're cheap nowadays). 425 HP from 383ci is much easier without needing so many rpm's.

Not a lot of reason to guess on horsepower. Get the engine in the truck and take it to someone and put it on their chassis dyno, tune it and maximize the horsepower. Last week we spent $135 for 5 pulls on the chassis dyno. Tuned and tweaked the stock bore, aluminum head 460 to 500 horse, 500 torque. The dyno time was the best money spent on the car. It would take 10 or 15 passes at the dragstrip to get the tuneup this close.....

Be realistic with your 350 expectations is the best advice here. Big cubes with low rpm and hi torque is the key to street performance on a budget....

anybody have a cam recomendation? I think I messed up telling the engine builder this was going in a daily driver, I mean what I want isn't what most would consider as daily transportation. I'm not worried about vaccum since I bought a hydroboost setup for my brakes and I wanted a rough racey idle from the begining. The is a tech tip in the scoggin dickey catalog about picking the right cam, it say for my compression the cam should have 235-245 duration @ .050 with a 2500 stall and 3.73 gears so my 224 is a little small right? I was looking at the comp magnum 286H part # cc12-326-4 it's 236/236 @ .050 490/490 lift 110 lobe seperation 2200-6200rpm range would that be a better cam....more like I want?

Number 1, check the flow numbers on your heads. Single pattern cams are passe` nowadays. Number 2, when you widen the lobe separation angle, you will lose torque below 3500 and about 5% overall on average. Cam companies routinely sell wide LSA's as a compromise for street manners. 236 degrees is about where you want to be. Have you looked into a stroker crank or is it too late?

well I took the block and heads back to the builder today after painting them:) I told him the cam he chose wasn't exactly what I wanted. I showed him the numbers on two cams from comp that I thought might work better....
comp magnum 286H and 280H I liked the 286 best, 236/236 490/490 110

After looking at the numbers he said maybe this cam would be a good in between: comp XE274 230/236 487/490 110
He said it would have the racey idle I want and make power from 1800-6000 or 6200 even
Anybody use this cam before? I think it will be alot better than the 224/224 he picked first but is it going to make me happy when I first hear it fire up? lol
On the comp cams website they have a sound clip of a 292 cam I think and it sounds really good:) I want as close to that as I can get

Thanks for the help everybody

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cutlass389

Number 1, check the flow numbers on your heads. Single pattern cams are passe` nowadays. Number 2, when you widen the lobe separation angle, you will lose torque below 3500 and about 5% overall on average. Cam companies routinely sell wide LSA's as a compromise for street manners. 236 degrees is about where you want to be. Have you looked into a stroker crank or is it too late?

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yeah it's too late for the stroker, I wanted to go with that to begin with but couldn't afford the extra cost....stroker kit/machine work

I'm pretty sure this engine will have more power than I need anyway, I just want it to sound good too. This is my first performance engine so maybe next time I will go a little bigger;)

I have a 98 f-150 with suicide doors/ bodydrop/ all shaved that has the 4.2L v6 in it....and I have a 391fe truck engine sitting in my shop so I might build that one up and stick it in the f150 later on.

here is my setup

350 .060 over, 4-bolt mains
Stock crank
Flattop pistons 14cc reliefs
64cc chamber 2.02/160 170cc runner cast heads with a little work
Edlebrock Performer RPM intake
Holley 650 DualFeed
Lunati 60102 VooDoo cam 219/227 .468/489 112 lsa
BorgWarner Super t-10 4-speed, 3.73 posi rear
Flowtech Headers, 2.5inch exhaust with Flowmaster Delta Force 40 2chambers that stop just before the rearend.

Here is a video of how it sounds, idle is still a tad high *900-100 rpm*, on a cold day its idles at 650-700 and sounds great, theres a little distortion because of the camera i used but this car sounds awesome, a little loud so the neighbors hate me ;p

http://www.filefactory.com/?d95f80

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HellCaminoKid

here is my setup

350 .060 over, 4-bolt mains
Stock crank
Flattop pistons 14cc reliefs
64cc chamber 2.02/160 170cc runner cast heads with a little work
Edlebrock Performer RPM intake
Holley 650 DualFeed
Lunati 60102 VooDoo cam 219/227 .468/489 112 lsa
BorgWarner Super t-10 4-speed, 3.73 posi rear
Flowtech Headers, 2.5inch exhaust with Flowmaster Delta Force 40 2chambers that stop just before the rearend.

Here is a video of how it sounds, idle is still a tad high *900-100 rpm*, on a cold day its idles at 650-700 and sounds great, theres a little distortion because of the camera i used but this car sounds awesome, a little loud so the neighbors hate me ;p

http://www.filefactory.com/?d95f80

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Cool, that sounds great:) The cam I'm going with should be a little rougher than that since it's 230/236 487/490 110 lsa so I should be happy with it. Thanks for the clip! by the way what's your compression? Have you ran it at the track yet?

10.77:1, planning on running it at least once this summer.... its a daily driver so I try not to break it to often. car has awesome torque.... scrapped two posi units already.... finallly broke down and had something built for it.

cool
what octane gas do you have to run in that?

well i tried straight 93... get pretty bad detonation after shutting it off... runs fine with 94 and great with 94 + Formula104 Octane boost

Will the above setup with the XE274 work good with my T-56 6 speed? I have no idea how that works out....I mean in an auto you get a bigger stall so in a standard do you have to slip it alot to take off normal?

I suggest you get pretty stout pressure plate and clutch disc and a scattershield. Clutches have a nasty habit of blowing and without protection they can do a lot of damage, like taking part of your foot off.

:HMMM: that wouldn't be very fun

Anybody know where I can get a good clutch for less that $450? The ones I have found were really expensive.

Could I just run the stock clutch for now and be ok as long as I don't race it or rev really high? What exactly causes them to blow...the pressure or the rpm's?

Thanks for the help:)

Uhhh.......Can you get your feet or legs replaced for less than $450???

One mistake could be with you the rest of your life. Also, what's cheaper? Buying what you need the first time, or buying something a few bucks cheaper and then buying what you need later? Opt for safety, even if it hurts your wallet.

Oldman2

What used to be is no more, and probably never was.

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Originally Posted by oldman2

Uhhh.......Can you get your feet or legs replaced for less than $450???

One mistake could be with you the rest of your life. Also, what's cheaper? Buying what you need the first time, or buying something a few bucks cheaper and then buying what you need later? Opt for safety, even if it hurts your wallet.

Oldman2

What used to be is no more, and probably never was.

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lol yeah that's true
I might be able to get a wooden peg leg for less than $450 but I probably wouldn't like it:LOL:

Aye, matey. Along with an eyepatch and a parrot. And what if you get termites?

Oldman2

I'll second that!!! NHRA and all the other sanctioning bodies are more than justified in mandating scattershields in all manual trans cars and sheilds on the automatics!!! I run sticks in everything I build for myself, everyone of them has had a scattersheild!!! Cheap insurance IMO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I'll second that!!! NHRA and all the other sanctioning bodies are more than justified in mandating scattershields in all manual trans cars and sheilds on the automatics!!! I run sticks in everything I build for myself, everyone of them has had a scattersheild!!! Cheap insurance IMO.

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Absolutely, positively has to be there Dave.....